I NEED HELP ON SEPERATING EDGES????

[slingblade]

HI, JUST NEED SOME ADVICE PLEASE.

IM BUILDING SOME HOLSTERS AND MY PROCESS IS THIS.

1. CUT LEATHER

2. USE TANDY CONTACT CEMENT ON EDGES

3. SEW

4.150 DEGREE SOAK FOR 90 SECONDS TO MOLD AND HARDEN LEATHER

5. DRY AND DYE

6. SATIN FINISH AND DRY

7. GUM TAGAMUTH EDGES AND BURNISH

8. EDGE COAT THEN BEES WAX

mY EDGES ARE SEPERATING AND IT MESSES UP MY NICE BURNISHED EDGE.

IS HOT WATER OR DYE OR HEAT FRON BURNISHING MAYBE CAUSING THIS?

ANY COMMENTS ON THE ORDER I DO MY STEPS WOULD HELP????????

Edited March 18, 2009 by slingblade

[MADMAX22]

im still a nub at leather work but was wondering do how close to the edge do you sew and when you use the contact cement do you coat both sides and let it get tacky before gluing.

Also Im not sure how water effects the glue but I would definatly let it sit overnight before I dipped it in water. I can still smell the cement curing after a afternoon so for it to be fully cured I think it takes 24hrs maybe less.

[Trevor]

Hi there

I would say that if it is a true contact cement that you are using then yes the heat will reactivate it and it will come apart.

A lot of shoe manufacturers use it and they will apply it during a early part of the production line then re-activate it when ready to stick together to another component part.

Cheers

Trevor

Way Down Under

[ABC3]

Slingblade;

I noticed a couple of things in your post & I realize there is always several ways to skin a cat.

This is "my opinion only"

Soaking for 90 seconds in that hot water maybe a tad long. It certainly may effect the cement. I just make sure my project is wet (maybe 30 seconds or so - but then I use cold water).

I Edge Coat ( I wonder if I doing this in the right sequence) then Gum & Burnish and then the final coat.

Anyway, good luck

[Dwight]

HI, JUST NEED SOME ADVICE PLEASE.

IM BUILDING SOME HOLSTERS AND MY PROCESS IS THIS.

1. CUT LEATHER

2. USE TANDY CONTACT CEMENT ON EDGES

3. SEW

4.150 DEGREE SOAK FOR 90 SECONDS TO MOLD AND HARDEN LEATHER

5. DRY AND DYE

6. SATIN FINISH AND DRY

7. GUM TAGAMUTH EDGES AND BURNISH

8. EDGE COAT THEN BEES WAX

mY EDGES ARE SEPERATING AND IT MESSES UP MY NICE BURNISHED EDGE.

IS HOT WATER OR DYE OR HEAT FRON BURNISHING MAYBE CAUSING THIS?

ANY COMMENTS ON THE ORDER I DO MY STEPS WOULD HELP????????

A: Your temperature is too hot, . . . use water that is nuetral feeling to your hand, . . . which should be somewhere around 100 deg F.

B: Just get the leather wet, . . . it does not need to be like a dishrag in order to properly mold. I also tend to let it air dry for a little while, then when I mold it, . . . I don't have to go over it and do it again because it was too wet and the shape slumped out of the way I wanted it.

C: Also, if you are using a liner, . . . don't just glue the edges, . . . do both pieces front to back, left to right, top to bottom. I also buy my contact cement at a hardware store, as it is far cheaper there per oz. Tell them you DO NOT WANT water based cement, . . . you want solvent based contact cement used for putting down formica on kitchen cabinets. That's the good stuff, . . . but is extremely flammable and has to have a good ventilation system if you are using very much of it.

D: I also stitch all my holsters pretty much at 3/16" and at the most 1/4" from the edge. Much farther away and the layers can open up.

