Binding with a right angle binder on a walking foot machine

[kgg]

1 hour ago, Dave9111 said:

In the picture, is that a 335 or 246 style cylinder bed machine?  

That is a very early mini table top attachment on a Kobe LS-1341 which in reality is a Juki LS-341 clone like the Techsew 2750. I have various setups of small table top attachments. Depends on what I am binding on which machine and how much tape I need.

Photo 1 shows a platter, tape guide and a micro binder nose attachment on a Kobe LS-1341

Photo 2 shows is a better view of the micro binder nose attachment

Photo 3 shows a mini table top attachment on Techsew 2750 Pro with a multi purpose tape guide / tape dispenser / tape tensioner.

Photo 4 shows a mini table top attachment on Class 441 clone that has width guides on the table top and a multi purpose tape guide / tape dispenser / tape tensioner.

2 hours ago, Dave9111 said:

Is there an advantage when using it with mostly flatwork as well? 

If it is flatwork the flatbed machines are a better choice most times. I was probably just lazy and didn't want to setup a flatbed machine to do one item.

kgg

 

[Dave9111]

Thanks for the pictures and explanations.

Very nice!

Ive never seen a tape guide, and tape tensioner like that?  Where do you buy things like that.

 

 

 

[Dave9111]

I finally received some 3/4" milspec 4088 herringbone binding I bought off ebay.  Usps ground now takes 10 days to get from CA to IN.  I have a real binding platter I purchased off Amazon for $14.  It has a roller bearing in a plastic disk.  It spins on a stainless steel tube.  Very little friction.  Pretty good for $14.  The disk was a bit small so I made a larger disk out of 1/8" masonite which can lay on the smaller disk.  It works fine, spins freely.  I setup the synchronized binder on the 1245 with a 3/4" folding head, which was about $10 off Ebay and wow!  I feel like Im cheating!  It just works.   Binding with this setup is easy.  I tried binding around some 2" inside and outside radius' and it was no big deal.  And the stitching stayed in the right place on the tape while making the turns.   I thought the 3/4" tape might be a challenge.  Nope.  😃

[kgg]

22 minutes ago, Dave9111 said:

I thought the 3/4" tape might be a challenge.

Half decent equipment can make all the difference.

kgg

[nylonRigging]

9 hours ago, Dave9111 said:

 I thought the 3/4" tape might be a challenge.  Nope.  😃

You can challenge yourself o do better.. LOL... now take 3/4" and turn multiple 90 deg. corners around object, were both sides must be finish look .. Then do same with double needle.
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[Dave9111]

Yes, proper equipment is needed!  

Ill have to try binding a square with 3/4".  Now Im curious if I can do that!  

But I dont know if I want to setup my twin needle machine for binding.  It has 1/4" gauge.  And the existing feet wont work at all. Although it does look nice.  😀

Thanks!  

[nylonRigging]

23 hours ago, Dave9111 said:

Yes, proper equipment is needed!  

Ill have to try binding a square with 3/4".  Now Im curious if I can do that!  

But I dont know if I want to setup my twin needle machine for binding.  It has 1/4" gauge.  And the existing feet wont work at all. Although it does look nice.  😀

Thanks!  

 

Ya, you need to swap-out your 1/4" , to a ( 3/16")  gauge needle setup for 3/4". But it pretty easy to do, if you ever decide to do it . Double-needle does look good though, It presents itself well in trimming out items with the 3/4" on raw exposed edges, pockets and things . So... I just planting the seed now in back of your Brain ...LOL

Even the old Singer 112/212  'needle feeds' are pretty common, easy to find, and a lot of people overlook them in searching out a compound feed, Needle-Gauge sets are common found, and cheep for them. Just grab an old 112/212 when you run across one. Clean it up, set it up with a Raw-Edge 3/4" binder .

The old Needle-feed Singers do a Very Nice job with both fabric and Leather. People really overlook them and never give them enough credit over compound feed with Leather. BUT they do an outstanding job .

Here a good example in Pic. using needle-feed machine binding edge on leather.  I just cut a scrap strip off 3/4", off some nice soft supple black leather, and threw it under one of my Needle-Feeds set-up for 3/4 raw edge binding . Also trimmed same cut of Black with some raw-edge Nylon grosgrain 3/4" .
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Edited March 26 by nylonRigging

[Dave9111]

Thanks nylonRigging.  That does look really nice.

[Dave9111]

Hi Guys, so binding has been going fine on my Pfaff 1245 with the synchronized binder.

Most of the things I work on are larger.   A 24" x 12" cover is small.  My Dad had a need for a small pouch he could wear on his belt.  The pouch is only about 5 inches long by 3 inches tall.  Really small for me.  I made a couple, each time with improvements.  I decided to bind the edges with 3/4" nylon 4088 tape.  

That went fine.  But then I realized I didnt have a great way to finish the binding.  I usually just run the binding over the beginning of the tape, then run it off the edge.   Then burn/melt the tail off with a hot knife.    

Is there a better way?   My crude method looks crude when done on a small piece.  

What fo you guys do?  

Small stuff is hard! 

[nylonRigging]

7 hours ago, Dave9111 said:

Hi Guys, so binding has been going fine on my Pfaff 1245 with the synchronized binder.

Most of the things I work on are larger.   A 24" x 12" cover is small.  My Dad had a need for a small pouch he could wear on his belt.  The pouch is only about 5 inches long by 3 inches tall.  Really small for me.  I made a couple, each time with improvements.  I decided to bind the edges with 3/4" nylon 4088 tape.  

That went fine.  But then I realized I didnt have a great way to finish the binding.  I usually just run the binding over the beginning of the tape, then run it off the edge.   Then burn/melt the tail off with a hot knife.    

Is there a better way?   My crude method looks crude when done on a small piece.  

What fo you guys do?  

Small stuff is hard! 

I grabbed some scrap and did a few quick and dirty finish on 3/4" tape ending for example with folding pieces of 1-k cordura . and there probably other techniques also.
You can just Hot Knife, cut . . You can do a double-back fold, and do a quick little zigzag or bar-tack . . you can do an inward 'tuck' fold finish .

The double-fold over, and tack is pretty self-explanatory for a finish on the tail-end .
Hot Knife, cut-off takes a little practice to make look clean, and also a good seal/melt . Also Nylon hot knifes different than if you using Polyester. Polyester binding. You can make both look good, but they melt/act a little differently. Personally I think nylon cuts melts nicer.

The inward tuck fold on the finish. That is used a lot with ending finish. Also on binding where you bind a circumference and finish off running on top your starting point.
There a couple ways you can do it, and there is some technique involved that takes a little practice . Main thing is you have to stop the binding a couple inches from the finish. leave the Needle or Needles in the plunge holding down the material . Then slide or fold back you binding Folder out of the way, and cut the binding leaving some binding to work with for making the fold-tuck. Then just sew the finish without using the Folder.
Also there couple ways to work the binding with your under-tucking . You can just fold it as is, and fold inward. Or you can do a 'split' center-lengthwise in the tailing piece your tucking . 
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