Sharp needles not always good

[RockyAussie]

In the past I have sometimes polished the tips of my needles to not be so sharp to help stop them cutting threads so much when back stitching or going over threads already in place. On this particular job I was aiming to make a belt that could be worn both inside and out so I wanted to be sure to have a needle sharp enough to not pucker on the bobbin side. The stitching was done on my Cowboy 4500 with a new 160/23 LR Schmitz needle and 138 poly bonded thread. The stitching went very well all the way from the start up to the last four stitches. This resulted in 3 different threads being cut right through as shown in the pics below. My Cowboy machine knows a few new #%^& words now and like my machine I just never stop learning.

I started the stitching at the top of this join went around until I got to the bottom to over stitch and the swearing began.

Double needles needed to fix

came out alright in the end.

[kgg]

40 minutes ago, RockyAussie said:

My Cowboy machine knows a few new #%^& words now and like my machine I just never stop learning.

I feel your pain. Interesting design so the belt is now multilingual.

kgg

[Wizcrafts]

4 hours ago, RockyAussie said:

The stitching was done on my Cowboy 4500 with a new 160/23 LR Schmitz needle and 138 poly bonded thread. The stitching went very well all the way from the start up to the last four stitches. This resulted in 3 different threads being cut right through as shown in the pics below.

I sometimes have to restitch a belt for a customer. I try to match the stitch length and mostly use a diamond or tri-point needle when overstitching or backtacking. The shape on those needles is less likely to puncture the previous thread. The needle system is 794. I get them in sizes 23, 24 and 25, which are my main three needle sizes.

I find that Schmetz S point needles are the worst for slicing previous stitches. Round points (7x3) are the friendliest to stitches, but tend to get stuck in the leather.