BearMan Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Hello, Here is a new knife sheath, I made for my Son. I usually don't make moulded sheaths, but that's what he wanted. I was able to keep the tooling intact, even through the moulding process. He also wanted one of my "articulated" straps, which allows it to pivot out of the way, since he does alot of driving. He also likes stitching, so I did a double row. What do you think?? Ed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Ed, A very nice job. I'm sure he will enjoy for many years. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ydduit Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Nice looking sheath! I really like the articulating design. Who is the knife maker? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ArtS Report post Posted March 9, 2009 Nice job. Looks great. Talk about smooth edges!! Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 10, 2009 Fabulous workmanship! The relief on your carving is exquisite, and your edges are beyond belief. Thank you for sharing this effort, an inspiration to all of us who think we do good work! Your son is indeed blessed to have a father who will go to such lengths for him. Best regards. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Bum Report post Posted March 10, 2009 That's quite a striking sheath there, Ed! This raises some questions I've had about welts(?) on knife sheaths. How thick should the welt be, and do you make it the same thickness the entire length of the sheath? On a pocket-style sheath like this (for lack of a better term), is the knife held securely by the leather molded around the handle, or is the leather also molded to the blade? Thanks for sharing, and again, the sheath is outstanding. L'Bum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BearMan Report post Posted March 10, 2009 Hello L'Bum, Lobo ,Art, ydduit & Tom Thanks for all the wonderful comments! This is a knife I put together. It's a blade I bought, & added the handle material & the Copper hilt & butt cap. I love the look of copper, but it's kinda hard to work with since it's so dense. As far as the welt, for this one, & all my sheaths. The welt serves three main purposes: to protect the sheath from the cutting edge of the knife, to stiffen the sheath & help it retain shape, & to provide enough thickness in the hilt area of the knife. I almost always taper my welts, from the opening, down to the point. I always try to make the welt at least the thicness of the blade in the main body of the sheath. This helps to ensure that the cutting edge of the knife always has clearence, & also that creates enough room inside the sheath for the blade itself. If the knife has a large (thick) hilt, like this one does, the welt will help with the "step down" transition between the hilt & the blade. The welt can also control how well the hilt "Locks" into the sheath after moulding. This knife and sheath lock together with about 4-5 lbs of force, which means, even if the sheath is upside down & shaking, the knife wont fall out. If the welt is too thick, it wont lock in good. If the welt is too Thin, it would lock in too hard,,,for a while BUT, it would soon flex the leather too much, & it would wear out, & loose all of its holding power. I hope this helps some. I think welts, & retaining straps are where most people have the most problems. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Bum Report post Posted March 10, 2009 Thank you very much, Ed! That's just what I was wanting to know. L'Bum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
