Belt Straps instead of belt slots/loops

[ArcherBen]

I've seen a handful of holsters posted here that had snapped belt straps instead of cut belt loops. I recently decided to try my hand at this style of attachment and so far am quite pleased with the design (sorry, I haven't taken pics yet). Building this style of holster got me thinking about the design of the attachment strap specifically. For those that have built this style, do you prefer to start your straps from the top or bottom of the holster? As a follow up question, why? Is there a benefit to one design vs. the other? I personally started mine from the bottom, but couldn't really see much advantage to one way over the other.

If you're having trouble visualising what I'm talking about, take a look at the holsters in this thread.

Edited April 22, 2009 by ArcherBen

[Lobo]

ArcherBen: Thanks for noticing this old thread.

I make OWB holster both ways now, as might suit my customers' wishes. Personally, I find that the straps extending up, then behind the belt, then up to snap onto the holster shell extenion, are a little easier to put on and take off. Some of my customers, however, like the more stylized presentation of the straps going up underneath the belt, then over the top, then down to snap onto the holster shell extension.

Either way, I'm happy to make them. I think that many civilian CCW permit holders need to have the ability to put on and take off the holstered weapon easily, without unfastening the belt, threading the belt loops, etc., when going into and out of places where firearms are not permitted or advisable. That was the impetus of the project, and I have had very good feedback from a lot of customers on this concept and associated projects.

I am now working on another project which will utilize interchangeable belt loops, making the holster convertible from a OWB carry to a IWB carry simply by removing the OWB straps and installing the IWB straps. Never fear, I have no doubt that someone else has done it before, but I will continue my project and see what my customers think of it.

Here are a couple of photos to illustrate the difference described when the belt strap goes over the top or under the bottom. Either way, the holster functions just as a classic pancake holster, pulling the holstered weapon in high and tight. I think that the minor difference between the two is simply a matter of personal preference, which I am happy to accomodate for my customers.

Edited April 23, 2009 by Lobo

[Bronson]

The one I made in this style used straps that were a separate piece of leather. I blatantly borrowed the idea from a UBG Regulator holster I have. The strap leather was held onto the holster by the screw going through the snap. I figured that if the strap ever became too stretched out or anything happened to it I could take out the screw, remove the snap and strap then replace the strap and screw it all back together. I guess doing it that way would also allow you to have the straps from either the top or bottom without having different patterns.

The strap worked very well but the holster itself was just too loose. I couldn't keep the gun from falling out and there were some problems with the finish too. I eventually tossed it and didn't get any pics.

Bronson

Edited April 23, 2009 by Bronson

[Shorts]

I build mine with the loops over the top. I figured if the button came undone, it was more likely to stay up by being wrapped over the top of the belt.

[TwinOaks]

Lobo, I've been playing with the idea of dual carry methods too. To me, the easiest solution was to use a t-nut through the back of the "wing" with a stand off spacer to leave room for the belt in IWB mode and a screw holding the snap/strap in place. To convert to OWB, replace the IWB strap with a wrap around loop. This method of attachment also lends flexibility to the holster as one customer requested both black and brown IWB straps to match different belts.

[Lobo]

Lobo, I've been playing with the idea of dual carry methods too. To me, the easiest solution was to use a t-nut through the back of the "wing" with a stand off spacer to leave room for the belt in IWB mode and a screw holding the snap/strap in place. To convert to OWB, replace the IWB strap with a wrap around loop. This method of attachment also lends flexibility to the holster as one customer requested both black and brown IWB straps to match different belts.

My first approach to this also utilized a T-nut loop attachment with screw through the snap for OWB and screw/trim washer for the IWB strap. Not happy with the results yet, but I think we are moving in the right direction. Just need some time to build the next iteration of the idea, then evaluate the results for fit, function, comfort, etc.

One thing for sure: making the straps as additional pieces, then attaching them to the holster body, is a lot easier when cutting the holster and there is far less wasted leather than there is when cutting the holster and straps as a single piece.

