Starting a Seam in leather or fabric

[kgg]

The very basics of getting a good seam are:

i) correct machine threading

ii) correct top & bobbin tension

iii) correct needle system for your machine

iv) correct orientation of the needle 

v) correct needle type (ex. 135 x 16  for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric) 

vi) correct size of needle to handle the top thread

vii) This next step is where people seem to be having a problem. Getting the seam started. You really need to hold both the top and bobbin thread as you start your seam.

That can be a royal pain grabbing and holding those threads particularly with smaller sized thread like v69 and v92. If you don't hold both together weird things can happen like jams, bird nesting, skipped stitches, etc.

A quick solution is:

Tie both threads together by a simple knot. Chances are now you will be able to grab the threads and put consistent tension on both threads at the same time.  

viii) Locking the threads

a) Typical method is sew forward 3 or 4 stitches and then reverse to lock the stitches then continue with forward stitching.

b) More Advanced Method is start your stitching 3 or 4 stitches in and reverse sew back 3 or 4 stitches. The seam threads will be locked when you sew forward but with less thread bulk in the needle holes.

 

kgg

Edited 5 hours ago by kgg

[chuck123wapati]

nice!!! 

[AlZilla]

The basics never go out of style. 

When I was getting started with industrials I took the advice to "hold back hard" to heart and I was splitting the thread on the hook of my 111w. I think that advice was meant for bigger machines. Caused me a lot of frustration until I figured it out. Just gentle pressure.

[kgg]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

nice!!! 

Thank you

51 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

The basics never go out of style. 

52 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Just gentle pressure.

Everything in moderation. The aim is two fold. Even tension and to prevent any excess bobbin thread on the underside of the leather or fabric that would cause a problem.

kgg