Acidity of Neatsfoot Oil and it's potential effect on bluing.

[Latigo Smith]

When I made holsters many years ago, I didn't typically apply any type of oil to them, however as I'm getting back into it, I'm thinking of applying a very, very light coat of 100% pure Neatsfoot oil on both the inside and outside of my lined holsters, not enough to soften the leather any, but just enough to add a touch of moisture to ensure that the leather doesn't crack.

 

My concern lies in the fact that Neatsfoot oil is mostly or entirely comprised of various types of acids, and seeing as how even mild acids can damage a firearm's bluing, I'm hesitant about applying Neatsfoot oil to the inside of a holster for nice gloss blued guns. Yes, I would be applying Resolene to the inside of the holster after applying the oil, but I'd still be a bit concerned about the gun coming into direct contact with the oiled leather as the Resolene is worn over time. 

 

Have any of you ever seen this cause a problem for bluing? I know many of you probably make holsters primarily for modern guns with indestructible finishes like Nitron, Tenifer and the like, but any advice would be appreciated. I'd be interested in hearing the opinion of Mr. Lobo, since I know you have applied Neatsfoot Oil to your holsters since the days of brand-new gloss blued guns, therefore I figured you could be able to tell me if you ever saw any issues with nice blued Colts and Smiths in holsters that have been conditioned with Neatsfoot oil.

 

Also, any recommendations for alternatives to Neatsfoot oil that aren't acidic are appreciated. I know some use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, which is relatively PH neutral, and I've also considered using the Bickmore Exotic Conditioner that I use on my boots, although I've never heard of it being used on a holster. 

 

Thank you in advance for any advice. 

[chuck123wapati]

Cmon man dont overthink this lol. There are no problems with nfo its been used for centuries on holsters with guns of all types of bluing. But you can use almost any oil, as time and human history have proven. I use a light brushing of nfo then a good helping of Feibings Golden mink oil for conditioning and water resistance. Olive oil is also used regularly also so use it if you want. Boot waterproofings and dressing aree relly good for any leather gear, used outdoors or inside. 

This is off the net and provided by Artificial intelligence if you have decided to believe that over actual written human history. AS you can see, NFo is less acidic than the leather you are putting it on.

 "The pH range of neatsfoot oil is typically between 5.5 to 7.5, which is slightly acidic to neutral. This characteristic helps in conditioning and preserving leather."   

 

"The pH of vegetable-tanned leather typically ranges from 3.5 to 5.5, which is slightly acidic. This acidity helps preserve the leather and contributes to its durability and aging characteristics."

 

Free acidity is a defect of olive oil that is tasteless and odorless, thus can not be detected by sensory analysis. Since vegetable oils are not aqueous fluids, a pH-meter can not be used for this measure. Various approaches exist that can measure oil acidity with good accuracy.

ALso,   The acidity of olive oil refers to the level of free fatty acids present, which is an important quality indicator. Extra virgin olive oil must have a free acidity of less than 0.8%, while virgin olive oil ranges from 0.8% to 2%, and higher acidity levels indicate lower quality oils

Edited yesterday at 11:13 AM by chuck123wapati

[TonyV]

There will (should) be gun oil on the firearm. Gun oils vary between slightly base to slightly acid.  The slight difference in pH between leather and gun oil will be negligible.  There really is no need to oil the inside of the holster, as some of the gun oil will transfer to the leather.  Protecting the gun is the higher priority here and guns should NOT be stored in the holster when not in use.   Normal application of NFO during your work process is adequate.  It is the new owner's responsibility to keep the holster cleaned and conditioned and the gun oiled.

[Latigo Smith]

Yes, I know most people would classify this as overthinking, but I try to keep the exposure of my guns to acids and salts as low as reasonably achievable, to borrow an existing acronym. Also, in my way of thinking, just because people have used something for a long time, that doesn't necessarily mean that it won't cause problems. Case in point is the fact that holsters with chrome-tan suede linings have been used extensively with blued and nickel guns for decades by people thinking that the suede is protecting their fine gun finishes, when it is in fact abrading their finishes and exposing their guns to chromium salts. 

