new guy with thanks and question

[Bronson]

Hi there, new guy here with his first post.

First I'd llike to say thanks to everyone for all the great advice and tips. I've been reading and found answers to many of the questions I've had, so thanks again.

One thing I'm still having trouble with though is that when I get a holster done it hardens up like a board. It gets so stiff that it looses any ability to flex and will crack. I assumed I was using too hot of water during the forming but I've read here where others are using a lot hotter water than I am. I will admit to getting impatient and trying to speed things along with a hair dryer and I think that's my ultimate problem but was hoping for some confirmation from the knowledge pool here.

I'm currently using Fiebing's dyes and brushed on Resolene. I'm just starting to play with neatsfoot oil and have a sample piece that I formed, oiled then dyed, then coated with Resolene that looks promising. I've also got some Tan-kote laying around but I'm not sure about the best way to use it.

Any advice, suggestions, or encouragement will be greatly appreciated.

Bronson

[Leather Bum]

Welcome to the forum, Bronson!

While keeping in mind I don't really have any experience building holsters. . . . . . I would think that a little oil (Lobo here could probably expand on this) and no forced drying (hair dryer) would help keep the leather from ending out too stiff and brittle as you've described.

L'Bum

Edited March 5, 2009 by Leather Bum

[Bronson]

Welcome to the forum, Bronson!

While keeping in mind I don't really have any experience building holsters. . . . . . I would think that a little oil (Lobo here could probably expand on this) and no forced drying (hair dryer) would help keep the leather from ending out too stiff and brittle as you've described.

L'Bum

Thansk L'Bum, I think I'm coming to the same conclusion. I've read several of Lobo's posts and have taken a lot of great information away from them so I'm going to try oiling and forcing myself to be patient (I hate waiting) and see what I get.

Bronson

Edited March 5, 2009 by Bronson

[Drac]

it's the hair dryer that's doing it. I'm impatient too and use a heat shrink gun on low and don't hold it right on it but kinda wave it in the direction of the holster, stop a bit, then wave some more, stop, wave etc until it's done.

[2MadJacks]

Are you applying your dye first, if so how heavy are you applying? I believe it dries out the leather quite a bit more and will definetly crack the surface when bending. at least I think that is why my first belts cracked at the buckles. I use to use a dauber to put it on way to heavy. Now I have stopped having this problem. James

now thats my 2 cents...

Pros please feel free to correct me as I too am just learning. lol

[Lobo]

A characteristic of vegetable tanned leather is that it can be wet-molded to a shape and retain that shape. That is one of the reasons why we use it for holster making. This is a good thing.

Water temperature during the wet-forming process makes very little difference. I use warm tap water during the winter time because it is easier on my hands. I use cold tap water during the summer time for the same reason. There is no difference in the results.

Forced drying is to be avoided. Set the new piece aside in an area with good airflow and allow it to dry naturally. This can take up to about 24 hours.

When the article has dried, you may apply any dyes you may wish to use, then allow that to dry completely. Then, try applying neatsfoot oil compound liberally over the outer surfaces. I use a 1-inch paint brush dipped in neatsfoot oil and just slather the oil on. Then set the piece aside and allow the oil to penetrate and "settle" (it will not dry, rather it is absorbed into the leather and remains there). The neatsfoot oil will give the finished leather a little bit of flexibility, and provides long-term protection against moisture infiltration.

After the oil has settled (about 24 hours usually), then apply your final finish coatings. You mentioned Resolene, which is a good product.

NOTE: over-oiling will leave the leather limp and useless. I oil it ONE time only, applying the oil generously to the exterior only. The flesh side of the leather and exposed edges will absorb the oil much more readily, so it is easy to over-oil the piece if you apply the oil directly to those areas.

With this process you will have a finished piece that will hold its shape well, and will flex sufficiently to perform its job without worries about cracking.

I was recently shown a holster that I made for a friend in about 1975. It is still in use and still looks pretty good. The ONLY finish it has ever had was the original oiling, and a little neutral shoe polish applied. Back in those days I made holsters for about $10 or $12. I still make the same style, but I get a little more money now.

[Bronson]

Thanks everyone,

Any and all advice gladly taken

Bronson

[mattsh]

bronson - as Lobo already said, the heat that you are using to speed up the drying is the cause of the issue. To expand on it a little, without going into great detail, look into cuiriboulli. Its a process of using hot water to harden leather, in effect the same thing you are doing by force drying the leather with a blow dryer.