Sewing machine for true moccasin footwear

[X24]

Hey all, I’m looking for sewing machine recommendations. I know there’s probably no perfect solution for my needs aside from owning multiple machines, but I’d love to hear input.

I’ve been working on true-moccasin style bootmaking—basically trying to mimic Russell Moccasin’s approach as closely as possible. This involves sewing 3D lines with partially assembled components getting in the way. I’ve been managing with a hand-cranked CLSP, which has done surprisingly well with some planning and tinkering, but it’s not ideal.

Here’s my bootmaking Instagram for reference:
📸 x24_leathers

Some challenges:

Heel stay: Very 3D—standard cylinder arms don’t offer the articulation I need. A post-bed machine would likely shine here.

Quarters to vamp / molded sole to upper: These need a cylinder arm. A post-bed can’t manage this geometry.

Russell uses a range of machines—Puritan chain stitch, post-bed, cylinder arm, etc.—but I don’t have their resources.

I’ve been eyeing a motorized 29k clone. I know it’s a patching machine, not a production machine—but the general concept (rotating arm, slim profile) actually works well for my use case. That said, its 6mm punch capacity and basic walking foot feed seem limiting.

Ideally, I want to upgrade from the CLSP to something that retains its versatility, handles moderate 3D work, and can sew with #5 Vinymo MBT (about 0.6mm; slightly thicker than size 138). I currently use:

120/19 needles for <3mm material

130/22 needles (these: Amazon link) for >3mm

Any recommendations or insights are appreciated. Thanks!

[mbnaegle]

Not sure if this is what you are after as I have I've no experience in shoe or moccasin making, BUT something maybe of interest is that in the 1950's there was an Indian moccasin fad big enough that the American Stay Co. (later sold to Randall) developed a moccasin seam sewing attachment for the Union Lockstitch machine (Needle and Awl Harness stitcher). To mount it, the machine's face plate and the awl bar had to have some extra features machined into them, but most every machine made from the 1950's to the 1990's had those features ready to use.

Essentially what this attachment does is replaces the up-down pressure foot motion with a left right pressure, pushing the material into the channel of a special needle plate. The pressure bar (LS-801) could be inserted into the shoe, allowing the moccasin's upper seam to be sewn.

We haven't sold parts for these in decades, but still have it all on the shelf and It's been on my to-do list to set up a machine with one and try it out.

Edited July 15 by mbnaegle

[kgg]

2 hours ago, X24 said:

(about 0.6mm; slightly thicker than size 138).

Incorrect: 0.6mm thread is just slightly smaller then V346 ( T350). Reference Chart use ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). To handle thread above V207 you need a Juki TSC-441 or clone similar to the CB4500 or a one armed bandit like the Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss or the Weaver Cub.

kgg

 

[X24]

1 hour ago, mbnaegle said:

Not sure if this is what you are after as I have I've no experience in shoe or moccasin making, BUT something maybe of interest is that in the 1950's there was an Indian moccasin fad big enough that the American Stay Co. (later sold to Randall) developed a moccasin seam sewing attachment for the Union Lockstitch machine (Needle and Awl Harness stitcher). To mount it, the machine's face plate and the awl bar had to have some extra features machined into them, but most every machine made from the 1950's to the 1990's had those features ready to use.

Essentially what this attachment does is replaces the up-down pressure foot motion with a left right pressure, pushing the material into the channel of a special needle plate. The pressure bar (LS-801) could be inserted into the shoe, allowing the moccasin's upper seam to be sewn.

We haven't sold parts for these in decades, but still have it all on the shelf and It's been on my to-do list to set up a machine with one and try it out.

That's pretty neat! I do just plan on doing the moc toe stitch by hand though. There's no real useful way for me to make it happen via machine 

 

49 minutes ago, kgg said:

Incorrect: 0.6mm thread is just slightly smaller then V346 ( T350). Reference Chart use ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). To handle thread above V207 you need a Juki TSC-441 or clone similar to the CB4500 or a one armed bandit like the Cowboy Outlaw, Tippmann Boss or the Weaver Cub.

kgg

 

 

Apologies, I had written up a draft and asked ChatGPT to clean up my ramblings and incoherencies. I meant to say that I've seen vinymo #5 compared to 138, which didn't make sense to me. It seemed much bigger. But, it still does go through my CLSP.

[Wizcrafts]

@X24

A few years ago, I was friends with a guy and lady who were producing bespoke shoes and boots. After a couple of years, she left the partnership and went on her own. She decided to make moccasin style footwear. She enlisted me to help find some suitable sewing machines. To my amazement, I discovered a specialized shoe sewing machine that is called a "sole sidewall stitcher." This type of machine combines the vertical sides attached to the soles to the uppers, all around their sides. 

I did a quick Google search and discovered that some of our own advertisers sell these sidewall stitchers. Brand names that come to mind include Cobra, Cowboy and Techsew. Although not an advertiser, yet, Campbell-Randall in Texas also carries these machines. You can see them in action in the videos in a 2017 topic linked to in the topic below.

Here is a previous discussion about sidewall stitchers on Leatherworker.net:

[X24]

9 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

@X24

A few years ago, I was friends with a guy and lady who were producing bespoke shoes and boots. After a couple of years, she left the partnership and went on her own. She decided to make moccasin style footwear. She enlisted me to help find some suitable sewing machines. To my amazement, I discovered a specialized shoe sewing machine that is called a "sole sidewall stitcher." This type of machine combines the vertical sides attached to the soles to the uppers, all around their sides. 

I did a quick Google search and discovered that some of our own advertisers sell these sidewall stitchers. Brand names that come to mind include Cobra, Cowboy and Techsew. Although not an advertiser, yet, Campbell-Randall in Texas also carries these machines. You can see them in action in the videos in a 2017 topic linked to in the topic below.

Here is a previous discussion about sidewall stitchers on Leatherworker.net:

Thanks for the reply! I have come across those sole sidewall stitchers, but they are obviously fairly specialized. I am unsure of how much I could use it for anything else besides what it's intended for. I would love to have one at some point, assuming I continue down the shoemaking path. 

It's been fairly hard to me to find the best direction to go from my CLSP. I don't know if any single machine will be able to do all of the sewing on my upper assemblies. Seems like that could just be an unfortunate aspect of this style of construction.

[kgg]

1 hour ago, X24 said:

I don't know if any single machine will be able to do all of the sewing on my upper assemblies.

Keep in mind no one machine will do everything. That is why a lot of use have more then one class of machine. If you are going to specialize in that type of work by the proper machine as indicated by @Wizcrafts and @mbnaegle. If you want to do flat work (wallets, belts) buy a flatbed, if you are going to do circular items get a cylinder arm machine. As a note you can sorta kinda turn a cylinder arm machine into flatbed by installing a flatbed table top attachment. If you want to use thread above V207 get a class 441 cylinder arm machine (manual or motorized). 

Buy Once, Cry Once

kgg

[X24]

5 hours ago, kgg said:

Keep in mind no one machine will do everything. That is why a lot of use have more then one class of machine. If you are going to specialize in that type of work by the proper machine as indicated by @Wizcrafts and @mbnaegle. If you want to do flat work (wallets, belts) buy a flatbed, if you are going to do circular items get a cylinder arm machine. As a note you can sorta kinda turn a cylinder arm machine into flatbed by installing a flatbed table top attachment. If you want to use thread above V207 get a class 441 cylinder arm machine (manual or motorized). 

Buy Once, Cry Once

kgg

I highly suspected that was the case, I was just curious if anyone more experiencd had any other ideas. I will likely just motorize my CLSP for now, as my main complaint is not having two hands to hold the work piece when stitching. 

Neither a cylinder arm, nor a post bed, can sew everything I'd like on my uppers. But this stupid little manual machine can do most things I want. And it can push thick thread through a good chunk of material. To replace it, I'd basically need to grab a cylinder arm and post bed at the same time. 

 

Edited Wednesday at 10:56 PM by X24

[AlZilla]

28 minutes ago, X24 said:

To replace it, I'd basically need to grab a cylinder arm and post bed at the same time. 

