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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, BlackDragon said:

Resolene is a protective finish and should be used to seal the leather. It's better to dampen the leather with water or use a little neatsfoot oil to make your dye even out. Also when adding your finish it is likely the color will change as well. It may become a deeper color and more glossy esp when using an oil or resolene. 

What Fiebings dye are you using, Pro or Ecoflo? If you're using Pro don't dilute with water, you can use alcohol.

Color matching can be very difficult, especially with something that has been in the elements and has darken over time, BUT it may be possible to get somewhat close. Also the leather you use for a test should come from the same leather you're going to make your belt because different leather may react differently to the same dye. Sometimes even using a different section of the same leather can change results.

To the color you showed try adding just a little bit of blue to see if it brings down the yellow. A few drops of blue goes a long way and you can always add more.

Just the regular Fiebings leather dye like in the photo below.

I find that coating first with resolene gets an even color that allows you to make circles with a dabber without some sections being darker than others. I think it's because the leather doesn't absorb nearly as much dye if it has been coated first. I haven't yet tried neatsfoot oil but I plan to pick some up. Would you suggest rubbing some on before the dye?

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Edited by Timothy Lindblom
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Posted
1 hour ago, Timothy Lindblom said:

Just the regular Fiebings leather dye like in the photo below.

I find that coating first with resolene gets an even color that allows you to make circles with a dabber without some sections being darker than others. I think it's because the leather doesn't absorb nearly as much dye if it has been coated first. I haven't yet tried neatsfoot oil but I plan to pick some up. Would you suggest rubbing some on before the dye?

Screenshot2025-06-25at2_36_09PM.png.bfb32ac0cf944fa0ee2bfdc6639297a9.png

After I cut my leather I put some NFO and let it sit for an hour or so while I do other things. (I put just enough to change the color don't saturate the leather.)

I then dye the leather and let it sit until the next day so the leather dries completely. The only times I use a wool dauber is for edges or small projects. For larger things like bags, holster, belts, I use some thing larger like a wool pad or even a folded up sock, you can also dip dye

Then I buff the leather and add my finish, either Resolene (diluted 50/50 with water) or Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax

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Posted

A couple of suggestions.  (1) theres a good possibility you won’t find a dye to match.—- but if you buy two of three dyes you might be able to experiment mixing them to color match. ( same thing as color matching paint at the hardware store.). (2). I would recommend cutting the dye 50/50 with alcohol.  Apply light even coats.  When you dilute the dye, it’ll be a lighter shade.  You can go back and add additional coats to darken it.  If you dyed it full strength, and it’s too dark, theres not really a way to lighten it.  

Regards,

Littlef

Littlef - YouTube

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Posted
12 hours ago, Timothy Lindblom said:

Thanks. Would you coat the leather in resolene prior to rubbing on the walnut or chocolate dye? I do normally because it causes the dye to go on much more evenly but it also messes with the shade of the color a little.

No resolene or other finishes until the dye has penetrated the leather and dried.   Then I'll usually oil and let it even out before I apply a finish.  

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Posted (edited)

I'd probably go medium brown with a couple drops of black to darken just a shade.   Dont' get carried away with the black.

There might be a little light darkening at play there as well.  (Comes of a bit of an oxymoron!).

 

I've always found brown dyes to need a little work to get an even shade.  Coats have to be even and given a little time to penetrate, and you may need to work in any excess that doesn't absorb just right to avoid darker spots.   Use "oil dye" the kind labeled nowadays as PRO dye.

Feibing's has an in house chemist, if you call, he'll call you back and tell you what to blend more precisely.

Edited by Cumberland Highpower
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Posted
14 hours ago, Cumberland Highpower said:

Feibing's has an in house chemist, if you call, he'll call you back and tell you what to blend more precisely.

Didn't know that. Thanks for sharing 

I ordered a bottle of Dark chocolate Fiebings Low VOC this morning. I'll report back once it arrives and let everyone know how it looks. I think with a deeper brown that doesn't have any orange tint, I should be able to dilute it and get a nice light brown. Thanks everyone for chiming in!

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