ABC3 Report post Posted March 8, 2009 Do most of you find that you need to sand your liner & belt after glued or holsters to get your leather even & smooth? Maybe it's just me lately - but I can't seem to cut a straight line so that both sides match up. Sanding has become a norm around my shop. Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted March 8, 2009 Do most of you find that you need to sand your liner & belt after glued or holsters to get your leather even & smooth? Maybe it's just me lately - but I can't seem to cut a straight line so that both sides match up. Sanding has become a norm around my shop. Any suggestions? I'm probably out of the ordinary on this, . . . but I always plan on sanding the edges smooth, . . . and when they happen to line up right, . . . it's a pleasant surprize. I used to try, . . . and fail regularly, to get it all to line up, . . . finally figured it wasn't worth all the hassle & worry when I've got at least 7 different sanding tools and a trash bin. Now I just sand it 'till it's right, . . . or pitch it and start over. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) With all the flexibility of leather it's hard to keep it from stretching even a little bit. I suppose I could tape all the pieces, then cut, then spend additional time lining everything up....or just cut the dang thing out a little oversized and trim the edges once assembled. I've been thinking of a sander, too, but can't justify the expense right now. Edited March 8, 2009 by TwinOaks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hennessy Report post Posted March 8, 2009 I'm probably out of the ordinary on this, . . . but I always plan on sanding the edges smooth, . . . and when they happen to line up right, . . . it's a pleasant surprize. I used to try, . . . and fail regularly, to get it all to line up, . . . finally figured it wasn't worth all the hassle & worry when I've got at least 7 different sanding tools and a trash bin. Now I just sand it 'till it's right, . . . or pitch it and start over.May God bless, Dwight i had a large finish machine out of a shoe repair shop,several size sanding wheels and a vacumn dust remover and ground all types of edges for 30 years.i couldn't get anywhere near th edge without.now i have a drum attached to a drill,tied down to table and continue to finish with good edges anything that i care to make. pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tac Report post Posted March 8, 2009 I sand just about every seam I make where two pieces of leather are joined to create an edge... It's the only way that I can get them to turn out even remotely well. I use a sanding drum that chucks into my drill press. Works wonderfully. -Tac Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rhall Report post Posted March 8, 2009 I have an oscilating table sander that you can change drum diam..but by using a gum cleaner it lasts forever..also excellant control.I have not figured a better way to do it!Now that I mfgd those redwood grooved wheels for the buffer everything go's very fast.Gum trag and four min and I am done! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 8, 2009 I'm glad I'm not the only one having problems with this. I thought it was just me not being able to cut a straight strap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brushpopper Report post Posted March 8, 2009 I cut pretty accurately but even so I need to use a Dremel 300 with a small sanding drum to get a satisfactory main holster seam. The Dremel is great - you have good control with it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted March 8, 2009 If I ever want a belt 101% matching edges I glue the back on and then run it through my strap cutter with the knives set at the width I want. I make the blank a quarter of an inch wider than the belt I want and the cutter takes an eighth of an inch off either side and they match perfectly. Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 8, 2009 (edited) tonyc1; That's the way to do it right - if you have a strap cutter. Edited March 8, 2009 by Hobby Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted March 8, 2009 I always sand my edges. I have a sanding belt set up on a grinder that I use for all kind of things. It runs at about 3500 rpm which is too fast for leather, however, I discovered that using the higher speed caused a slight amount of scortching on the edges which enhanced my final finish on the edges. For tight turns I use a small drum sander at 1750 rpm. Occassionally the dremel is real handy. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Gotta get this, only $40. I use it to make knife handles and leather work. I have the same situation you are describing ALLLLLL the time...this makes short work of it. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=2485 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 9, 2009 I was just there on Fri & purchased a shop press & ask about a belt sander & didn't have one. Will check it out again. Thanks for the heads up. Stay safe..