May God bless,

Dwight

[JohnD]

Just to add my .02,

I don't make to many holsters but, on the seats and stuff I make that have a burnished edge, I use a fast drying fabric glue (that says it will work on leather) around the edges to glue the seam together. Then I trim and sand my edge. after I burnish the edge I go around to look for spots where the seam seems to be separating or looks like it might separate and split it apart as far as it will split easily and reglue. then I reburnish and touch up any areas that need it.

Hope this helps

John

[TwinOaks]

Go to the "how do I do that" section and look for the pinned topic on finishing edges by Bob Park. Read it and take notes.

Next, follow Dwight's recommendations.

Glue all the way to the edge.

For my casing, I use a spray bottle (cheap model) to apply apply water to the areas that will be molded without soaking the whole piece. It's very important to let the leather sit a bit before molding. It needs the time for the moisture to penetrate into the leather instead of just getting wet on the surface- called casing.

[katsass]

HI, JUST NEED SOME ADVICE PLEASE.

IM BUILDING SOME HOLSTERS AND MY PROCESS IS THIS.

1. CUT LEATHER

2. USE TANDY CONTACT CEMENT ON EDGES

3. SEW

4.150 DEGREE SOAK FOR 90 SECONDS TO MOLD AND HARDEN LEATHER

5. DRY AND DYE

6. SATIN FINISH AND DRY

7. GUM TAGAMUTH EDGES AND BURNISH

8. EDGE COAT THEN BEES WAX

mY EDGES ARE SEPERATING AND IT MESSES UP MY NICE BURNISHED EDGE.

IS HOT WATER OR DYE OR HEAT FRON BURNISHING MAYBE CAUSING THIS?

ANY COMMENTS ON THE ORDER I DO MY STEPS WOULD HELP????????

I have been playing with holsters for more than 30 years and frankly, I stay away from Tandy's brand of dyes, glues and finishes........unfortunately their stuff just isn't up to snuff IMHO.

First of all, I dye all parts after cutting and 'dry fitting'. I let the parts thoroughly dry (24 hours) prior to any further steps are taken. I also use an airbrush to dye with.......it isn't necessary to use one...but I like it.

Almost all of my holsters (except historically accurate ones) are made from two layers of lighter leather doubled up. To do that I use a good quality contact cement (spirit based) which is designed for the bonding of plastic laminate to wood...... like Dwight says. Be sure to wait the 15-20 minutes before bonding. It can be longer in humid areas (I live in the desert....humidity is rarely a problem) For the main welt I'll often sand the edges to be bonded with 220 grit sandpaper...to ensure the penatration and adhesion of the cement.

I try to stitch not much more than 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the finished edge of my welt.......I hand stitch only.

For molding.......warm......just less than cold........water from the tap........a quick run under the tap on the outside, then inside, to moisten uniformly.........let it sit for a couple of minutes then mold. Soaking doesn't help a thing.

Drying. This is where you get the rigidity (stiffness) of your project IMO. In my area the summer humidity is rarely over 20%. 90 degrees for drying with low humidity will produce nice firm holsters. A drying cabinet or box is a good thing in cooler or more humid areas. This can be produced by simply placing your project in a cardboard box, closing the lid and pumping in warm air from a hair dryer. You can get as fancy as you want, as long as you have warm (NOT HOT) air moving over your project.

Edge finishing takes place at two different times. The edges of all areas EXCEPT the welt are burnished prior to assembly and cementing the welt. I use only water and/or dye on edges.........plus a good hardwood burnishing tool (made it myself). Don't care for Gum Trag and will not use 'edge cote'. That stuff makes the edge look like it's painted with plastic. Remember, burnishing takes heat and friction.....and some work.

I spray on a shot of neatsfoot oil, allow to dry, then shoot my finish. I then may do a final burnish with bee's wax on the welt.

I suspect that hot water and a subsequent dye job (if solvent based) is causing the Tandy stuff to let loose, that and and/or you may be rushing the bonding of the welt....the contact cement isn't dry eough to work properly.

I have never had your problem aise on any of my holsters, but my way may not be as others do, and my advice may be worth about as much as you paid for it. JMHO Mike

A pic of a quick 'knock together' holster.