 

I do of course use oil on my guns, namely Ballistol, which has a PH of 8-8.5, making it entirely alkaline. For an unlined holster, I wouldn't apply Neatsfoot oil to the interior of the holster, only to the hair side, as the oil will level out through the entire thickness of the leather. But for a lined holster comprised of two layers of veg-tan, SOP is an extra light application on both the inside and outside, since the holster is made of two layers of leather separated by contact cement. 

 

I also meant to ask if any of you have used Ballistol to condition a holster before finishing, as the cans of Ballistol list leather conditioning as one of it's uses. I know a lot of people say not to use petroleum products like mineral oil, which is Ballistol's primary ingredient, as a leather conditioner, but I figured someone here has probably used Ballistol to condition a holster. 

Edited 10 hours ago by Latigo Smith

[chuck123wapati]

2 hours ago, Latigo Smith said:

Yes, I know most people would classify this as overthinking, but I try to keep the exposure of my guns to acids and salts as low as reasonably achievable, to borrow an existing acronym. Also, in my way of thinking, just because people have used something for a long time, that doesn't necessarily mean that it won't cause problems. Case in point is the fact that holsters with chrome-tan suede linings have been used extensively with blued and nickel guns for decades by people thinking that the suede is protecting their fine gun finishes, when it is in fact abrading their finishes and exposing their guns to chromium salts. 

 

I do of course use oil on my guns, namely Ballistol, which has a PH of 8-8.5, making it entirely alkaline. For an unlined holster, I wouldn't apply Neatsfoot oil to the interior of the holster, only to the hair side, as the oil will level out through the entire thickness of the leather. But for a lined holster comprised of two layers of veg-tan, SOP is an extra light application on both the inside and outside, since the holster is made of two layers of leather separated by contact cement. 

 

I also meant to ask if any of you have used Ballistol to condition a holster before finishing, as the cans of Ballistol list leather conditioning as one of it's uses. I know a lot of people say not to use petroleum products like mineral oil, which is Ballistol's primary ingredient, as a leather conditioner, but I figured someone here has probably used Ballistol to condition a holster. 

 

So pure water is good for your guns? Its pH is 7. See what I'm sayin, PH is only part of the equation. your trying to protect your weapon from ????? oxidation/rust and abrasive action/wear more so than ph. A razor strop, for example, is oiled leather just like your holster, and the oil can be ph 7, it will still polish a blade or wear the finish on your fine firearm if done enough times.

But someone had to try it to see if it worked, so we don't have to now !! Lol, Guns and leather, and oils of every kind have shared the world far longer than either of us, and those who shared the world with them through the ages have found the answers long before we ever drew a breath; that's why you know about the problems with chrome tan, it isn't a new discovery either. 

To answer your question.

I use balistol on my guns, really good stuff and highly recommended by Hickok 45 lol,  I'm sure I'm as picky about my firearms as you or anyone else is.  I don't use it on leather because it's not a gun and its to expensive. You can if you want to its just an oil. so might make your holster soft if you use too much because that what oils do to leather, no matter what type of oil it is.

Life is good!!

[TonyV]

Ballistol is my go-to CLP for all my guns.  Its relatively high pH counters the acidity of rust quite well.  I see no need to use NFO on the inside of my holsters aside from the initial conditioning in construction.  Yes, I use a light application of NFO before assembly to condition the leather, but that's all.   I have never encountered any issues of corrosion or rust, nor dry leather inside the holster. 

Incidentally, I grit my teeth any time someone recommends using suede to line holsters.  I don't want the fuzzies getting into the works of my handguns.  Some claim the suede helps in retention.  I disagree.  The fuzzies soon wear away, some of it into your gun.  Chrome tanned suede is corrosive.  Best to line the holster with veg tan and use wet molding and/or physical retainers like a strap, flap or chicago screws to secure the gun.