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rayban Report post Posted March 9, 2009 When making a knife sheath it's not uncommon to have 3,4,5,6 layers of 8-10oz. I find it impossible to get the edges aligned just right without sanding before burnishing. The belt sander works wonders.....just go slow, it can burn the leather! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DCKNIVES Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Well being a knifemaker as well as a leatherworker, I am fortunate to have a Variable Speed Burr-King belt sander.I highly recommend getting a VS if you can afford it. Its great for sheath and holster edges, like Rayban said 4-6 layers of leather are hard to get perfect without sanding.Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randyc Report post Posted March 9, 2009 I have an oscilating table sander that you can change drum diam..but by using a gum cleaner it lasts forever..also excellant control.I have not figured a better way to do it!Now that I mfgd those redwood grooved wheels for the buffer everything go's very fast.Gum trag and four min and I am done! I have an oscilating Spindle sander myself, but still often use my variable speed dremal tool . I wet the edge then run it at slower speeds. I usually end up rubbing down my edges with some fine grit automotive sandpaper. I use Gum T and then denim from old blue jeans to buff the edges. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Many years ago I stopped even trying to cut perfectly matching edges, always cutting to a line. Then I assemble everything with cement and clamp it together. Then I use both a belt sander and a drum sander to dress the edges. Here is one thing that helps me a lot (since I do 20-plus items per week, and usually at least 8 or 10 at a time): 1. cement and clamp the items sufficiently to hold everything together 2. dip the item in water, just enough to dampen it well 3. dress the edges with the belt sander or drum sander, which will very quickly dress the damp leather down WITH NO DUST IN THE AIR, just a little damp scrap that falls quickly to the tabletop. This also raises a bead at all edges, which I allow to dry thoroughly, then hit it with an edge beveler and the edges are done. An additional benefit of wetting the leather before dressing the edges is that it leaves a roughly burnished edge. After wet forming, while the holster is still damp, I hit the edges with a burnishing tool (hardwood cylinder chucked into the drill press) and have a final bright burnished edge in very short order. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Lobo, Thanks for your input - it really helps. Good luck with your new digs & keep the frig stocked.... Stay safe. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted March 9, 2009 I went over to Home Depot this weekend and bought a KILLER machine for $200. It's a Ridgid 2 in 1 oscillating spindle/edge belt sander. It has the normal spindles that you would find on a good spindle sander with 3/4 inch oscillation. But it also has a 4"x24" belt sander that also oscillates 3/4 inch! It has a big worksurface and is extremely well designed. It earned Fine Wooodworking's Best Overall and Best Value awards in one of their machine shootouts. Here are a couple of PIX of the machine in both setups. (Very fast and EZ to switch from one to the other) Between my drill press sanding drums (non-oscillating) and this oscillating sander, I have all my bases covered. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 10, 2009 That looks great. I was just at HD & didn't see it. I would have jumped on it. Nice find...... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gtwister09 Report post Posted March 10, 2009 Rigid has had this machine out for a couple of years. It works well on wood because the oscillating action lessens the finish marks. It was one of the first oscillating interchangeable drum/belt sanders on the market. It is a nice machine! Regards, Ben Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 10, 2009 I went over to Home Depot this weekend and bought a KILLER machine for $200. It's a Ridgid 2 in 1 oscillating spindle/edge belt sander. It has the normal spindles that you would find on a good spindle sander with 3/4 inch oscillation. But it also has a 4"x24" belt sander that also oscillates 3/4 inch! It has a big worksurface and is extremely well designed. It earned Fine Wooodworking's Best Overall and Best Value awards in one of their machine shootouts.Here are a couple of PIX of the machine in both setups. (Very fast and EZ to switch from one to the other) Between my drill press sanding drums (non-oscillating) and this oscillating sander, I have all my bases covered. Bree: You are on top of the handy machines for the shop! I'll be getting one of these to replace two or three old timer's tools I've been using for years. Thanks for the post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites