Help! Singer 111w155 stripped / stuck screw

[matthew123]

Hi All!

First I just want to say how grateful I am for this forum.  I've learned so much from you all.  Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise!

I just picked up my first compound feed machine, a Singer 111w155.  It sews OK, but the outer presser feet don't lift up enough to accommodate thick material.  Based on the manual (see pic attached), it seems that to adjust the relative height of the outer foot with respect to the inner (needle) foot, one has to use the lifting eccentric.  However the set screw is stripped and very stuck.  See the pic attached.  I believe the stripped screw is "C" in the manual screenshot.  I also noticed that screw "D" (which I think is the one people call the worm screw) spins freely, which seems weird.  It appears someone may have ground away part of the machine casing to get better access to this screw in the past...can anyone confirm from the pic? 

 

So far I have tried:

spraying the screw with PB blaster nightly for a few nights

using a Dremel with a small pineapple burr to deepen the flathead groove

gently tapping the screw with a screwdriver and hammer

heating it lightly with a mini butane torch

I got the screwdriver to bite better when I drilled out the groove, but when I applied force, it again started widening the screw groove again and eating away at the screw head.  

 

Can anyone offer other suggestions?  I am considering taking it to a local machine shop to see if they can rescue me.  I am hesitant to try a left hand drill bit and screw extractor, because the option of deepening the flathead groove further with the dremel seems like a good one and I don't want to burn that bridge.  Help!!  Am I missing something? 

 

Thanks!

Matt

 

 

 

[Constabulary]

how about a screw extractor. not sure if it works but IMO it one of the last options you probably have.

There are other model video show just a random one.

 

Edited 19 hours ago by Constabulary

[matthew123]

Thanks Constabulary!  I agree that the screw extractor could work.  I'm trying to postpone that option because I feel like maybe deepening the screwdriver groove might still be a viable option, but I admit it's hard to get the contour good enough that a screwdriver will really bite.  I appreciate the suggestion! 

 

Anyone know if replacements for this screw are available? 

I'm open to any and all ideas!  Thanks again
 

[friquant]

To change the relative lift, you will need to loosen the clamp screw at the top of this crank arm.

[friquant]

As for removing the screw with the mangled head, has anybody tried a manual impact driver on their sewing machines?

https://www.amazon.com/LEONTOOL-Extractor-Reversible-Screwdriver-Fasteners/dp/B0CTXD91YW

[friquant]

18 hours ago, matthew123 said:

Can anyone offer other suggestions?

When dremeling the slot, I would go all the way to the edge of the screw head. If you overrun and go into the eccentric a little bit that's okay too. 

Make the sides of the slot as vertical as possible. Do you have a flat-ended burr? You may be able to scrape the sides into better shape (with a flatter bottom) using a smaller flat screwdriver or the pointy end of a file.

Can you post a photo of the screwdriver bit that you are using, next to the screw you are trying to remove? Ideally the bit would be the full width of the screw head, and the full thickness of the screw slot minus just enough to get in there.

I would lay the machine on its front (make sure it's supported well, not resting on any delicate parts) so you can press down from above using  your body weight.

I've started using a drop of diesel instead of PB blaster.

When removing stuck screws, I go one way then the other.

Add more heat. We're talking kitchen-sized torch, not cigar lighter.

And consider the manual impact driver.

 

[dikman]

A straight-sided carbide burr to try and get a deep slot with a flat bottom and parallel sides. Try heating the screw again and then hit it with a freezing spray. Drill through the screw, sometimes this can relieve pressure on the threads and allow it to move. Doing this first and then heating should allow better heat penetration to the threads and then a screw remover tool.

Just a few ideas, of course the screw will need to be replaced and if you can't get a replacement then re-tap for an allen-head grubscrew.

[AlZilla]

2 hours ago, friquant said:

As for removing the screw with the mangled head, has anybody tried an impact driver on their sewing machines?

https://www.amazon.com/LEONTOOL-Extractor-Reversible-Screwdriver-Fasteners/dp/B0CTXD91YW

Mine is a more rationally sized, smaller one, but yes. They work especially well on these screws we deal with that haven't moved in a hundred years.

[AlZilla]

I wouldn't heat those parts. I don't know what that would do to the hardness. But I would lay it down and build on what looks like a pretty good dimple almost dead center. I'd get a punch and make that bigger and deeper. Then I'd start with an 1/8" drill bit and work up. You'll need to determine how long that screw is so you don't drill through it.

[matthew123]

You guys rock!  Thank you so much for all the amazing advice. 

Friquant, thanks for the heads up about adjusting that clamp screw in back.  I did try that one first, but I ended up with the machine binding before I could get enough lift out of it, so I figured the next step was the stripped screw "C" in question for the eccentric.  Great point about extending the filing to the edges of the screw...I think that should help a lot.  I will try a flat sided carbide burr!  

I posted a pic of the screwdriver in the screw groove.  As you can see, it's not quite tall enough and definitely not thick enough.  I will either search for one or work on filing down a piece of metal to serve as the new driver. 

Dikman, I love the idea of drilling out the center of the screw with a small bit but still keeping the flathead groove on and use that to loosen it.   I never thought of "coring" out the inside of the screw to relieve the pressure like that, but it totally makes sense and sounds like it will work!

I think laying the machine down on its front is a great idea and will be very helpful. 

Alzilla and Friquant, do you think the impact driver is too much force against the shaft that this all rests on?  I have one of those things but hesitated to use it. 

 

Thank you all again!! 

 

 

 

Edited 2 hours ago by matthew123