ps0303 Report post Posted March 12, 2009 Hi Folks.. I'm new here as of tonight. I've been reading thru the threads and looking at some mighty nice holsters. I've started on a journey to make my own and had a few questions. Since I am leaning the way of a in waste band holster, if it's made out of all leather would you use the heaviest leather to prevent the holster from closing up once you draw? Would both the front and back pieces be of the same weight? I had started looking at making a part leather part kydex holster. All of the pieces seem easy to find. Since it's my first experiment I wanted to keep cost down so the leather itself is of concern. Thought maybe just a 12x12 piece to start. Where's the best place to find such a thing? I do think there is a Tandy Leather place in my area but not sure if they sell such small pieces. Also, I am guess I would want a piece that weighs 8/9 ozs. I'll keep reading here as well to get more ideas. You all have great talents and ideas. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BruceGibson Report post Posted March 12, 2009 Welcome to the Forum! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scott1952 Report post Posted March 12, 2009 Come on in, the water is great! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bronson Report post Posted March 12, 2009 My local Tandy store sells small drops for $7-$10. My very first holster was a Kydex/leather combo and it wasn't difficult. The clips probably took more time than anything else It works well with good retention but a nice draw. It's not a bad way to start and it can be done without many of the specialized tools needed for leather so if you find you don't enjoy the process you're not out the money you would spend on them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/...57606586066759/ Bronson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JRB Report post Posted March 12, 2009 My local Tandy store sells small drops for $7-$10.My very first holster was a Kydex/leather combo and it wasn't difficult. The clips probably took more time than anything else It works well with good retention but a nice draw. It's not a bad way to start and it can be done without many of the specialized tools needed for leather so if you find you don't enjoy the process you're not out the money you would spend on them. http://www.flickr.com/photos/29310638@N07/...57606586066759/ Bronson Care to share on your method for making the belt clips (pics of your jig maybe)? Don't mean to hi-jack the thread. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing your first project as it develops. I have on hand (most of the time, and expecting a delivery from Wicket and Craig next week) reasonable quantities of good quality veg-tanned shoulders in 8-9 oz. and 7-8 oz. Feel free to send me your pattern and I will send you the necessary leather for cost (I buy shoulders and sides, so cost is minimized for small pieces, I make 20 to 30 pieces per week). What you will get from the local leather shop will be seconds at best, and not worth your efforts at worst. Been there, done that, have all the receipts! Get after it and get it done. Let me know how I can help. ray.cory@comcast.net Edited March 12, 2009 by Lobo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Bum Report post Posted March 12, 2009 (edited) I have on hand (most of the time, and expecting a delivery from Wicket and Craig next week) reasonable quantities of good quality veg-tanned shoulders in 8-9 oz. and 7-8 oz. Feel free to send me your pattern and I will send you the necessary leather for cost (I buy shoulders and sides, so cost is minimized for small pieces, I make 20 to 30 pieces per week).What you will get from the local leather shop will be seconds at best, and not worth your efforts at worst. Lobo, am I understanding correctly that you're able to buy Wickett and Craig leather in cuts smaller than a whole side? L'Bum Edited March 12, 2009 by Leather Bum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ps0303 Report post Posted March 14, 2009 Went to the local Tandy Leather shop this morning. I did get a single shoulder 7/8 oz for $14. It's not perfect but since this is going to be my first and a IWB holster it will do just fine. Probably be able to get a few items from it due to the size. Also picked up a book to learn stitching and a few other items I will need. Just need a few more things and I am ready to go. I've been reading thru this site and one other one for the past several nights and I am starting to piece things together on how to do things. Thanks to all here that are helping me learn and as well as inspiring. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted March 14, 2009 Hi PS0303, to Leatherworker.net! To answer some of the questions you posted: (my opinion) IWB holsters should be sturdy enough to support the gun, but thin enough to comfortably wear. That said, I prefer 6-7oz leather for IWBs. The way to keep the holster open is to add a reinforcement along the opening of the holster. This band can be further strengthened by having a stiff material between the layers of leather. Horseshoe leather holsters have a band of spring steel sewn in to keep the holster mouth open. Other materials can be used as well. Typically the band attachment can be accoplished through glueing, stitching, or both, or rivets. Rivets don't look so great and you have to be very careful about the placement of them to prevent damage to the finish on the gun. Stitching will do fine by itself, and the additional step of glueing keeps the leather from developing "pockets" between the leather (which can make a really annoying squeaky sound). For your first holster, an "avenger" style is pretty easy to do, and there's a tutorial here for one here. It isn't really an IWB, but it's a good starting point to learn some basics. Most of my IWBs are a 'pancake' variety, which is two pieces of leather with the gun between them. Those require a bit more stitching but I prefer two attachment points for belt loops. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lobo Report post Posted March 15, 2009 Lobo, am I understanding correctly that you're able to buy Wickett and Craig leather in cuts smaller than a whole side?L'Bum L'Bum: No, I buy several sides at a time. I was offering to send this new member a piece suitable for his pattern at cost. Hate to think of anyone going into a Tandy shop and paying retail for the quality they have on hand at any given time! Enjoy your day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ps0303 Report post Posted March 15, 2009 Lobo, I saw your offer and I appreciate it. I was chomping at the bit to try this so I did make a purchase from Tandy plus I was there to pick up the stitching book I wanted to read as well. Lucky to some degree that they had the leather on sale. Thanks again for your offer. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Bum Report post Posted March 16, 2009 OK Thanks, Lobo. And I do happen to agree here as well. . . Hate to think of anyone going into a Tandy shop and paying retail for the quality they have on hand at any given time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
