edge tool?

[mwinans]

I am making holsters using 8-9 oz. leather. What size of edge tool should I use and are the more expensive tools worth it.

Mark

[badger]

Mark,

The edging tool number gets bigger with the amount of material it removes from an edge. Number 1 removes the least, 2 a bit more, etc.

I can't speak for anyone else, but I use a number 1 and 2 more often than any other. I make belts, holsters and bags mostly.

I started out with Tandy edgers and had a hard time with them. That is until I learned how to sharpen them and keep them sharp.

Meantime I spent a lot of money on Joseph Dixon edgers, trying to get it right.

The long and the short of it is this; These days I reach for the Tandy more often than the Dixon.

Good quality tools are always worth the investment as they're better made, but do they do the job better? I don't know.

It's a matter of personal taste. I would start out with the Tandy and learn to maintain the edges properly. If you don't like them after a while, maybe pick up high quality edgers one at a time as they come up.

Just an opinion mind.

Badger

[UKRay]

Mark,

I tend to reach for a Dixon number 2 or 3 as I like to round my edges nicely and mostly work with 3.5 to 4mm thick leather. I don't like the Tandy edgers as IMHO they feel cheap and flimsy in the hand and, also IMHO, although they sharpen well enough they don't hold an edge as well as the Dixons.

Ray

[tonyc1]

I bought 3 Douglas edgers last year and they're the best I've ever used and easy to sharpen.

Tony.

[pete]

really good question! I find that I use a #2 first but don't know if I should use a 3 or 4! Exactly how much edge do you need to take off to get a good result when burnishing!!!??

If it was just knocking off the corners then wouldn't a #1 even work for 16 oz.?

Maybe some saddle makers could respond please

pete

Edited April 10, 2009 by pete

[Rawhide]

This is really a tool-centric question. The answer will depend on the maker of the tool... A Barry King #3 edger will be different than a Ron's #3 edger, plus the style of edger makes a play. The Bissonette style doesn't remove quite as much material as the grooved edger, but there's less chance of a gouge using the bissonettes.

[frank207]

Badger,

I'm also having a problem with my Tandy edger also. I have tried sharpening it according to the book with the little files I bought but it keeps dragging and wrinkling the edge. I'm going to buy one of those Tapered sharpening stones by Osborne. Do you think this will make a difference or is there something I'm doing or not doing?

Thanks

Frank

[Rawhide]

Badger,

I'm also having a problem with my Tandy edger also. I have tried sharpening it according to the book with the little files I bought but it keeps dragging and wrinkling the edge. I'm going to buy one of those Tapered sharpening stones by Osborne. Do you think this will make a difference or is there something I'm doing or not doing?

Thanks

Frank

Frank,

I'm not sure how you're sharpening, but if you have a delicate edge, you may try using the needle files in one direction only and that being away from the cutting edge.

Then once you get a burr, do the opposite side until the burr just disappears. then load up a string with rouge and drag it through the tool away from the edge as well... do that a few times and you should be golden.

[esantoro]

My preference when quality and price are factored in is for the edgers from Weaver in the $11 to $23 price range. I like the 0,1, and 2 in the (0080, Master Tools). I just ordered a #1 bisonette edger (67-4001, brand ????), as I have yet to use one. One of Bruce's posts gave me the heads up, though not necessarily for this particular make.

The Tandy's could be much better (I prefer 2 and 3) if the toes didn't mark the leather, though you could experiment with grinding them down, which is what I should do. I get good results sharpening the Tandy edgers with only fine and super-fine grit wet/dry sand paper. I should be stropping with rouge but don't have a method for that. The only stropping method I've used, but don't like, is from one of the Stohlman books method. I will have to read through the many posts and experiment with some of the methods mentioned: one of them will work perfectly. From memory, the method I'm leaning towards is to use a folded over business card filled with rouge. All that said, the Tandy's are still worth having when you find the on sale for three or four dollars. Next time I see them at this price, I will stock up on extras just to experiment with modifications.

ed

Mark,

The edging tool number gets bigger with the amount of material it removes from an edge. Number 1 removes the least, 2 a bit more, etc.

I can't speak for anyone else, but I use a number 1 and 2 more often than any other. I make belts, holsters and bags mostly.

I started out with Tandy edgers and had a hard time with them. That is until I learned how to sharpen them and keep them sharp.

Meantime I spent a lot of money on Joseph Dixon edgers, trying to get it right.

The long and the short of it is this; These days I reach for the Tandy more often than the Dixon.

Good quality tools are always worth the investment as they're better made, but do they do the job better? I don't know.

It's a matter of personal taste. I would start out with the Tandy and learn to maintain the edges properly. If you don't like them after a while, maybe pick up high quality edgers one at a time as they come up.

Just an opinion mind.

Badger