Machine for bag interiors

[Apostolos]

Hi everyone, 

I own an adler 269 and make the odd handbag, tote, etc. 

The thing is, I have been lining them, mostly with light to medium fabric which is a bit of a pain to stitch on the adler. I mostly stitch with 135 top and bottom and a 130 needle, so need to change everything out, plus loosen the tensioners to get it to do a half decent job with #45 thread. 

I was considering a home sewing machine  - I lack the space for another unit with its own table. There's a singer 237 (70s model with straight stitch and zig zag-full metal gearing) available from a used sewing machine dealer, who assures me it will suit my purposes. It may very well be enough, does anyone in here have any experience with something similar? 

At most I will be sewing light canvas, around 8 or 9 oz, but mostly lighter, stretchier fabrics. 

Thanks for any info! 

 

[friquant]

I would recommend a bottom feed machine.

I've been using this bottom-feed Singer 31-15 on a tabletop skirt for my thinner goods. We have a domestic sewing machine that would work as well, but I like bigger toys I guess.

If the machine you're looking at is in sewing condition, you could take some of your canvas and thread (TEX 70 I'm guessing) and make sure it will sew through as many layers as you are likely to need, and make sure it has even stitch length when going over minor humps.

[toxo]

2 hours ago, Apostolos said:

Hi everyone, 

I own an adler 269 and make the odd handbag, tote, etc. 

The thing is, I have been lining them, mostly with light to medium fabric which is a bit of a pain to stitch on the adler. I mostly stitch with 135 top and bottom and a 130 needle, so need to change everything out, plus loosen the tensioners to get it to do a half decent job with #45 thread. 

I was considering a home sewing machine  - I lack the space for another unit with its own table. There's a singer 237 (70s model with straight stitch and zig zag-full metal gearing) available from a used sewing machine dealer, who assures me it will suit my purposes. It may very well be enough, does anyone in here have any experience with something similar? 

At most I will be sewing light canvas, around 8 or 9 oz, but mostly lighter, stretchier fabrics. 

Thanks for any info! 

 

You don't say how you're fixing the liner. Does it have to be completely detachable? If not, could it be just glued in? How about this before you spend important money. Presumably the bottom can be just a fold over. the top can be hidden under a turned and stiched leather top seam. That just leaves the sides. If your machine won't do the job after a couple of folds, how about packing it out with a strip of leather welt which can be held in place with double sided or basting tape. Just a thought but I'm a bugger for solving problems with what's to hand before throwing money at it. Of course, if you intend production runs that's a different matter.

[AlZilla]

I very much like the 237. Straight stitch and zigzag. Some versions had a way to drop the feed dogs, some didn't. It sports pretty much the same guts as the Class 15 machines that have been sewing relentlessly for a hundred years, except they added the swing needle mechanics.

When you say #45 thread, I assume you mean Tex 45, well in the range of a domestic machine.

Another machine I like for that application is a Kenmore 158 or 385 series machine (though avoid the later, plastic bodied 385s).  They have all metal running gear and you can find them in free arm configurations.

[Apostolos]

@friquantIdeally I should test it, but I found this shop whilst at a nearby town, so I may just have to pay them another visit. 

@toxoThanks for your reply, I should have made it clear that the lining is only attached at the top, stitched into the construction, essentially a bag within a bag. 

@AlZillaThanks@AlZillaThanks for the info Al, I did mean tex 45, the one I found has the drop down feed dogs, I think. 

I will probably just make another trip there to give it a go and will most likely end up getting it if it seems solid. 

Thanks for all your replies! 

[AlZilla]

5 hours ago, Apostolos said:

will probably just make another trip there to give it a go and will most likely end up getting it if it seems solid. 

Very nice. If it's in a shop I imagine it won't be inexpensive but I'd hope they will have gone through it and fixed any issues. In my part of the world, we find them anywhere from free to $30 or $40 from private sellers. I doubt a small shop would bother with one. 

My biggest complaint with any of those 70's and 80's machines is when they start slow and the motor grumbles and growls. It can be just a lack of lubrication or it can be the motor and/or foot controller. All fixable issues but take time and money. I would expect a machine from a shop to start smoothly and run easy.

[Apostolos]

@AlZillaCorrect, not inexpensive at 120€, but if I try it out and it runs fine, I think I'll just go for it as I have neither the time nor the inclination to find a used machine from a private owner and try to get it back in shape. 

[kgg]

22 hours ago, Apostolos said:

I mostly stitch with 135 top and bottom and a 130 needle, so need to change everything out, plus loosen the tensioners to get it to do a half decent job with #45 thread. 

My two cents worth:

Notes

i) The recommended size of needle for Tex135 (V138) is a 140 (#22) thin material, 160 (#23) medium material and 180 (#24) thick material.

ii) Your 130 needle is really meant for Tex90 (V92). A good reference chart is ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ).

iii) V45 has a breaking strength of 7.5 lbs

iv) V69 has a breaking strength of 11 lbs

v) V92 has a breaking strength of 14.5 lbs

vi) V138 has a breaking strength of 22 lbs

22 hours ago, Apostolos said:

I own an adler 269 and make the odd handbag, tote, etc. 

If I'm not mistaken the 269 is cylinder arm and by adding a simple table top attachment you would have sorta kinda a flatbed for versatility. 

22 hours ago, Apostolos said:

plus loosen the tensioners to get it to do a half decent job with #45 thread. 

Personally I wouldn't bother changing the thread size and do all the sewing with Tex135 (V138). 

kgg