Members woolfe Posted March 4, 2009 Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 (edited) How many people use this technique for holsters? How many of you using this technique use it on your own personal holsters? "Chrome tanned leather- Chromium salts used in the tanning process can and do react with the bluing agents used on firearms, causing the appearance of surface rust. These should be avoided." I pulled this out of the John Henry holster making sticky... I don't see how vinegaroon can be considered any safer. Leather tends to trap moisture and if reagents are present that accelerate the oxidation process how is this safe? I've been playing with vinegaroon and I absolutly love how easy and cheap it is to use. I do stain my belt loops with it. But, I can't seem to talk my self into using on the actual holster after seeing how fast the blueing will be stripped off a gun if the holster happens to get wet, say someone gets caught in the rain. I would love to hear your arguements as to why its safe to use. Its definatly easier, and I would love to feel good about using it myself. Edited March 4, 2009 by woolfe Quote http://www.woolfegunleather.com/
Members jbird Posted March 4, 2009 Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 Ok here it goes I have tested this stuff a lot and I find that once you have applied the vinagroon you rince it let it dry out and as far as I can see it does not seem like it is present in the leather after it airs out and I have not seen signs of water having a negative affect having tested it on some bluing I can see no affect out of the ordinary but this having been said the mix makes a difference how long it sit with meatal in it I think if it's a strong mix it might be a different story, any way I used it on some holsters and I can't see any signs of any bad results. Josh Quote Josh Dusty Chaps Leather & Seven O Saddle Shop 801-809-8456 Keep moving forward! On a horse. Hebrews 4:12 My link
Members woolfe Posted March 4, 2009 Author Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 I tested it out one time. I rinsed it in baking soda water to help neutralize it and in fresh water. I then let it dry for a while before wet molding. During wet molding it was on the gun for about 1 hour tops, I did not time it. Thank god I used a cheap gun and I know how to reblue a gun. I could not believe how badly it started to surface rust and strip the blueing. I never have trouble with Fiebings dyed leather and wet molding. I guess I'll have to try letting it completely dry out and then resoaking before wet molding. Quote http://www.woolfegunleather.com/
Members dbusarow Posted March 4, 2009 Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 My EDC holster is one I built about 4 months ago and used vinagaroon on. I've worn it almost every day for those 4 months. I do have a Glock in it, not a blued 1911, but no odd effects at all. I also have one for a blued Les Baer custom but that gun doesn't spend a lot of time in a holster, just range time. It does get used and I'm not concerned that the vinagaroon is going to eat the finish (on my prettiest most expensive gun). Dan Quote Dan Busarow dan@fishcreekleatherworks.com http://www.fishcreekleatherworks.com/
Members woolfe Posted March 4, 2009 Author Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 I guess with the humidity in Florida I'm a little more nervous about it. I'll have to test it some more. Quote http://www.woolfegunleather.com/
Members fishguy Posted March 4, 2009 Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 If you neutralized it with baking soda then perhaps it wasn't the vinegaroon that caused the rust. Though, baking soda, a good rinsing and letting it dry before bringing it in contact with steel sounds like a good idea. I typically do my vinegaroon dying right after cutting out the holster, so it has been neutralized and rinsed and let dry way before I go to wet molding. I also suspect that any left-over vinegar or acidity does not remain in the leather for long. Acetic acid (vinegar) is more subject to breakdown through contact with the air (oxidation) or micro-organisims than chromium salts, which are basically there forever. The actual black pigment is produced by a reaction of the dissolved iron with the tannins that are present in all veg-tanned leather. Quote
Members jbird Posted March 4, 2009 Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 Yes this sounds like it needs time to air dry for sure I think the air gets rid of the rest of the stuff. Josh Quote Josh Dusty Chaps Leather & Seven O Saddle Shop 801-809-8456 Keep moving forward! On a horse. Hebrews 4:12 My link
Members woolfe Posted March 4, 2009 Author Members Report Posted March 4, 2009 I'm convinced to give it another go. Thanks a bunch!!! Quote http://www.woolfegunleather.com/
Bree Posted March 4, 2009 Report Posted March 4, 2009 Not sure what the right answer is but I have a plastic coffee can sitting with a bunch of oxidizing steel wool and rusty old nails. I put a little water in and get everything nice and wet and then let it dry out and rust away until I rewet the whole thing and start the cycle again. The steel wool is falling apart now and I think next week the vinegar is going in to start brewing the 'Roon. I have some nice fresh bullhide cut to make a super Nemesis for my P3AT so I can park a mag in next to the pistol. Once the 'Roon is ready the bullhide goes in and we'll see just how black black is! I am eager to see the results but I suspect that I have a few weeks left to go. Quote Ride Safe! Bree 2003 Dyna Wide Glide Memberships: Iron Butt Association, Niagara Falls HOG, Wild Fire HOG NRA, Niagara County Sportsman's Association
Members dickf Posted March 5, 2009 Members Report Posted March 5, 2009 I have an old pickle jar that looks like super strong tea with mere particles at the bottom. The particles started life as an entire pad of 0000 steel wool. The vinegaroon is strong and works fast. Quote US GUNLEATHER www.usgunleather.com twitter.com/usgunleather facebook.com/USGUNLEATHER
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