Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • CFM
Posted

My question... Does it matter how the thread is taken off the spool? Does one-way cause the thread to twist more than the other? 

I am asking because I know there is a proper way to spool a fishing reel, so line twist doesn't happen. Is it the same with sewing machines, or does it even matter?

Anyway i built this spool stand for my new-to-me Boss after I noticed the line twisted up going through the first whachmajiggy. The machine came with the wire thing above the spool method.

BTW i have to say this machine and all the accessories were given to and shipped to my house by one of our forum members for free. Can you believe that? he messaged me, thinking I was closer than I really was, and offered me the machine if I could pick it up, but when we realized the distance was so far, he shipped it to me. I can't tell you all how much I appreciate it, and at a time when I really need it. Arthritis is giving me the fits, so hand sewing really isn't fun anymore. 

boss1.JPG

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

  • Contributing Member
Posted

Have fun with that machine, Chuck. As far as the thread goes, I have no idea. I would imagine you'll find out soon enough once you start using the machine.

Posted (edited)

I think it would do much better coming off the top, going straight up for a bit and then over to the thread path.  Then the spool doesn't spin.

Edited by FrankHester
Posted

Going up would be best I think. Not for presumed thread twist, but for consistency of thread tension: if it comes off the top, there is virtually no phantom tension (more correctly: the phantom tension is small and constant) and the actual tension is set by the tension screw/plate on the machine. If the thread comes off the side, you'd have a phantom tension related to the weight of the spool (which diminishes as more thread is taken off) that you'd need to correct for by adjusting the thread tension screw on the machine. And that while the spool becomes lighter and also each time you switch spools, even if the thread thickness stays the same.

  • CFM
Posted
42 minutes ago, Samalan said:

Have fun with that machine, Chuck. As far as the thread goes, I have no idea. I would imagine you'll find out soon enough once you start using the machine.

Oh i am having fun, I'm still wrapping my head around being able to sew with no real preparation lol. 

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

  • Members
Posted

I always wondered the same thing as your trying. After some thought and some trial I'm convinced it would work alright if the spool stand had a bearing maybe? Without a bearing I'm pretty sure it should draw from the top?

I took all my tread spools of different colors and sizes and placed them all on a shelf then screwed some perforated  angle iron to the wall above them so I can draw from any spool with very little time setting up. 

Good luck with that machine. 

  • CFM
Posted
45 minutes ago, FrankHester said:

I think it would do much better coming off the top, going straight up for a bit and then over to the thread path.  Then the spool doesn't spin.

 

37 minutes ago, Digit said:

Going up would be best I think. Not for presumed thread twist, but for consistency of thread tension: if it comes off the top, there is virtually no phantom tension (more correctly: the phantom tension is small and constant) and the actual tension is set by the tension screw/plate on the machine. If the thread comes off the side, you'd have a phantom tension related to the weight of the spool (which diminishes as more thread is taken off) that you'd need to correct for by adjusting the thread tension screw on the machine. And that while the spool becomes lighter and also each time you switch spools, even if the thread thickness stays the same.

But if the phantom tension doesn't change, then it's controllable and not a problem, really. I mean, the small machines pull from the side. and wouldnt every loop off the top add one turn or maybe take one turn away from your thread?

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

Posted
2 minutes ago, Thadrick said:

it would work alright if the spool stand had a bearing maybe?

The thread pull from the spool is not constant, it consists of short jerks; if the bearing would reduce resistance to an absolute minimum the spool would start to spin on the first jerk and keep unwinding, making a big tangle of thread.

4 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

the small machines pull from the side

I only have my household machine to go by and that one pulls from the top too (the spool is fixed horizontally). Household spools are much lighter in weight too.

6 minutes ago, chuck123wapati said:

wouldnt every loop off the top add one turn or maybe take one turn away from your thread?

Yes it would. I suppose that's taken into account in the thread spin and the winding direction on the spool.

I can only say that after a long stretch of sewing I have never experienced the thread 'unspinning' at the needle. It has frayed for other reasons though :lol: mostly because of incorrect needle thickness.

I do know that I don't have to adjust thread tension when I switch thread colors, simply because of the weight of the spool. But that's only of consideration if you often switch colors; if you stick to one color and use that spool after spool, it won't make much of a difference.

My best suggestion to to find out for yourself by testing and making things and evaluating stitch quality.

  • CFM
Posted
4 minutes ago, Thadrick said:

I always wondered the same thing as your trying. After some thought and some trial I'm convinced it would work alright if the spool stand had a bearing maybe? Without a bearing I'm pretty sure it should draw from the top?

I took all my tread spools of different colors and sizes and placed them all on a shelf then screwed some perforated  angle iron to the wall above them so I can draw from any spool with very little time setting up. 

Good luck with that machine. 

maybe a bearing... The small home machines use felt pads to help control the spool tension. I have some time now, finally, to play with the machine more, so I will try some things. The darn thing still skips a stitch now and then, but I think it's just the nut on the handle. 🤪

Worked in a prison for 30 years if I aint shiny every time I comment its no big deal, I just don't wave pompoms.

“I won’t be wronged, I won’t be insulted, and I won’t be laid a hand on. I don’t do these things to other people, and I require the same from them.” THE DUKE!

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...