[K-Man]

One thing for sure: making the straps as additional pieces, then attaching them to the holster body, is a lot easier when cutting the holster and there is far less wasted leather than there is when cutting the holster and straps as a single piece.

I don't understand that theory. Care to explain?

[TwinOaks]

If I understand the portent of the statement, Lobo is stating that it's easier to cut the shape of the holster (odd shape with odd shaped cut outs) and then cut the straps from some of the cut outs. Or perhaps cut a strap or two from the side to make all of the attachment straps first. That way, even though the holster is irregularly shaped, it's more consistant. Having the attachment straps as separate pieces prevents lots of REALLY irregular shaped pieces where the cut outs end up in the scrap bin. Example: For a typical 1911 holster with attachment straps, the sweat shield extends perhaps 3 inches from the body of the holster. When laying out the pattern on a side, you can stagger the pattern to get the most holsters from that hide. If the attachment straps are part of that pattern, you "lose" leather because the patterns can't be "packed" as closely together. Then there's the other thought that if the strap is part of the pattern, and the holster is stitched all the way around, at some point you create perforations across the base of the strap with the stitching....unless you don't stitch in that spot.

[K-Man]

Okay. I understand what you're saying. I've just never experienced that. I have been using clicker dies to cut out my version of the holster. Yes, there's a space in between the straps, but that space is used to cut out other holster pieces that would fit within those parameters. And before utilizing the clicker dies, I traced the pattern out on the leather, and applied the same principles. So in the instance of our design, you have a minimal amount of waste.

[Shorts]

Mike, that's what I was gathering from the post as well.

If the attachment straps are part of that pattern, you "lose" leather because the patterns can't be "packed" as closely together.

I would like to address this as I was in the same boat. The way I alleviated this is by flipping the rear panel and cutting out of the pattern in between the straps.

Here's a crude drawing of how I work the patterns from my side.

[K-Man]

Here's an example of our version of the holster cut out. This was cut out with clicker dies. There are three pieces - the front, the back, and the lay over piece.

Here's a picture of the leftover leather from the cutting out of the three pieces above:

The largest piece of "scrap" leather shown in the picture above is 4" at one measurement and 2" at the cross measurement. The rest of the pieces are inconsequential in size.

I'm sorry, I just don't buy into the theory that you save more leather by cutting the straps separately from the "body" of the holster. The prudent placement of the dies, or tracing of the pattern, shows that in this example IMO. YMMV.

Edited April 24, 2009 by K-Man

[TwinOaks]

Thanks for the layouts on how you do it. That's a pretty clear rebuttle of the idea that it takes more leather, huh?

[carljc72]

My first approach to this also utilized a T-nut loop attachment with screw through the snap for OWB and screw/trim washer for the IWB strap. Not happy with the results yet, but I think we are moving in the right direction. Just need some time to build the next iteration of the idea, then evaluate the results for fit, function, comfort, etc.

One thing for sure: making the straps as additional pieces, then attaching them to the holster body, is a lot easier when cutting the holster and there is far less wasted leather than there is when cutting the holster and straps as a single piece.

I agree completely. I have just started this year making a few holsters for myself and some friends. I am making a similar version for myself to try out. I want to see how it holds up for comfort and durability. I like the removable strap idea for a few reasons:

IWB/OWB

Belt size

Color combinations

Thank you to everyone on this site for all their knowledge that gets passed along. I could not imagine attempting this without this wealth of information.

Carl

[ps0303]

Speaking of the interchangeable IWB/OWB, the first holster I made was just that. Although it was my very first attempt it came out nice and wears IWB just as well as OWB. For the IWB retention I used metal holster clips with a leather spacer between it and the holster. I attached it with a tee nut that went trhu the belt loop slot I had cut. This allows for changing the depth and cant of the holster. The OWB needs a bit more work as I don't think I cut the slots large enough to fit a 1 1/2" belt.

Here is a picture of the holster without the clips.

Here the clips are attached. These are the metal clips. I did also make a set of clips out of Kydex and they fit great as well.

[ps0303]

Deleted post as I found what I was looking for.

Edited April 25, 2009 by ps0303