woolfe Report post Posted January 30, 2009 Please be blunt, and don't be afraid to offend me. This is my 2nd leatherrorking project ever. I'm having so much fun with this new hobby I'm about to start selling them on eBay. Materials used: Tandy 6-7 oz cheap leather. Fiebings light brown dye Fiebings Resolene 50/50 dip (1 coat) Neatsfoot oil (only used on the belt loops) Kiwi Neutral shoe polish (1 coat) T-nut 6-32 from Homedepot 6-32 scews from Mcmaster #8 countersunk washers Tandy line 24 snaps I know of one thing I need to improve on and I'm not sure how. The Dye appears to have a little bit of a marble look to it where you can see black through it. This first appeared after dyeing, the finish only amplified it. I cleaned the leather with Iso Alcohol before dyeing. Any ideas of how to remedy this for next time would be greatly appreciated. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) Looks really good to me, maybe work on the edges a little bit but over all really nice. When I say edges I am talking about on the straps, just look a bit rough, Edited January 30, 2009 by MADMAX22 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rhall Report post Posted January 30, 2009 Looks good edges could use a little work but overall good!it's only your second project?you will do fine I can see that for sure! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted January 30, 2009 Yep 2nd project. I didn't spend much time on the loops, yeah they are rough, thanks for pointing that out! The holster edges are allot better. I made an edge burnishing thing for my dremel tool out of an oak dowel from homedepot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted January 30, 2009 I made an edge burnishing thing for my dremel tool out of an oak dowel from homedepot. How did you do that? I have a Dremel Stylus and would love to speed up the edge burnishing process. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted January 30, 2009 How did you do that? I have a Dremel Stylus and would love to speed up the edge burnishing process. I cut off a small piece of the wooden dowel. Drilled a small hole in the end and hammered in a piece of steel rod, also from homedepot. Then I took some files and grinded on the dowel as it was spinning on the dremel until it was in the shape I wanted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted January 31, 2009 (edited) Looks good. Pretty well defined lines on molding/boning. How did you do your tensioner? Edited January 31, 2009 by JRB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted January 31, 2009 Looks good. Pretty well defined lines on molding/boning.How did you do your tensioner? 3/4" 6-32 screw, #8 washers, a modified 6-32 T-nut, and black rubber hose from Autozone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted January 31, 2009 Very nice looking work. Minor details already addressed, and I expect your future projects will continue to improve. On the dying, I suggest thinning your dye then using 2 or 3 light applications. This usually results in a more uniform coloring with the brown shades. I have had good results using dye cut with about 50% isopropyl alcohol, then applied with a spray bottle, but I'm sure that a small sponge would work as well. By the way, Tandy doesn't sell any "cheap" leather; their prices are always just about as high as the market will bear! Their leather may not be of the best quality, but their prices are always "retail". I have found that single shoulders can be very economical, priced lower per square foot than double shoulders because they are not large enough to cut belts or long straps. Usually about 7 square feet in size, each will make 8 or 10 holsters like you have displayed. Look at eLeatherSupply (877-433-8468), their 6-7 oz. single shoulders are only $39.95 each, and the quality is good (occasional fleshy spots in the undersides, I save those areas for making lined holsters where it won't be a problem), typical grade markings are .060, which is actually a lot closer to 8 oz. than 7 oz. I wish the internet, and forums like this, had existed back when I started doing this stuff. Trial and error was the only learning method for me! You are doing just fine! Don't sweat the small stuff, you'll just keep getting better and better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted February 2, 2009 Very nice looking work. Minor details already addressed, and I expect your future projects will continue to improve.On the dying, I suggest thinning your dye then using 2 or 3 light applications. This usually results in a more uniform coloring with the brown shades. I have had good results using dye cut with about 50% isopropyl alcohol, then applied with a spray bottle, but I'm sure that a small sponge would work as well. By the way, Tandy doesn't sell any "cheap" leather; their prices are always just about as high as the market will bear! Their leather may not be of the best quality, but their prices are always "retail". I have found that single shoulders can be very economical, priced lower per square foot than double shoulders because they are not large enough to cut belts or long straps. Usually about 7 square feet in size, each will make 8 or 10 holsters like you have displayed. Look at eLeatherSupply (877-433-8468), their 6-7 oz. single shoulders are only $39.95 each, and the quality is good (occasional fleshy spots in the undersides, I save those areas for making lined holsters where it won't be a problem), typical grade markings are .060, which is actually a lot closer to 8 oz. than 7 oz. I wish the internet, and forums like this, had existed back when I started doing this stuff. Trial and error was the only learning method for me! You are doing just fine! Don't sweat the small stuff, you'll just keep getting better and better. Thanks Lobo!!! you always give really good advice. I will check out eLeatherSupply, by cheap leather I ment it was the lower quality stuff. I cleaned out an old spray bottle and I'm going to give that a shot. I really appriciate you taking the time to help out! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UKRay Report post Posted February 2, 2009 Very nice looking work. Minor details already addressed, and I expect your future projects will continue to improve.I wish the internet, and forums like this, had existed back when I started doing this stuff. Trial and error was the only learning method for me! You are doing just fine! Don't sweat the small stuff, you'll just keep getting better and better. What Lobo said... Nice job. It is hard to believe you have only just started out - watch out guys, we have a live one here! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
badger Report post Posted February 2, 2009 I agree Ray, he knows too much............... Karl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gicts Report post Posted February 2, 2009 How did you attach the snaps/belt loops? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted February 2, 2009 Thanks for the nice comments!!! How did you attach the snaps/belt loops? I posted some pictures in the IWB straps thread for you. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted February 2, 2009 Where did you get your hardware? I want to locate some of the black finished hardware but didn't see the "cup" washers like you used in black at McMaster-Carr. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted February 2, 2009 (edited) Where did you get your hardware? I want to locate some of the black finished hardware but didn't see the "cup" washers like you used in black at McMaster-Carr. Mcmaster has them. here is a link. Black counter sunk washers hmm, it wont let me link to it.. but here is the part number 92918A135 Edited February 2, 2009 by woolfe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SouthernHolsters Report post Posted February 2, 2009 One word of caution if you plan on the selling holsters. Out of respect for Nossar Gunleather, I would not use that "foot print" as your logo. You can check out the site here. I replied on your other topic about adding leather washers. One way to overcome the dye issue is to apply the dye with an airbrush. Other than that, it looks pretty good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted February 2, 2009 Mcmaster has them. here is a link.Black counter sunk washers hmm, it wont let me link to it.. but here is the part number 92918A135 Guess I just missed it. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woolfe Report post Posted February 2, 2009 One word of caution if you plan on the selling holsters. Out of respect for Nossar Gunleather, I would not use that "foot print" as your logo. You can check out the site here.I replied on your other topic about adding leather washers. One way to overcome the dye issue is to apply the dye with an airbrush. Other than that, it looks pretty good. ahh crap, Thank you very much for pointing that out. The foot print stamp was a generic stamp from tandy, I had no idea someone was already using it. Maybe I can file it down and alter it enough so it wont appear to be the same. I dunno, I'll think of something. Thank you very much, you prevented a huge future problem for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gicts Report post Posted February 3, 2009 Thanks for the nice comments!!!I posted some pictures in the IWB straps thread for you. your the man! Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
