Need some advice on leather jackets,pants making

[Aykut]

Hi...I've been reading the forums for a while and need some advice on how to make my own leather jackets,vests,pants, etc..

Here's the story:

I collect and sell vintage clothing(mostly vintage leather jackets,pants,boots,belts) I'm also a musician and love the 60s - 70s era rock music which is very related to what i wanna do...it's been a while i've been thinking about making my own 70s inspired jackets and pants...One of my biggest influence is East West Musical instruments company from San Francisco...they are known for making the best rocker jackets from the 70s with great fit and amazing hand painted ,detailed applique art.About 2 months ago i bought a cheap old Kenmore and started experimenting with my ideas, recently i'm getting ok results( I had no sewing machine experience before)..I'm using thick denim fabric right now..After days of experimantation i made my first jacket and it turned out pretty cool i think with my limited knowledge.

My 4 questions are:

1.What would be the best beginner leather sewing machine for me?..From what i've read I need a walking foot machine, right?my budget is about $450-500...I was thinking about getting the Yamata or Feiyue FS288 from Unbeatableprice(about $300) and get the monster wheel from Sailrite( i read about this machine in the forums here)..I need to go as slow as i can for some small applique work on some jackets..

2.What kind of leather to use?...I do not want to use very light leather..i want the jackets to be somehow heavy but also comfortable... kinda like the old leather motorcycle or flight jackets with the grain surface...What thickness and temper of leather would be good?Buffalo or cowhide?

3.What type of thread and needles?again think of the well made vintage motorcycle jackets.

4.If you know any links or forums that would be good for me to check out about leather clothing.

Thank you so much for your time and help.

Aykut

I added the photo of my denim jacket and some leather cuffs i've made along with an example of the East West jacket(with the skull and blood) i dream of making.

[Ian]

I'd pass on the Yamata - bought one of those by mistake once because it looked like a Juki. Ended up selling it for half the price 2 weeks later. I guess no one else wanted it either.

Youll find (as I did when I started making garments) that there are many times that you'll be sewing 6-8 layers of leather at some seams. Don't skimp on the machine - some of the cheap machines just won't make it through

Edited January 16, 2009 by Ian

[Aykut]

Ian Thanks for the reply...I saw the pants you made one of your early topics...they look awesome!...what kind of leather and thread did you use for those?..Are there any sub $400-500 machines you could recommend new or vintage...Thanks man!

[Ian]

Ian Thanks for the reply...I saw the pants you made one of your early topics...they look awesome!...what kind of leather and thread did you use for those?..Are there any sub $400-500 machines you could recommend new or vintage...Thanks man!

That's 3oz naked garment leather sewn with #92 thread.

I don't know of any new machines in that range, but you can sometimes find older walking foot machines in that range. It's a bit tough to find the old machines, because they are so well made that they last forever and people don't want to part with them. Mine is an old Japanese made Consew 206RB (hint, the old German and Japanese machines are the best - that's why the Chinese knock-offs, like Yamata give their machines Japanese names in an attempt to do a little misrepresentation). I was lucky enough to get 2 machines from a defunct car upholstery shop. Like an idiot, I sold one of them, but the one I have is a fantastic machine.

You might try Ebay to see what's around, though be wary, not everything listed as being an industrial machine actually is.

[Aykut]

Thanks again...

[DonnieBlaze]

Hi...I've been reading the forums for a while and need some advice on how to make my own leather jackets,vests,pants, etc..

Here's the story:

I collect and sell vintage clothing(mostly vintage leather jackets,pants,boots,belts) I'm also a musician and love the 60s - 70s era rock music which is very related to what i wanna do...it's been a while i've been thinking about making my own 70s inspired jackets and pants...One of my biggest influence is East West Musical instruments company from San Francisco...they are known for making the best rocker jackets from the 70s with great fit and amazing hand painted ,detailed applique art.About 2 months ago i bought a cheap old Kenmore and started experimenting with my ideas, recently i'm getting ok results( I had no sewing machine experience before)..I'm using thick denim fabric right now..After days of experimantation i made my first jacket and it turned out pretty cool i think with my limited knowledge.

