finishes for products subject to outdoor use and rain

[MsDragonfly]

What finshes and application process of them are best to apply to holster subject to being in the rain and keep the holster's finish looking nice when they dry out with out the water blemishes and blistered look?? I have tried: All applied by hand/whiped on.

leather balm & atom wax-looks great but when wet leaves water marks or blisters.

leather balm & atom wax then 2 coates of tuff kote- seems work good so far but i worry if the tuff kote will hold over the leather balm & atom wax.

Plain 2 coats of tuff kote-seems good too.

Resolene which stinks as it inconsistant and leaves streaks or crack some times.

super and satin shenes-not sure if its what I need either for the water testing of rain.

What are you folks who make products subject to weather, wetness using and how do you apply it??Thanks***LisA

p.s. SORRY FOR ALL THE QUESTIONS BUT i AM GETTING FRUSTRATED.

[Luke Hatley]

Do a search for "Montana Pitch Blend" or another product called"Skidmores"

both of them have Bees Wax in them. This might be your other choice to try.

my 2 cents..

[MADMAX22]

snoseal also works pretty darn good and contains bee's wax. Ive had good luck with it so far.

[MsDragonfly]

snoseal also works pretty darn good and contains bee's wax. Ive had good luck with it so far.

Do I add the snow seal and other stuff mentioned after the finishes are applied or just use it as a finish?***Lisa

[K-Man]

I use the acrylic finish from Angelus. I dip the holster in the bucket and then "wick" off the excess. I've done approximately 4000+ holsters that way and have never had a problem.

[MsDragonfly]

Hey thanks guys!!!!! I will try both. I actually just spoke with a friend out west who swears by the Montana Pitch Blend products....he has used it for years on all his outdoor products. He tells me that it is far superior to any leather finish and treatment products out there and very user friendly. Thanks again you guys.***Lisa

[Art]

The Montana Pitchblend paste has beeswax, the oil does not. They both have Mink Oil. I also use Pecard's which works well. Both of these products also "breathe" which is good. Any of the acrylic finishes will also seal something up pretty good. Do both sides.

Art

Hey thanks guys!!!!! I will try both. I actually just spoke with a friend out west who swears by the Montana Pitch Blend products....he has used it for years on all his outdoor products. He tells me that it is far superior to any leather finish and treatment products out there and very user friendly. Thanks again you guys.***Lisa

[Leerwerker]

Dr Jacksons hide rejuvenator is my choice - it has all the fats and oils and beeswax to seal your leather and depending on the leather, it can even get the feel of an oil-tan.

The acrylic finishes like super sheen can wear off, but stay a long time. The natural creams, like skidmore and dr jackson's need to be applied every six months or so, depending on how you use the leather and how dry it gets.

Always educate the people you make leather articles for that they should continue to feed and care for the leather. Most people do not know this and only realize when it is too late and their leather is dry and brittle...

Hope that helps.

[Art]

On the other hand, you get those folks who get the impression that if a little oil is good then a lot is better. Oil after every use will destroy faster than no oil at all. Oil sparingly only when needed, six month in dry climate and a year in others, that's when you check to see if it needs oil.

Art

Dr Jacksons hide rejuvenator is my choice - it has all the fats and oils and beeswax to seal your leather and depending on the leather, it can even get the feel of an oil-tan.

The acrylic finishes like super sheen can wear off, but stay a long time. The natural creams, like skidmore and dr jackson's need to be applied every six months or so, depending on how you use the leather and how dry it gets.

Always educate the people you make leather articles for that they should continue to feed and care for the leather. Most people do not know this and only realize when it is too late and their leather is dry and brittle...

Hope that helps.

[Leerwerker]

This is very important, Art! I have heard quite a few horror stories of people bring their saddles (that had been soaked in oil) to saddlemakers to 'fix'.

The leather chemists also advised, not only to use oil sparingly, but avoid mineral oil and stick to plant or animal oils only.

[Question here: if that is true, why do people use the neatsfoot oil compound instead of the pure???]