Starting a Seam in leather or fabric

[kgg]

The very basics of getting a good seam are:

i) correct machine threading

ii) correct top & bobbin tension

iii) correct needle system for your machine

iv) correct orientation of the needle 

v) correct needle type (ex. 135 x 16  for leather and 135 x 17 for fabric) 

vi) correct size of needle to handle the top thread

vii) This next step is where people seem to be having a problem. Getting the seam started. You really need to hold both the top and bobbin thread as you start your seam.

That can be a royal pain grabbing and holding those threads particularly with smaller sized thread like v69 and v92. If you don't hold both together weird things can happen like jams, bird nesting, skipped stitches, etc.

A quick solution is:

Tie both threads together by a simple knot. Chances are now you will be able to grab the threads and put consistent tension on both threads at the same time.  

viii) Locking the threads

a) Typical method is sew forward 3 or 4 stitches and then reverse to lock the stitches then continue with forward stitching.

b) More Advanced Method is start your stitching 3 or 4 stitches in and reverse sew back 3 or 4 stitches. The seam threads will be locked when you sew forward but with less thread bulk in the needle holes.

 

kgg

Edited yesterday at 02:36 PM by kgg

[chuck123wapati]

nice!!! 

[AlZilla]

The basics never go out of style. 

When I was getting started with industrials I took the advice to "hold back hard" to heart and I was splitting the thread on the hook of my 111w. I think that advice was meant for bigger machines. Caused me a lot of frustration until I figured it out. Just gentle pressure.

[kgg]

2 hours ago, chuck123wapati said:

nice!!! 

Thank you

51 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

The basics never go out of style. 

52 minutes ago, AlZilla said:

Just gentle pressure.

Everything in moderation. The aim is two fold. Even tension and to prevent any excess bobbin thread on the underside of the leather or fabric that would cause a problem.

kgg 

[Wizcrafts]

Some of us, myself included, have machines without reverse. We can either sew all the way around an object and overlap the starting thread about 5 stitches, or tie off the starting threads under the work, or spin the work 180 degrees and perform poor man's reverse to sew over the starting few stitches.

As for holding back both starting threads, some jobs render that impossible. A good example is sewing patches onto vests and jackets where you can only handle the top thread. In this case I hold down the top thread behind the presser foot so it doesn't get pulled down into the shuttle during the initial couple of stitches.

[kgg]

4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

As for holding back both starting threads, some jobs render that impossible.

That is very true there are situations where you just can't get the bobbin thread.

4 hours ago, Wizcrafts said:

We can either sew all the way around an object and overlap the starting thread about 5 stitches, or tie off the starting threads under the work, or spin the work 180 degrees and perform poor man's reverse to sew over the starting few stitches.

Nice tip for machines without reverse.

kgg