My 4 questions are:

1.What would be the best beginner leather sewing machine for me?..From what i've read I need a walking foot machine, right?my budget is about $450-500...I was thinking about getting the Yamata or Feiyue FS288 from Unbeatableprice(about $300) and get the monster wheel from Sailrite( i read about this machine in the forums here)..I need to go as slow as i can for some small applique work on some jackets..

2.What kind of leather to use?...I do not want to use very light leather..i want the jackets to be somehow heavy but also comfortable... kinda like the old leather motorcycle or flight jackets with the grain surface...What thickness and temper of leather would be good?Buffalo or cowhide?

3.What type of thread and needles?again think of the well made vintage motorcycle jackets.

4.If you know any links or forums that would be good for me to check out about leather clothing.

Thank you so much for your time and help.

Aykut

I added the photo of my denim jacket and some leather cuffs i've made along with an example of the East West jacket(with the skull and blood) i dream of making.

Nice work i like your jacket and the cuffs are cool. i have a question for you i have been wanting to make my own jacket and i was wandering what pattern did you use to make yours i cnt seem to fined anything like that on the web any hel would bee great thanks

[John at Byson]

>1.What would be the best beginner leather sewing machine for me?..From what i've read I need a walking foot >machine, right?my budget is about $450-500...I was thinking about getting the Yamata or Feiyue FS288 from >Unbeatableprice(about $300) and get the monster wheel from Sailrite( i read about this machine in the forums >here)..I need to go as slow as i can for some small applique work on some jackets..

If you can find an old Singer, go for it. I'd avoid the 29K machines though unless you are mechanically minded as they tend to have lead a very hard life. But walking foot is essential if you are doing this seriously.

>2.What kind of leather to use?...I do not want to use very light leather..i want the jackets to be somehow >heavy but also comfortable... kinda like the old leather motorcycle or flight jackets with the grain surface...What >thickness and temper of leather would be good?Buffalo or cowhide?

Cowhide, at least 1.3mm thick. There are some musings here that may help...

http://www.bysonleat...outLeathers.htm

>3.What type of thread and needles?again think of the well made vintage motorcycle jackets.

We use Coats  Nylbond 40T70. We DON'T use leather point needles. Use the finest needle you can get away with. It does less damage to the leather.

>4.If you know any links or forums that would be good for me to check out about leather clothing.>

[albane]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=259407886&albumId=1642157

This is a link to some photos of some of my sewing machines.

For the type of leather work the op is talking about the pfaff 1245 is by far the best machine ever produced.

Consew provide a useful set of instruments considering they cost less than half what the pfaff rigs do

the consew 227 cylinder arm and post machines will prove themselves vary useful for repairs and alterations.

thread selection:

depends on your desired result.

strength or look?

strength is subject to interpretation and production constraints

technically speaking one would match thread with the burst strength in the textile surrounding the seam.

under load the thread and the leather would fail at the exact moment

the leather rips the thread is to heavy. the thread breaks the thread is to small.

this is an important consideration when producing safety equipment ( life support)

the look is another thing to conciser.

most biker folk tend to like a bolder look so when garment making I prefer 138 bonded nylon .

with the high fashion designers making there way in to the leather community they have a different "vision" that appeals to them. so in that case they may want a finer seam so 69 or 46 bonded nylon is in order.

the choice is up to them. I try to provide the client with sewn samples and inform them of the pros and cons so they can make an informed decision.

the place where I hold firm is on stitch length between 4 and 6 per inch no compromise. without a signed release of liability.

the last thing with thread is color match or contrast? I like to match but some people like contrast. contrast requires a finer operator so ..... a new can of worms.

good luck

Respectfully yours,