Fabric Puckering Concerns

[eblanche]

Hey Folks,

I am having some troubles with a recently acquired machine.

Juki dsc-246 using v69 bonded nylon, size 16-18 fabric R point needles and sewing two+ layers of 210d nylon. As you can see from the photos, I am getting some nasty puckering in the fabric leading to very unsightly seams! The fabric started out as two perfectly flat layers and now features waves. This is my first compound feed and cylinder machine so i first thought I was maybe causing the issues incorrectly FEEDING the fabric (I am doing some flat work here without a flatbed attachment). Now, I am not so sure that I am the cause of these puckers. The machine does sew heavier/thicker including binding work quite well.

Things I have attempted to adjust:

• Thread tensions (bobbin tension here is almost non-existent in an attempt to alleviate the issue.
• Walking foot/inside presser foot pressure: adjustment do not seam to help? but with little pressures, my material slips around underneath with feet sitting on the throat plate
• Smaller Needle size
• Smaller thread: v46

I found a similar thread here which discusses a the same problem but with different materials: 

I am looking for guidance on what steps I should take next or to maybe start over. More adjusting needed? Still thread tension or an issue with the walking feet/feeding. What am I overlooking? The above thread discussed possibly worn out components being a factor. (Ugh hopefully not, this machine does appear to have been well used...) Which ones would maybe cause this?

 

Thanks everyone! 

 

Edited 3 hours ago by Northmount
Video not supported and too large file size

[kgg]

2 hours ago, eblanche said:

I am having some troubles with a recently acquired machine.

My suggestions to try:

i) Your top threading is incorrect. a) The first guide after the top pin should be at the 12 o'clock position b) you have the thread wrapping around and over the pin in the first top thread tensioner. It should go between the tension disc of the top thread tensioner and straight down to the next set of discs for the thread takeup. Section 9 THREAD THE MACHINE HEAD of the manual. If you don't have a manual I have attached a screen shot of the proper threading and a pdf of the manual. 

ii) This machine is a unison / compound machine made for medium to heavy weight materials. The material you are using looks like a thin fairly stiff material similar to ripstop or a very tightly woven fabric. 

a) bulk up the material b) reduce presser foot tension c) make sure the fabric isn't being sucked into the needle plate hole d) use a leather point needle to cut the material rather then a fabric needle which will try to separate fibres before punching through d) Wrong machine for the job try using a domestic sewing machine or needle feed needle.

kgg

instruction_eg.pdf

Edited Wednesday at 08:27 PM by kgg

[eblanche]

Thanks KGG,

 

I should also mention:

A. I have adjusted second thread guide in different positions. I'll reposition to original as per Manuel. 

B. When threading the tension assembly to NOT go up and over the pin, the thread often becomes disengaged from the top tension discs, releasing tension altogether. Maybe there are multiple issues...? I used the pin as suggested in a video for a different type of machine using the same type tension assembly.

 

Materials: yes dually noted! This machine specs suggest lighter thread/needle can be used. Idk if that directly relates to the exact types of materials. I know of many using the 1541 and similar compound machines for the same materials. Of course, this is a dsc246 and not necessarily similar enough. Noted they have thin material feed dogs available with I assume smaller needle hole. I am not currently  aware any available smaller hole presser feet? 

 When I put a similar fabric with more stiffness under the needle it does help but does not solve. And yes it does very fine with thicker assemblies. 

 

I will look into 2 c and d.

 

I do infact use a needle feed machine as well, and it does fine with this two layers of fabric, but not totally ideal for the rest of this sewing line involving thicker parts further down the line of sewing. 

This 246 is primarily for binding but I'm looking to see if I can expand it's usefulness btw horizontal to elliptical feed conversion takes only 5-10 min if anyone wants to know haha

 

Edit: does the thread twist coming off the spool look normal?

 

Thanks a lot!

 

Edited Wednesday at 10:16 PM by eblanche
Clarification

[kgg]

2 hours ago, eblanche said:

does the thread twist coming off the spool look normal?

I can only say the photo of the thread to the top pin looks like an 8 oz spool of inexpensive Chinese thread. Your video doesn't work.

kgg

[eblanche]

8 minutes ago, kgg said:

I can only say the photo of the thread to the top pin looks like an 8 oz spool of inexpensive Chinese thread. Your video doesn't work.

kgg

Okay thanks! this is Amann strongbond v69. Not exactly inexpensive but willing to try others.

 

Does the video work for anyone else?

[Northmount]

22 hours ago, eblanche said:

Does the video work for anyone else?

File too large and not supported.  Don't know how you managed to load this file.  Post it on YouTube and provide a link to it here.