Bronson Report post Posted March 6, 2009 The last holster I made is rubbing dye off onto the gun. I've coated the inside with Resolene and it got a little better but it's still rubbing color on to the top edges of the slide, the front edges of the dust cover and the trigger guard. I'm wondering if it's because I didn't really form the backside since that's the side of the gun where most of the color transfer is taking place (I wanted to keep it relatively flat on the back). None of the other holsters I've made have done this and I'm curious if anybody else has had this problem and how they fixed it. I'm thinking of making another one and not dying it or at least not dying the inside. The gun is a 1911 Bobtail Commander if it matters for this discussion. Thanks, Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twosons Report post Posted March 6, 2009 I don't have an answer for you, since I am pretty new at this, but it might help the others if they knew what kind of dye you used. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Cornelius Report post Posted March 6, 2009 Waht kind of dye are you using, I went to using oil dye and it seems to help. I now order most of my black already drum dyed from the tannery. The drum dye process helps a lot on keeping the color from rubbing off. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Peterk Report post Posted March 6, 2009 I use Angelus spirit (alcohol) dyes exclusively now and it penetrate into the leather so it does not rub off. I rub the inside of my holsters down with Gum, then coat with Resolene and no problems so far. When I used to use Eco-Flo water-based dyes it would rub off on both sides so I changed it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Billsotx Report post Posted March 6, 2009 The last holster I made is rubbing dye off onto the gun. I've coated the inside with Resolene and it got a little better but it's still rubbing color on to the top edges of the slide, the front edges of the dust cover and the trigger guard. I'm wondering if it's because I didn't really form the backside since that's the side of the gun where most of the color transfer is taking place (I wanted to keep it relatively flat on the back).None of the other holsters I've made have done this and I'm curious if anybody else has had this problem and how they fixed it. I'm thinking of making another one and not dying it or at least not dying the inside. The gun is a 1911 Bobtail Commander if it matters for this discussion. Thanks, Bronson What color dye? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattsh Report post Posted March 6, 2009 Bronson -- what kind of dye and at what point are you dying the holster? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted March 7, 2009 Ok, I'll try to answer 'em all in one post. I'm using Fiebing's dye in mahogany. I'm dying the leather after it has dried from the wet forming process. I coated the interior with gum tracaganth and slicked it down, when that didn't stop the dye rub off I went over it with resolene and let it dry in a warm place for 1 1/2 days. Soon, I shall make a jar of vinegaroon then I'll just do everything in black Thanks everyone, Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted March 7, 2009 You might also try applying the dye while the leather is still damp. I've noticed that it sometimes helps the dye penetrate the leather. Also, once the dye is applied, are you buffing off the excess particles? That's a pretty important step as there will be some left on the surface of the leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattsh Report post Posted March 8, 2009 Bronson - Passing along some wisdom that an ole pro passed along to me when I was having the same issues with Fiebings dye. Apply your dye before you do the molding and boning. The reason for doing it this way is because the molding and boning compresses the leather and prevents proper penetration of the dye. After drying apply a second coat if needed. Dip your holster in warm water and do your molding and boning. After everything has dried do a buff on the holster to remove any oxidation that may have formed. Apply a sealer - Resolene, Super Sheen, etc. I have not used Fiebings in quite some time, but as I recall there are two different bases for the Fiebings dye, oil and alcohol based. If I recall correctly you need to use the alcohol based dye. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted March 10, 2009 Thanks guys. I might just give that a try mattsh, thanks again. And yes I'm using the alcohol based dyes. Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted March 11, 2009 If you are reducing Resolene, that can be a problem. I prefer full strength and have had suggested that 10% max reduced with water. Otherwise, you've got too thin a mixture. I've never worked with Feibings dye. Mainly EcoFlo and I've had no trouble with rub off. Before applying your sealer, buff the dyed surface to remove any residue and prep the leather. Then apply the top coat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Talfuchre Report post Posted March 28, 2009 Thanks for this thread - I was having the same issue with knives... I will try dying before I form... TF Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
