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application of "edge dye/ink"

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What has everyone found to be the easiest/best way to put on "edge dye/ink" on the edge of a double layered belt?

I have tried felt, Weavers roller, dauber & tapered sponge. But it seems I cannot keep it off my my undyed belt liner.

I really don't want to dye my liners because I have heard stories of the dye coming off onto clothing during the hot summers even with a sealer applied.

Does anyone have the magic solution?

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Clothespin and a thick piece of felt or dense sponge, or more often than not, a small paintbrush, tedious but effective.

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Hobby Tom.................CAREFUL........VERY VERY CAEEFUL.

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I've tried them all, and after all this time, I just use a dauber. Maybe I've just become proficient at it, or just lucky, who knows. A few seconds of running the dauber down the edge, and voyla!

One "trick" I use, though, is to finish and seal both sides one coat before edge dyeing. If there is a little gets on the top or bottom, I can most usually just wipe it of the sealed coating. Then I apply the final seal coat over the leather and the edges.

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rdb,

Then when do you burnish? Those that dye the liner & the belt has it alot easier.

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I do a primary burnish before I do anything to the belt. It makes the flow of the dye easier along a smooth edge. No fighting ragged edges, or pits. If I'm sewing the edge, it gives a smoother ride along the guide,also.

After the edge dye is dry, then I give the final burnish, with wax, and sealer. Generally, you don't have to edge dye the back liner. It's thin enough that when you burnish the top and bottom layers together, they meld together to the point you do not need to dye the liner edge, in most cases. If you are using a thicker liner, then yes, you have to edge dye it, but, my method works fine for me.

I'm old, but I still don't shake, so, I got that going for me...lol.

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You might try using a Sharpie. It is pretty permanent- I have never had one bleed, and it's easy to run the side of it down the edge without touching the liner.

Plus- it comes in a lot of colors so you can edge to match the design.

pete

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That reminds me Pete!!

I picked up some Sharpies at a craft store, (maybe JoAnn's, I forget). They were OIL BASED! I used them this morning to fill in some lettering. PERFECT!!!! Went on, dried fast.

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Thanks everyone - I'll try afew of your methods.

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I use Partner Pens. I didn't know what they were called until someone posted a link to them...I think it was Keith Seidel. It's a plastic tube with a piece of shaped felt inserted. They work great! Bruce Johnson has been using the wide Sharpie pens successfully for a long time.

http://www.americanretailsupply.com/8092/1...t-and-Cans.html

I usually edge and burnish after I have applied my finishes to the top and liner. The raw edge created by edging becomes a neat line to dy to after I burnish and like rdb said, a little overlap is easily removable. I started doing this to keep the lining clean. If I vary from this method, I still seal the lining early to help protect it.

Bob

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Bob, I guess sealing the liner early is the key. I'll incorporate this into my process & see how it works out.

Again, thanks for all the info.

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hello Hobby Tom,

I learned something from my wife (maybe Luke did too) back in the early 80's when we were doing belts out of our garage... My wife could edge them really fast, and so could I, but I had the same problem that you do. I asked her how she did that.... She said, Kevin, ya just gotta learn to be careful! I've learned that the word "careful" when related to leather craft, has a different meaning then the average use of the word! So which ever way is easiest for you to get it on carefully, that's what I'd do! (for me it's a sponge) actually, anymore I'd just as soon use yankee wax and a flat leather wheel. Gives you a factory finish.

Kevin Hopkins

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Not sure what they are called but I use those little foam wedge looking brushes you get at lowes/homedepot. I get the small ones that are 1" across and I trim the very sharp end off about a 1/8" back. These work pretty darn good for me but as stated you just gotta be careful when doing it.

So far I usually do all my carving and what not, dye the project, dye the edges, burnish, seal.

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I use Q-tips.

Just don't pick up a lot of dye with the Q-tip...just a little, and it'll be easier to control.

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I've tried a few things with little success and then started using the sharpie markers. Lots of different point shapes and sizes and they are clean, convenient, and available in many colors. The ink is alcohol based, so it seems to work similar to leather dye. I usually try to edge dye last, after final finish. Once the sharpie slipped and some ink was on the final finish. Wiped up the goof with a little alcohol on a cloth and it was gone. I wond how well an old dry sharpie would work as an applicator dipped in Feibings dye?

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I can't use a .50 cent sharpie to edge my belts - I've got too much money tied up in rollers, wheels, felt, Q tips, sponges, ink, edge dyes - I could go on and on. Why do we (I) have to make this so darn difficult.

Thanks for your help guys. Maybe one of these days I'll have a big sale & get rid of all of this STUFF that I really didn't need in the first place.

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Frog tape the grain faces... you can split a piece of Frog tape down the middle and use the 2 outer edges (where the absorbent is located) to define the edge of your dye line . Then have at it with felt or whatever you wish there will be no bleed through and a perfect line defining the black edge. Airbrush on some sealer and you are good to go.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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you can also get makeup applicator sponges fairly cheap - look at places like Odd Lots

don't know if they would work for this - but I use them for a lot of painting projects. Just not on my face >giggle< (I'm not a "girly girl" don't need warpaint)

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Bree, where do you find this Frog Tape? Is it the same thing as Blue Tape at Home Depot for painters?

Frog tape the grain faces... you can split a piece of Frog tape down the middle and use the 2 outer edges (where the absorbent is located) to define the edge of your dye line . Then have at it with felt or whatever you wish there will be no bleed through and a perfect line defining the black edge. Airbrush on some sealer and you are good to go.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Bree, where do you find this Frog Tape? Is it the same thing as Blue Tape at Home Depot for painters?

I got mine at Amazon.com. Here is a thread with all the info including PIX

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...mp;hl=Frog+tape

It isn't for everyone but it is certainly a viable alternative to other means of edge dying.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Hidepounder;

You have PM.....

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I've tried a few things with little success and then started using the sharpie markers. Lots of different point shapes and sizes and they are clean, convenient, and available in many colors. The ink is alcohol based, so it seems to work similar to leather dye. I usually try to edge dye last, after final finish. Once the sharpie slipped and some ink was on the final finish. Wiped up the goof with a little alcohol on a cloth and it was gone. I wond how well an old dry sharpie would work as an applicator dipped in Feibings dye?

That's an interesting thought! I'll bet that tip is just pressed in....could probably be pulled out, the pen refilled with dye and then the tip re-inserted. I might look into that. I also use one of those plastic bottles with a built in applicator for shoe dye.

Bob

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I use the Sharpies for dyeing lettering, but use Pilot refillable jumbo carton markers for edges. I tried to take a Sharpie apart and it made more of a mess than it was worth, plus the ends are usually about worn on out on my Sharpies by the time they are dried out. With the Pilots you unscrew the tip end, pour in more ink or dye and go right on. I bought 4 about 5 years ago thinking the nibs would wear out. I still have 4.

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I use the Sharpies for dyeing lettering, but use Pilot refillable jumbo carton markers for edges. I tried to take a Sharpie apart and it made more of a mess than it was worth, plus the ends are usually about worn on out on my Sharpies by the time they are dried out. With the Pilots you unscrew the tip end, pour in more ink or dye and go right on. I bought 4 about 5 years ago thinking the nibs would wear out. I still have 4.

That's a great tip Bruce. I didn't know the big Pilots were refillable! Do you use their ink or do you refill with alcohol dye?

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I use daubers to apply my edge dyes but i found they were a little to thick and loose so an oldtimer told me to take a bic lighter and burn them down to the size and density that works best for me. This really helped a lot. the dauber almost always gets me a one application finish that I am happy with and i still use a brush for tight spots and touch ups.

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