Members RichardJ Posted February 2 Members Report Posted February 2 Got a heavy duty harness leather work belt recently which uses copper rivets. I’m a very sweaty person and work in construction wearing this belt 5-6 days/week. I'm wondering what methods are best to prevent the rate at which they oxidize? I’ve seen a few pictures of older belts with copper rivets that have a significant amount of green around the rivets. Not really a huge issue as it’s a work belt, but I’d prefer if I could significantly reduce it somehow. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted February 3 Contributing Member Report Posted February 3 (edited) You can get a special clear lacquer coating to paint or dip copper or brass. Its a cellulose lacquer. I used to use a lot of it on the brass fittings on my medieval shields so it stands up to use well, but if you use a wire scrubber it will come off I can't remember the name right now. If I find out I'll edit this Edit; Its called 'Rustins Metal Lacquer' [ who would have guessed it? ] https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustins-Metal-Lacquer-Clear-RUSCML125/dp/B07DF7F2ZZ?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2UE65O1XILPTJ&gQT=1 btw, a thot; you'll have diffs coating the attached rivets where they meet the leather. That part will still oxidize and stain the leather. Unless you are prepared to remove them, coat them and replace them or new ones Edited February 3 by fredk Quote
Members RichardJ Posted February 3 Author Members Report Posted February 3 Thanks I’ll give this a look. I read somewhere that clear nail polish is another short term solution. Using a metal wire brush is another option but I fear I’d damage the leather quite a bit using that method. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted February 3 Contributing Member Report Posted February 3 Clear nail varnish will work, but its short-term. Its not as tough as the Rustins and will wear off after a short time Quote
Members RichardJ Posted February 3 Author Members Report Posted February 3 59 minutes ago, fredk said: Clear nail varnish will work, but its short-term. Its not as tough as the Rustins and will wear off after a short time Unfortunately I’m in Canada and can’t seem to find it. I’ll keep searching as the belt is still new and I shouldn’t have to worry about oxidation just yet. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted February 3 Contributing Member Report Posted February 3 The Rustins you mean? That link was for Amazon UK but it should be on your Amazon. Or ebay, or your general hardware store - its used a lot on the brass fittings on doors Quote
Members Digit Posted February 3 Members Report Posted February 3 I've got a similar issue with an old piece of riveted leather. In the past I've tried to scrape off that sticky green stuff, but it keeps coming back. Since recently I have a spindle press for setting rivets, so I'd like to replace all the nickel-plated brass rivets with new ones (either nickel-plated brass again or nickle-plated iron, wdyt?). What's the best way to remove rivets? Drill through them? (I do have a press drill). Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 3 Members Report Posted February 3 Anyway you can cut the mushroomed peg without heating up the copper. Copper makes an excellent heat sink. Heat up one side and the temperature will travel through the entire piece. As the green corrosion. Clean it with a tooth brush. Sealing the leather before installing the rivet should help. Using brass is another. However, consider the green corrosion as an indicator of the age of the item. Every copper rivet I've ever set, gets the green corrosion. It's just the nature of copper. Quote
Members Beehive Posted February 3 Members Report Posted February 3 Have any of you guys nickel plated? You can get pure nickel off of Amazon. Using a phone charger, vinegar. I've plated a few things, mostly gun parts. The home brew electrolyte won't produce the gloss nickel. It'll come out matte. Brownells Electroless Nickel Plating is a product you might consider. They also sell nickel, "brightener". Which produces the bright and shiny nickel. Quote
Members RichardJ Posted February 3 Author Members Report Posted February 3 18 hours ago, fredk said: The Rustins you mean? That link was for Amazon UK but it should be on your Amazon. Or ebay, or your general hardware store - its used a lot on the brass fittings on doors I checked but it says unavailable with no work on when it will be restocked. I see many other Rustins products but no metal lacquer. Quote
Contributing Member fredk Posted February 4 Contributing Member Report Posted February 4 That is unfortunate. Try using a good brass cleaner [I use stuff called 'Brasso'] first, clean that off with a clean cloth then coat it with clear nail lacquer. But make sure its the old style lacquer which smells, its mostly been replaced by an acrylic lacquer with no or little smell. That will do you for a while Quote
Members Beehive Posted Friday at 05:44 PM Members Report Posted Friday at 05:44 PM I've been looking for some lacquer paint to coat some old conchos. The original finish has worn off. These are silver plated brass. I want to prevent tarnish. Airbrush? Nope. Most are watered based. I'm looking for the real deal, you could paint an old car, single coat, clear lacquer. I wasn't looking forward to having to clean my airbrush with lacquer thinner. If you've never experienced lacquer thinner. Let's say it has a serious industrial overtone. Looks like I'm going with model car paint. Comes in a small spray can. The issue with using something like Simichrome to polished mounted conchos or rivets. Is the black residue it leaves behind. Black smudge that will not be able to cleaned from the surrounding leather. Quote
Northmount Posted Friday at 10:45 PM Report Posted Friday at 10:45 PM 4 hours ago, Beehive said: I've been looking for some lacquer paint to coat some old conchos. Try the finishes (paint) area of your local hardware store. I've found lacquer (real stuff) in spray cans. You can go to automotive suppliers and find automotive lacquer. Some places will load it into spray cans. Quote
Members Beehive Posted Friday at 10:51 PM Members Report Posted Friday at 10:51 PM Just now, Northmount said: Try the finishes (paint) area of your local hardware store. I've found lacquer (real stuff) in spray cans. You can go to automotive suppliers and find automotive lacquer. Some places will load it into spray cans. The model paint surprised me in general. I've used the enamel and I don't know what they do but it's better then the big spray cans. Sprays finer also. You gotta wonder why they want $10 for a tiny can of it. Not offering big cans. I wouldn't think a person would need that level of durability on a plastic model car but I guess they do. I'm also contemplating sacrificing a one ounce silver slug coin and start plating copper rivets. I have nickel anodes but trying silver would make it fun. Quote
Members RichardJ Posted Friday at 11:35 PM Author Members Report Posted Friday at 11:35 PM 49 minutes ago, Northmount said: Try the finishes (paint) area of your local hardware store. I've found lacquer (real stuff) in spray cans. You can go to automotive suppliers and find automotive lacquer. Some places will load it into spray cans. I’ll most likely end up doing this. I didn’t want to buy a can but it seems to be all that’s available around me. I’ll just do it, I guess it doesn’t make a big difference as I can stray it into a container and use a paint brush to apply it. Quote
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