Vinegaroon progress

[BearMan]

Mikey, Before you put the steel wool in the vinegar, did you clean it really good with laquer thinner, or brake clean first? Steel wool come from the factory with a bit of anti-rust agent applied. That has to be removed, otherwise, it will take 3 weeks or so for the vinegar to disolve it completely. Also I've found that by using 2 or more steel sources, ie. steel wool, old rusty bolts, rusty nails,,,, ect. works better as well. I hope this is of some help. Ed

The black comes from iron... the iron comes from the nails/steel wool etc. The acetic acid in the vinegar reacts with the iron in the steel and forms ferric acetate (iron acetate). That reacts with the tannins in the leather (from the tanning process) setting the dye and the result of that reaction is blackness.

[BearMan]

Tom, This is an old time way to create a very deep dark black, that doesn't rub off onto clothing, like regular black dye will do. It is VERY permanate, to anything pourous! It's used to create an overall black color, it doesn't work well for dying just a background, or parts of an item, as it's a chemical reaction, & it will overshadow, other "Dyed" colors. I hope this helps,,, Ed

What are the nails and steel wool for? Do you put them in the vinegar? I've never done this before. But sounds like it could be handy to know.

Tom

[Scary Leatherworks]

here's the top of a motorcycle that I vinegarooned. I made mine from a quart of white vinegar, a 3" piece of rusty re-bar and some old used steel wool. I only wiped mine on with paper towel and it soaked in just fine. I did'nt want to soak it and possibly ruin my tooling. then I applied 3 separate coats of neatsfoot oil and finished with leather balm. After the finish was applied is when it really blackened up. I will also add that after I laced my seat side on and wet it to wet form it to the seat that the vinegarooned top repelled the water

before finish and ........after finish

Scott

[Rayban]

I thought mine was working pretty good until I put the knife into this sheath....turns out my leather looks blue next to the black rubber handle of this knife.

Guess I need to let it soak longer...I was in too much of a hurry to git r done....

[MADMAX22]

Did you oil it again?

Thats the big issue with this stuff is that depending on the leather it varies how well it takes. I have had some stuff that works like a charm, and other stuff no matter what I do and it is bluish.

[Rayban]

Did you oil it again?

Thats the big issue with this stuff is that depending on the leather it varies how well it takes. I have had some stuff that works like a charm, and other stuff no matter what I do and it is bluish.

I'll work on it some mo....thanks!!

[JohnD]

I did'nt want to soak it and possibly ruin my tooling.

Just out of curiosity, Has anyone ever tried using the vinegaroon and then the baking soda/water bath before tooling, as a casing? I was just wondering how that might work out?

John

[Spinner]

I'm new to leatherworking, but this is the same process that is known in woodworking as "Ebonizing" oak and such. The main difference is that the wood is not soaked in the solution. A mostly sealed box (fume box) is made and the vinegar/iron mixture is put together and once the metal is broken down to create the solution, the wood piece(s) are sealed in the box for a few days and the react is achieved just using the fumes.

Not sure if it would work with leather, but for those folks having trouble getting darker colors with the simple soak method, would not a fume box work here as well? I'm not sure if leather reacts the same way as wood does to just the fumes, but soaking and then fuming may achieve an even darker color than just one method by itself...