jbradford Report post Posted January 22, 2009 This picture probably shows better what I'm trying to figure out. This is my second attempt at this sheath design. I've glued the leather together and clamped it. Once dry, I've been hand stitching the leather together. Is there a more proper way of doing this? I've just tried to kinda figure it out. I'm not confident right now that it will stay together and keep the edge clean where it will look like one piece of leather once it it burnished and waxed (which I'm also still trying to figure out). One my first one, after I was through stitching, I took it to the grinder. It worked fairly well, except where I ground too far and almost got into the stitching! (OK, I did in one spot!). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CitizenKate Report post Posted January 22, 2009 Overall, that looks like a fairly good approach. You don't mention the type of adhesive you use, but the clamps may be unnecessary if you use something that makes an instant bond like rubber cement. On the other hand, the rubber cement may not hold those small, stiff pieces well enough. It does not need to be a permanent bond, just strong enough to hold the parts together until sewn. Maybe wet-molding them to get them more in the shape they need to go for stitching will make the sticking power of the adhesive less of a requirement. As far as matching the edges so they blend when burnished, I think you may find that just sanding the edges will work a little better than the grinder. Slightly better control over where and how much of the material gets removed. I'm sure others will chime up here, shortly... these are just some ideas... hope this helps. Kate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted January 22, 2009 My self being a beginner as well will tell you what I did when I made my gerber tool/ maglight cases. Since they were allways the same size and such I would match up where I wanted to stitch. Then I would run the wheel over the lines to get my stitching and then prepunch the holes. Trial and error but after two of them I had it down. Now I would case the leather enough so that I could bend and flex it but not wet enough for true wet forming. I would put everything where it needed to go and stitch it all together. No glue or clamps, I had too prepunch the holes for this though. Once it was all stitched I would dye it and all that stuff but you could dye before hand as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted January 22, 2009 What you're doing there is pretty much what I do. If you really want to get a real good seal on the edge, cut it a hint longer than you need and then glue it down and clamp. Stitch it all up. Once that's done, cut the excess edge off and finish edges like you'd normally do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted January 22, 2009 I would contact cement that. Clamps can leave marks. Apply the cement and let it dry. Apply a second thin coat. Let it dry. Assemble carefully (You only get one shot). Take a flatting hammer or tamper and press in all the areas that are glued to make certain they they have a contact bond. Let it cure a little bit and then go ahead and sew it. Good contact cement like Barge will not release so you can be confident that you can get it sewn and have as strong a connection as possible. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted January 22, 2009 (edited) I would contact cement that. Clamps can leave marks. Apply the cement and let it dry. Apply a second thin coat. Let it dry. Assemble carefully (You only get one shot). Take a flatting hammer or tamper and press in all the areas that are glued to make certain they they have a contact bond. Let it cure a little bit and then go ahead and sew it.Good contact cement like Barge will not release so you can be confident that you can get it sewn and have as strong a connection as possible. True straight clamps leave marks. But properly lined hinged clamps work wonders. I use these Craftsman brand ratcheting clamps, lined with a flat square of leather. They were $14 for a set of 4 (two different sizes): I wish I would have gotten a pic of my setup sooner. I just got done boxing my tools for shipping so I can't get to them to demonstrate Edited January 22, 2009 by Shorts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted January 22, 2009 True straight clamps leave marks. But properly lined hinged clamps work wonders. I use these Craftsman brand ratcheting clamps, lined with a flat square of leather. They were $14 for a set of 4 (two different sizes): I wish I would have gotten a pic of my setup sooner. I just got done boxing my tools for shipping so I can't get to them to demonstrate Yep those would be good with the leather square in there. The problem is that you can't distribute the pressure uniformly across all of the area that needs to be glued. Woodworkers use cauls to help distribute pressure. But that really won't help in this case. I like contact cement because I don't have to apply pressure across the entire area to be glued at one and the same time. I can run a tamper across it section by section and know that I have a rock solid bond. Anyways that's my $.02. They are nice clamps!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted January 22, 2009 You're right on about the area of pressure. I only use them for the small immediate areas. When I have to do big areas of flat, I use my old college textbooks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
