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I just did a test on all my projects here and mine are now running as well when wet......

Is it possible to treat these colors although i have already put sheen on them?

see if tan-kote or saddle-lac will go over your finish with out bubbling

Josh

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Posted
I just did a test on all my projects here and mine are now running as well when wet......

Is it possible to treat these colors although i have already put sheen on them?

Acrylic finishes can be removed with a wet sponge. Then try either a lacquer-based finish (as Josh suggests), or wax. Tan-kote is not as water resistant as either of those two finishes.

Kate

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Acrylic finishes can be removed with a wet sponge. Then try either a lacquer-based finish (as Josh suggests), or wax. Tan-kote is not as water resistant as either of those two finishes.

Kate

Thank you greatly to person who started this thread and then also for your solutions i am heading to my local rip off artist to buy some supplies.....to bad i did nothave patience or i would order from the city instead of this bastard guy...lol

I will post my outcome on here in hopes to help the thread author......please let me know as well how yours turns out.....you saved me from giving away these articles i made that i am proud off to only hear they may run colors....

Posted

Airbrush sealer over the water-based hi lighter to prevent the running and smearing and then continue your finishing. Very EZ fix.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Bree

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Posted

Hi there frustrated.... I can really sympathize with you. For what it's worth, we ship about 100 orders per day to individual prisoners across the country. Day in, and day out, it doesn't vary much. Those guys really have learned how to apply and use finishes. We sell them a zillion bottles of Fiebings products to every 2 or 3 bottles of eco flow stuff. The finishes that they seem to gravitate to are Clear Lac (neat lac), Angelus acrylic, Pro Clear Acrylic, Leather Balm, and Resolene. Clear lac must be thinned first for proper usage. There are 4 zillion home recipes out there, and about the same number of finishing techniques. Without writing a book on how to use all those things, you're more than welcome to call and talk to either myself or Bo Riddle in the shop, and we'll do our best to help.

Best wishes for success!

Kevin

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Posted

I just bought my first bottle of eco-flo gel antique, and after reading this thread I ran to my shop to test the many pieces I have used it on. fortunately it hasn't run on any of my projects I tested even the one I held under the water facet. I dye my stuff with an alcohol based wood dye and then use the gel antique and then finish off with 4 or 5 cotes of mink oil. Apparently that works well enough to keep the eco-flo from running.

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Posted
I just bought my first bottle of eco-flo gel antique, and after reading this thread I ran to my shop to test the many pieces I have used it on. fortunately it hasn't run on any of my projects I tested even the one I held under the water facet. I dye my stuff with an alcohol based wood dye and then use the gel antique and then finish off with 4 or 5 cotes of mink oil. Apparently that works well enough to keep the eco-flo from running.

Wild,

Alcohol based wood dye that you use is an actual dye? or more like a stain? Do you use anything to dillute your colors?

what is gel antique?

with mink oil that is your last touch to it? you ont add laquer nor a sheen? or anything else?

What I have learnt about my eco flow color run is that whn i mist the piece with spray.....the beads of water are absorbing color upward....as if the color is sitting on the surface and the super sheen has not sealed it enough perhaps the solids in the color have risen up through the super sheen after i sprayed it.......it is like the water syphons the color solids up or something.......so i am gonna attempt to buff out these solids on these already completed pieces with a shoe polish block to see if that will pull out the solids......

then i think i will mink oil the piece to try that.........

I have another Q!!!!!

I was told mixing my dyes and/or stains with Lexol leather conditioner may prevent this sort of thing from happening and to alsp lightly case leather prior to dying or staining.....any thoughts?

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Posted
Wild,

Alcohol based wood dye that you use is an actual dye? or more like a stain? Do you use anything to dillute your colors?

what is gel antique?

with mink oil that is your last touch to it? you ont add laquer nor a sheen? or anything else?

What I have learnt about my eco flow color run is that whn i mist the piece with spray.....the beads of water are absorbing color upward....as if the color is sitting on the surface and the super sheen has not sealed it enough perhaps the solids in the color have risen up through the super sheen after i sprayed it.......it is like the water syphons the color solids up or something.......so i am gonna attempt to buff out these solids on these already completed pieces with a shoe polish block to see if that will pull out the solids......

then i think i will mink oil the piece to try that.........

I have another Q!!!!!

I was told mixing my dyes and/or stains with Lexol leather conditioner may prevent this sort of thing from happening and to alsp lightly case leather prior to dying or staining.....any thoughts?

It is a dye W. D. Lockwood Dyes. If I want a color to be lighter I add more denatured alcohol. You can also mix the Lockwood dyes to make custom colors.

Gel antique is made by Eco-Flo. It is a water based gel you apply heavily to a piece and then wipe off with a damp sponge. This leaves it in the recessed areas of a carving and sort of highlights it.

Mink oil is my last touch I like the way it finishes a piece. If this is the right way or not I couldn't tell you it's just the way I do it.

I always dye my pieces after I case it. Don't know about mixing it with a leather conditioner, never tried that.

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Posted
I have another Q!!!!!

I was told mixing my dyes and/or stains with Lexol leather conditioner may prevent this sort of thing from happening and to alsp lightly case leather prior to dying or staining.....any thoughts?

I think it was Bick, not Lexol that you are referring to. Many people mix dyes with Bick & the dyes don't migrate all over the place like they normally would. I don't know if the combination would prevent the dye mix from running, since I've only used spirit dyes with Bick, not water-based ecoflos. The spirit/Bick mixes don't seem to run in the presence of water, but I don't have a clue about ecoflo. Get Bick & mix with ecoflo, experiment & then post your results- we'd be interested in the results. Bick can be gotten at Springfield Leather (Kevin Hopkins' business) or Beiler's in Ronks, PA, (among other places, of course). Both listed places have about the best prices.

There used to be threads about Bick & dye mix here, but perhaps they may have disappeared in the crash...

russ

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Posted

For what it's worth, the bick and dye mixing thing is a wonderful deal. It does take experimentation, but it opens so many doors that it's just amazing. We've mixed oil dyes, alcohol dyes, and even acrylics (believe it or not) with it. It just seems to want to work with you. But as to all the finish problems that we've all had at one time or another, I think it helps to look at those things as an opportunity to get smarter, and learn to fix things. Bo Riddle says that he got to be fairly good with dyes and finishes, only because he screwed so many of them up in his early years! :)

Kevin Hopkins

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