What am I doing wrong?

[JRB]

I can't figure out what is causing the blotchy dye. It was really bad w/Fiebings (pictured). I am trying Angelus and it is better but still a little blotchy.

I'm using Wickett & Craig leather. After welt molding I wipe it down w/alcohol then apply dye w/a wool dauber. I apply a light coat of neats foot oil and after it soaks through (next day) I apply finish coat.

My first guess would be either something w/preparing the leather before dye and/or the neats foot oil.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[Tkleather1]

the only thing I could even try to suggest is make sure all the alcohol is dry but I dont know.

What are you using to apply the dye?

Edited March 14, 2009 by Tkleather1

[kseidel]

Are you using the regular spirit dye or the professional oil dye? The Pro Oil dye covers much better over large smooth surfaces.The biggest issue is the areas that are burnished more on the surface...the light spots. Also it looks like there are some stains left from your hands when making. The best way to prep leather for dye or oil after handling is to wash with oxalic acid. It is quick and easy and opens the pores making the leather receptive to whatever comes next. Also for larger smooth surfaces, a woolskin pad works much better than a dauber. It applies finishes much smoother without the streaking that you get with a dauber.

If you strip the finish you should be able to re-dye. Try to get more saturation.

Keith

[Tina]

I'm only using the Angelus dyes and so far the only time it comes out blotchy is when the hide is not prepered (Angelus have a deglazer for this). The black has been really nice to me so far, never uneven...Can it have something to do with the hide?

I have also started to use the dye when it is still wet/damp, especially when the dye is deluted (trying to get more even resaults without using air guns) and so far this works out fine for me.

Hope this helps but I guess that making your own little experiments would not hurt (small scrap pieces of course *S*)

[Jordan]

I have not figured it out either. I do know that even with the cleanest hands there is still enough oil to cause the blotchys, no matter how clean the leather is. Also I think it is inherent in a natural product to have inconsistencies. You could convince yourself that it adds to the character of the piece but of course it still drives me up a wall. Sorry not much help.

[Tkleather1]

Are you using the regular spirit dye or the professional oil dye? The Pro Oil dye covers much better over large smooth surfaces.The biggest issue is the areas that are burnished more on the surface...the light spots. Also it looks like there are some stains left from your hands when making. The best way to prep leather for dye or oil after handling is to wash with oxalic acid. It is quick and easy and opens the pores making the leather receptive to whatever comes next. Also for larger smooth surfaces, a woolskin pad works much better than a dauber. It applies finishes much smoother without the streaking that you get with a dauber.

If you strip the finish you should be able to re-dye. Try to get more saturation.

Keith

Where would one get this acid???

[whinewine]

Where would one get this acid???

Tandy used to carry it years ago & discontinued. Hardware stores & Home Depot & Lowes carry 'wood bleach'. It's oxalic acid (but read the label just to be sure). It's pretty inexpensive.

JRB:

If the oxalic acid doesn't work (which it possibly won't- since the dye is already on it), use fiebings deglazer (use outside- pretty nasty smelling stuff) to strip & re-do. Deglazer is definitely a last resort.

russ

[JRB]

Tandy used to carry it years ago & discontinued. Hardware stores & Home Depot & Lowes carry 'wood bleach'. It's oxalic acid (but read the label just to be sure). It's pretty inexpensive.

JRB:

If the oxalic acid doesn't work (which it possibly won't- since the dye is already on it), use fiebings deglazer (use outside- pretty nasty smelling stuff) to strip & re-do. Deglazer is definitely a last resort.

russ

So far i've used spirit dyes. The Angelus was "Jet Black". I do have some of the Pro Black.

Would the deglazer & oxalic acid work equally as well to prep before dye?

Thanks guys!

[Ian]

Periodically your question comes up in regards to black dye. I can honestly say that I have never had a problem with uneven black, and I have made hundreds of black items (colors are a different story), and I just give the leather a wipe down with alcohol and I use Fiebings oil dye. One thing is not to skimp on the dye - really slather it on and do a second coat if you want.

[whinewine]

Periodically your question comes up in regards to black dye. I can honestly say that I have never had a problem with uneven black, and I have made hundreds of black items (colors are a different story), and I just give the leather a wipe down with alcohol and I use Fiebings oil dye. One thing is not to skimp on the dye - really slather it on and do a second coat if you want.

Ian:

I do know that if dye is applied with a dauber, it can go on very unevenly, due (probably) to the abundance of crappy leather available out there. I've found that parts of the hide absorb dye at an uneven rate (some parts take it well, some take it not well at all). If given a choice, I'll spray my dye on rather than use the dauber or sheepwool method. I'm sure others will disagree, but for me, spraying works the best.

JRB:

deglazer is essentially a 'last resort' to strip a finish off like few other things can. I would only use it as a prep if you knew there was a definite foreign substance (like oil or finish or some such) spilled on it beforehand.

Oxalic acid is essentially a bleach: it can prep & it can lighten somewhat, but few people use it (or really need to use it) on a regular basis. The alcohol wipe is probably sufficient. I rarely use any of the above- I use water: if it won't take water in a certain area, then I know I have an absorption problem & I would go to one or more of the above treatments.

russ