Curbstrap2 Report post Posted February 11, 2009 I had been way for a bit and found that my vintage Wyeth Saddle had endured a leaky water pipe. I have it out in the fresh air, out of direct sunlight to dry. Suggestions on how to remove the fuzzy mold from the roughout and clean/condition the saddle? Thanks for any help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
grumpyguy Report post Posted February 20, 2009 Curbstrap, I have had similar experience, I foolishly stored a saddle in the basment which occasionally leaked. I found part of my saddle with a light coating of mold from the dampness. I just used saddle soap alot of elbow grease and then set the saddle in front of the fireplace for a couple of days. When fully warm and dry, I used neatsfoot oil on it. This was about four or so years ago. I since have taken care to see that it is stored in drier conditions. Today you would not even be able to tell. I have friend who left a saddle in a trailer for a month and had the same problem, he discovered his mistake and used saddle soap and then Leathernew. His came out okay too. It happens but we usually learn from those mistakes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted February 20, 2009 Brush of the mold from the surface and then wipe the sadlle down with plain old white vineger to kill the mold spores. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kfiretwo Report post Posted February 27, 2009 I had been way for a bit and found that my vintage Wyeth Saddle had endured a leaky water pipe. I have it out in the fresh air, out of direct sunlight to dry. Suggestions on how to remove the fuzzy mold from the roughout and clean/condition the saddle?Thanks for any help! curb I restored an old coggleshall saddle that my father got in the early 40's than sold it in the 60's to a guy that just kept it in a wet barn, I found this saddle in 98 it hasnt seen the light of day since the mid 70 s at least it was in real bad shape for the sheep skin was ate away from setting on a 55 gal steel barrel n rusting, the leather was rolled under like a bed roll if u tried to move the leather it would crack. I contacted an saddle shop in amish country n the gentleman told me to soak it in murrys oil soap and hot water till the leather soften up. then clean the mold n dirt off with a strong mixture of murrys n hot water, it would kill the mold n some what restore the oil in the leather, he made sure he passed on the info to take the saddle apart to make sure it was clean n dry underneath, he said most peeps clean the top of the saddle but not under the skirt or event the seat when restoring a saddle, you want to hose off with clean water a couple of times let air dry, when it was nearly dry he told me to rub in bear grease from the back side n let the sun warm up the leather to draw the grease up thru, make sure the sun isnt so hot it cracks the leather, than you just keep adding a light coat of saddle soap as needed to keep clean Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TOM123 Report post Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) do not put oil on the ruff side of the leather it will collect dirt and flatten the nap if you have dirt in the nap you can use sand paper to clean it out and raise the nap again, use 100 to 120 grit rub easy Edited February 27, 2009 by TOM123 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted February 27, 2009 he told me to rub in bear grease from the back side Now.... where did I put that dang bear grease?.......... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saddlebag Report post Posted March 21, 2009 UM...HMM which part of the bear produces the best grease as come bear hunting season this fall I could probably get some. Would you believe it's slipperier than lard?? I once wrapped bear meat and it slid all over the butcher wrap, made my hands so greasy I could hardly wrap and then when I tried to wash it off...........good luck! I wasn't real fond of the smell either but perhaps just the grease is ok. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FatbackSlim Report post Posted March 22, 2009 (edited) Take your bear fat and put it in a crock pot and fill until it covers the fat a few inches. Turn the pot on medium heat and slowly render the fat. After the mass of fat has shrank turn off the crock pot and allow it to cool. The resulting oil can then be dipped off and kept in glass jars for use. Edited March 22, 2009 by FatbackSlim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saddlebag Report post Posted April 12, 2009 I moldy saddle just arrived at my shop for 3 years of improper storage. The owner wants me to repair one stirrup strap which broke but upon carefully examining the leather I won't do that. Both should be replaced. The straps are only 2" wide and in some places less than 1/8" thick, add the mildew and it's an accident waiting to happen. I need to call her about replacing both sides, for her safety. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TOM123 Report post Posted April 14, 2009 becarefull with mold in your shop will will spread every ware and is hard to get it out of the shop KILL the mold before you bring it in side. search mold on this sit and see all the problems others have had. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Suze Report post Posted April 14, 2009 can you do the major clean work on it outside? One thing that I have done when working with something that is very dirty is find some clear garbage bags and work on the thing INSIDE the bag - that contains most of the "dirt" don't know if you could find a bag big enough for a saddle though. I was going through attic stuff that way - unwrapping dishes that had been wrapped since 1957 (newspaper date) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites