Hennessy Posted February 14, 2009 Report Posted February 14, 2009 Art,Thanks. I have been playing around with the tubular rivets and don't like the looks of them...the heads are flat and boring and the back side that star splits look crappy too, though they are strong not what I like. Not sure what a burr rivet is? I have the jiffy rivets from Ohio Travel Bag and was told the hand press from tandy can help set them so I bought the hand press tool, from tandy, to help set them better. Hammering them was giving me fit after fit....they would let loose, easily pull loose and/or I'd smash them all kinds of weird...LOL. Anyways, now i need help setting up this hand press. But back to main topic here, on my sheaths and stuff...should I stop my stitching say about 7/16" from the top of sheath and place the 3/8" head sized rivets in there or sew to top and rivet along side of stitching? Hope I make sense. Sometimes I confuse myself...LOL!****Lisa on various stuff where i dont want contrast i've call'd on me shoe repair tricks,a domed brass clinch nail.sew th line in last hole put the right length brass clinch nail ,drive it on an anvil the underside burrs over tight and it holds,i wouldn't use it on a place that will have strain or pull tho,the nails come in various length at a shoe find outlet pete Quote
Members Daggrim Posted February 15, 2009 Members Report Posted February 15, 2009 Okay, so if I'm copper riveting leather that's between 1/2 and 3/8" total thickness , how long should my rivet be? Is it standard procedure to nip them off? And, how much rivet do you need sticking out in order to set the burr and peen the rivet? I'm gonna give this a try. Dag Quote
Members tonyc1 Posted February 15, 2009 Members Report Posted February 15, 2009 You don't want too much sticking out, just a Millipoof will do!!! Tony. Quote
Members Daggrim Posted February 15, 2009 Members Report Posted February 15, 2009 Is that the same as a smidgeon? So then , is it SOP to nip them off to get them just right? Quote
Members tonyc1 Posted February 15, 2009 Members Report Posted February 15, 2009 No, it's more like a terch. Quote
Moderator Art Posted February 15, 2009 Moderator Report Posted February 15, 2009 I generally only buy 1" or 3/4", you set the burr on them then nip them off to 1/8", then peen them over. Art Is that the same as a smidgeon? So then , is it SOP to nip them off to get them just right? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Hennessy Posted February 15, 2009 Report Posted February 15, 2009 I generally only buy 1" or 3/4", you set the burr on them then nip them off to 1/8", then peen them over.Art i've allways gone with an eighth,when setting ,i also used a steel anvil and [forgive me]a ball pein hammer and kinda pat pat patted a pretty dome over th washer peining i guess .i bought a rivet setter in oz in68 and have wore it down to 1 inch 3 times hitting steel on steelbut i felt i got the best dome that way n stayed with it pete Quote
Members Daggrim Posted February 15, 2009 Members Report Posted February 15, 2009 OK guys, that's what I needed to know. Gonna order some 3/4" #14s from Weaver. So, I'll nip off about 1/8". Is that practical, or should I just order 1" rivets? Quote
Members Raven Posted February 15, 2009 Members Report Posted February 15, 2009 I'd say get 1", you can always cut them back but it's hard to add length if you need it and the price is usually quite similar. Quote Wassail! Raven
Moderator Art Posted February 16, 2009 Moderator Report Posted February 16, 2009 And don't nip any off until you set the burr washer, the ends are tapered so the washer goes on easily. Get the 1" for your app. Art OK guys, that's what I needed to know. Gonna order some 3/4" #14s from Weaver. So, I'll nip off about 1/8". Is that practical, or should I just order 1" rivets? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
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