Maybe motorizing the patcher will be all you need. If not, buy whichever machine will replace the most work for you.

Sewing machines are a deep, expensive rabbit hole.

[X24]

26 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Maybe motorizing the patcher will be all you need. If not, buy whichever machine will replace the most work for you.

Sewing machines are a deep, expensive rabbit hole.

Agreed. My current thoughts are to motorized the CLSP and get all I can from it. I think I'll keep an eye out for a Puritan chain stitcher, because they clearly work well for this style of construction. 

[Wizcrafts]

45 minutes ago, X24 said:

I think I'll keep an eye out for a Puritan chain stitcher, because they clearly work well for this style of construction.

Redwing boots are sewn on Puritan chainstitch machines. Some have 4 or more needles to sew parallel lines at critical seams on the boots. I guess it wouldn't hurt to contact them and ask if they have any Puritans they want to sell off.

[X24]

2 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Redwing boots are sewn on Puritan chainstitch machines. Some have 4 or more needles to sew parallel lines at critical seams on the boots. I guess it wouldn't hurt to contact them and ask if they have any Puritans they want to sell off.

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. I found one on ebay the other day, but it just ended up being poor timing with the logistics of trying to get it here. They seem like super neat machines. 

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, X24 said:

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. I found one on ebay the other day, but it just ended up being poor timing with the logistics of trying to get it here. They seem like super neat machines. 

Some Puritan machines have been in service for a century, or longer. Parts wear out over decades of use. Finding replacement parts may be difficult. I believe that Redwing repairs their Puritan machines on-site and probably manufacturers all needed replacement parts, or out-sources them to local machine shops.

Here are some references and videos of Puritan Machines in action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMWAPPEucMI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOVaDCN-BEI

Here's one (currently) for sale on eBay, in Pennsylvania.

[DCH]

Thanks for posting the links, it’s fun to see these sewing machines!

[X24]

8 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

Some Puritan machines have been in service for a century, or longer. Parts wear out over decades of use. Finding replacement parts may be difficult. I believe that Redwing repairs their Puritan machines on-site and probably manufacturers all needed replacement parts, or out-sources them to local machine shops.

Here are some references and videos of Puritan Machines in action.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMWAPPEucMI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOVaDCN-BEI

Here's one (currently) for sale on eBay, in Pennsylvania.

That last one is the one I had found on ebay too. I'd love to grab it, but I am leaving to Peru here shortly, and will be gone for a couple weeks. Figuring out transport logistics would be a hell of a thing. 

[Cumberland Highpower]

On 7/15/2025 at 4:42 PM, mbnaegle said:

Not sure if this is what you are after as I have I've no experience in shoe or moccasin making, BUT something maybe of interest is that in the 1950's there was an Indian moccasin fad big enough that the American Stay Co. (later sold to Randall) developed a moccasin seam sewing attachment for the Union Lockstitch machine (Needle and Awl Harness stitcher). To mount it, the machine's face plate and the awl bar had to have some extra features machined into them, but most every machine made from the 1950's to the 1990's had those features ready to use.

Essentially what this attachment does is replaces the up-down pressure foot motion with a left right pressure, pushing the material into the channel of a special needle plate. The pressure bar (LS-801) could be inserted into the shoe, allowing the moccasin's upper seam to be sewn.

We haven't sold parts for these in decades, but still have it all on the shelf and It's been on my to-do list to set up a machine with one and try it out.

Unfortunately running a UL is a bit of a trade in itself.  Unless a guy was sewing 200 units a day that would definitely be the wrong machine and attachment to recommend. If he had 200 to sew, daily I'd say that's right up his alley!

I used to have an Adler 205-25 that was built for moccasins.   What was the advantage? Hard to say really, because I never saw the good in it.   At least on that machine you could set the upper foot to feed more or less relative to the feed dog with easy adjustments.

Apparently quite allot of moccasin makers used the 205-25, I've seen a fair number out there.   

Edited Thursday at 09:00 PM by Cumberland Highpower