How can I improve?

[woolfe]

Please be blunt, and don't be afraid to offend me. This is my 2nd leatherrorking project ever. I'm having so much fun with this new hobby I'm about to start selling them on eBay.

Materials used:

Tandy 6-7 oz cheap leather.

Fiebings light brown dye

Fiebings Resolene 50/50 dip (1 coat)

Neatsfoot oil (only used on the belt loops)

Kiwi Neutral shoe polish (1 coat)

T-nut 6-32 from Homedepot

6-32 scews from Mcmaster

#8 countersunk washers

Tandy line 24 snaps

I know of one thing I need to improve on and I'm not sure how. The Dye appears to have a little bit of a marble look to it where you can see black through it. This first appeared after dyeing, the finish only amplified it. I cleaned the leather with Iso Alcohol before dyeing. Any ideas of how to remedy this for next time would be greatly appreciated.

[MADMAX22]

Looks really good to me, maybe work on the edges a little bit but over all really nice.

When I say edges I am talking about on the straps, just look a bit rough,

Edited January 30, 2009 by MADMAX22

[rhall]

Looks good edges could use a little work but overall good!it's only your second project?you will do fine I can see that for sure!

[woolfe]

Yep 2nd project. I didn't spend much time on the loops, yeah they are rough, thanks for pointing that out! The holster edges are allot better. I made an edge burnishing thing for my dremel tool out of an oak dowel from homedepot.

[tashabear]

  woolfe said:

I made an edge burnishing thing for my dremel tool out of an oak dowel from homedepot.

How did you do that? I have a Dremel Stylus and would love to speed up the edge burnishing process.

[woolfe]

  tashabear said:

How did you do that? I have a Dremel Stylus and would love to speed up the edge burnishing process.

I cut off a small piece of the wooden dowel. Drilled a small hole in the end and hammered in a piece of steel rod, also from homedepot. Then I took some files and grinded on the dowel as it was spinning on the dremel until it was in the shape I wanted.

[JRB]

Looks good. Pretty well defined lines on molding/boning.

How did you do your tensioner?

Edited January 31, 2009 by JRB

[woolfe]

  JRB said:

Looks good. Pretty well defined lines on molding/boning.

How did you do your tensioner?

3/4" 6-32 screw, #8 washers, a modified 6-32 T-nut, and black rubber hose from Autozone

[Lobo]

Very nice looking work. Minor details already addressed, and I expect your future projects will continue to improve.

On the dying, I suggest thinning your dye then using 2 or 3 light applications. This usually results in a more uniform coloring with the brown shades. I have had good results using dye cut with about 50% isopropyl alcohol, then applied with a spray bottle, but I'm sure that a small sponge would work as well.

By the way, Tandy doesn't sell any "cheap" leather; their prices are always just about as high as the market will bear! Their leather may not be of the best quality, but their prices are always "retail". I have found that single shoulders can be very economical, priced lower per square foot than double shoulders because they are not large enough to cut belts or long straps. Usually about 7 square feet in size, each will make 8 or 10 holsters like you have displayed. Look at eLeatherSupply (877-433-8468), their 6-7 oz. single shoulders are only $39.95 each, and the quality is good (occasional fleshy spots in the undersides, I save those areas for making lined holsters where it won't be a problem), typical grade markings are .060, which is actually a lot closer to 8 oz. than 7 oz.

I wish the internet, and forums like this, had existed back when I started doing this stuff. Trial and error was the only learning method for me! You are doing just fine! Don't sweat the small stuff, you'll just keep getting better and better.

[woolfe]

  Lobo said:

Very nice looking work. Minor details already addressed, and I expect your future projects will continue to improve.

On the dying, I suggest thinning your dye then using 2 or 3 light applications. This usually results in a more uniform coloring with the brown shades. I have had good results using dye cut with about 50% isopropyl alcohol, then applied with a spray bottle, but I'm sure that a small sponge would work as well.

By the way, Tandy doesn't sell any "cheap" leather; their prices are always just about as high as the market will bear! Their leather may not be of the best quality, but their prices are always "retail". I have found that single shoulders can be very economical, priced lower per square foot than double shoulders because they are not large enough to cut belts or long straps. Usually about 7 square feet in size, each will make 8 or 10 holsters like you have displayed. Look at eLeatherSupply (877-433-8468), their 6-7 oz. single shoulders are only $39.95 each, and the quality is good (occasional fleshy spots in the undersides, I save those areas for making lined holsters where it won't be a problem), typical grade markings are .060, which is actually a lot closer to 8 oz. than 7 oz.

I wish the internet, and forums like this, had existed back when I started doing this stuff. Trial and error was the only learning method for me! You are doing just fine! Don't sweat the small stuff, you'll just keep getting better and better.

Thanks Lobo!!! you always give really good advice. I will check out eLeatherSupply, by cheap leather I ment it was the lower quality stuff. I cleaned out an old spray bottle and I'm going to give that a shot. I really appriciate you taking the time to help out!