Aluminum rivets

[JDFred]

Has anyone used aluminum rivet and burrs?  I was in Tandy this weekend and saw some for sale, it got me wondering about their strength and durability.  They were marketed as decorative which is what sparked the question.  I really like using copper rivets they are pretty strong and give a nice look; however when used with stainless hardware it clashes.  Aluminum would solve this problem.  I know aluminum is a reasonably strong metal so I think they would be fine but anyone with experience using them that has any input would be appreciated.  If it helps my intended application for these would be for attaching buckles onto horse headstall or show cattle halters.  Thank you for any help.

[fredk]

Can't help re strength but aluminium corrodes quickly in damp/wet environments and leaves a blue stain on the leather

[kgg]

1 hour ago, JDFred said:

If it helps my intended application for these would be for attaching buckles onto horse headstall or show cattle halters.

Have you thought of using Chicago screws as you can get them in various sizes (diameter and length). Like @fredk I would be more concerned with using AL but then again I have had Copper rivets turn green.

kgg

[TomE]

Might be tricky to get good results with aluminum rivets using a manual rivet setter(?).  I have replaced solid aluminum rivets that secure the billets to the tree of a dressage saddle using a domed rivet setter like the one shown below.  It fits in an air hammer and is handy for directing the peening blows straight on the axis of the rivet.  I set 3/16" solid aluminum rivets with a washer/burr using this setup and it was fairly foolproof.  Need to support the back face of the rivet with a bucking bar or small anvil/dolly.  McMaster-Carr sells a variety of aluminum rivets and setters.

 

 

PS  For halter buckles, I would sew them on.  Rivets can pull out.

Edited yesterday at 01:46 AM by TomE

[JDFred]

20 hours ago, fredk said:

Can't help re strength but aluminium corrodes quickly in damp/wet environments and leaves a blue stain on the leather

Good thought about corrosion, I kinda forget some places actually have moisture.  But sweat may cause problems.

[JDFred]

20 hours ago, kgg said:

Have you thought of using Chicago screws as you can get them in various sizes (diameter and length). Like @fredk I would be more concerned with using AL but then again I have had Copper rivets turn green.

kgg

I have been using Chicago screws, I always wonder if they are going to back off, so I put glue in them then I wonder if I’ll get them apart if I need to. Which I know is contradictory since rivets are hard to get apart.  The other thing I really like the way rivet and burrs look which is what lead to this question.

[JDFred]

20 hours ago, TomE said:

Might be tricky to get good results with aluminum rivets using a manual rivet setter(?).  I have replaced solid aluminum rivets that secure the billets to the tree of a dressage saddle using a domed rivet setter like the one shown below.  It fits in an air hammer and is handy for directing the peening blows straight on the axis of the rivet.  I set 3/16" solid aluminum rivets with a washer/burr using this setup and it was fairly foolproof.  Need to support the back face of the rivet with a bucking bar or small anvil/dolly.  McMaster-Carr sells a variety of aluminum rivets and setters.

 

 

PS  For halter buckles, I would sew them on.  Rivets can pull out.

Yes they would be hand set.  It is a good point that the post might buckle with a glancing blow with aluminum being soft.  If you have used them to hold billets onto a tree it the would probably be strong enough to attach buckles to a head stall.  One day I will remember to modify my pattern before I cut it out to accommodate sewing in buckles.  I usually remember about the time it is time to attach the buckle.  However if I could remember the strength question is voided and I could use them as a solely decorative application. Thanks for the help.

[fredk]

I used aluminium rivets on a few 'Viking' shields. They mainly held the boss on but also a hand-hold strap and also a carrying strap known as a guige. In use they were strong enuf for the shields to be flung about. In wet conditions the rivets corroded and left a blue stain on the leather.  I changed to galvanized iron rivets. The aluminium rivets never failed despite the abuse the shields got

The rivets were easy-peasy to set. I just peened them over using a ball-head hammer. I used ordinary brass washers on them

Edited 5 hours ago by fredk

[JDFred]

3 hours ago, fredk said:

I used aluminium rivets on a few 'Viking' shields. They mainly held the boss on but also a hand-hold strap and also a carrying strap known as a guige. In use they were strong enuf for the shields to be flung about. In wet conditions the rivets corroded and left a blue stain on the leather.  I changed to galvanized iron rivets. The aluminium rivets never failed despite the abuse the shields got

The rivets were easy-peasy to set. I just peened them over using a ball-head hammer. I used ordinary brass washers on them

What size rivets were you using?  Based on yours and TomE’s usages they should be plenty strong.  It is interesting that they caused a blue stain on the leather, in my experiences aluminum stains black and oxidizes white it must have something to do with a reaction with the tannins in the leather. Were you using chrome or veg tan on your shields?  Maybe the tannin makes a difference?  As to moisture causing problems… the only moisture problems we have in far west Texas is there is none.  Was there any reason for using brass washers with the rivets instead of aluminum washers?  Maybe that could’ve caused the blue staining was a metallurgic reaction from dissimilar metals?  Thank you for the help and sorry for the random rambling questions and thoughts.

[fredk]

Taking last first I've had aluminium corrosion being blue away from any contact with leather. When #1 son was younger he shaved his head. At one medieval history event he wore an aluminium  chainmaille coif. (coif = head covering) It was a very hot day. He perspired a lot. When he took the coif off his head was covered in a pattern of blue circles. He told others that he was an ancient Briton!  (who used to paint blue patterns on their bodies)

I used brass washers as I didn't want to use steel. For that will give an electrolytic reaction*. And I didn't have aluminium

The leather straps were un-dyed veg tan

As far as I can remember the rivets diameter was less that 1/4 inch. Maybe 3/16" or 5/32"   If I can find them I could measure. 

I was given about 2000 of them. Gave loads away for model steam engine building and used about 50

 

* in motor vehicle building we put a layer of sponge rubber between the steel frame and the aluminium body work otherwise if both were in contact during corrosion the aluminium acts as a sacrificial metal corroding away quickly

PS; when setting the rivets and peening, I drilled a counter-sunk hole in a large steel plate and used that to support the round dome head