HELP! Twisted pocket?

[leatherjunkie]

one thing that i do when doing this type of pouch that no one has mentioned yet(which surprises me).

i will use the stitching groover on the flesh side of your gusset and groove a line down each long side 3/16" - 1/4" in from the edge.

i will run the groover more than once down the lines untill i am almost half way through the leather.

after this is done then i wet the gusset and bend the leather from the grooved line to the edge into a 90 degree angle.

bend it so the grain side looks like u shape.

then you just glue the gusset to the pocket, working around the pocket about 1" at a time.

i also use barge cement for my glue.

my pouch looks straight doing this method.

Edited May 8, 2009 by leatherjunkie

[Echo4V]

I can't speak for nick but personally, I have the tools mentioned. I have recently purchased some barge glue but haven't had a chance to use it yet. My problem is I just get in a hurry and even if my holes are evenly spaced I still end up with crooked lines so I have to conciously make myself slow down and quit for the day before I get tired.

Thanks for the advice

David

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Couple of words here. First, Bruce has given good advice. The way he does it is also how I do it. The only difference is that sometimes on a project that is very long, I will actually tie it off with a piece of thread at the "register hash marks" to keep it together and aligned while stitching, I don't pre punch my holes for the stiching, I simply put in my stiching groove, and mark it with a stitching wheel and then stitch. Second, I keep reading about impatience. Slow down, pay attention to the details. Patience is an art form, it takes a long time to get there and by the time you do, your are old!

Bondo Bob

[TwinOaks]

There's a comment here that just jumps up and down needing to be adressed:

The statement is "I have a stitching pony but man was it hard to force the needles through the leather without stretching the holes out..."

You shouldn't be forcing the needles through. You should be piercing with an awl first, then following with the needle. The trick to using the awl is to create an index on it (thanks to the OP of this idea). Set the blade at an angle you want to use, then mark where your thumb is. Now shave/file/rasp off that spot so that your thumb is in the same spot every time. Use a consistant angle for penetration -- 90 degrees-- (like straight through, not skewed off). Do a little reading on the subject of awls, it's important to know the basics.

Now, if your awl is stretching the leather instead of just sliding through, it needs to be sharpened....properly. Your awl should be sharp enough that after piercing the leather, it should get about halfway into your finger before you realize it. Seriously. No, I don't mean you should stab your finger repeatedly to see when it's sharp enough, but it needs to be "scary sharp". The type of awl blade you have will make a HUGE difference. The general consensus is that Bob Douglas' awl blades are the best. Period. The awl set from tandy is 'Ok' for lacing projects, but drastically over sized for stitching.

See this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...awl+blade\ post #8

Edited May 8, 2009 by TwinOaks

[nick]

First, I just want to say thanks for all of the suggestions and advice...you people really are top notch!

Second, I do not own any of the tools suggested, but I will be ordering them from Tandy this week hopefully. The nearest store is 2 hours away. The trick to having the tools is knowing how to use them properly, and I have no one here to show me. So, I will be doing some research and probably asking all of you questions...if that is ok. As for the glue, I do have Barge cement, but it seems to be a little messy (at least for me) and I wind up getting it where it isn't wanted. Again, it is probably just me being impatient and in a hurry...gotta work on that. Bruce, I like the registratiion mark idea, but I am not sure I follow exactly how to do it. I re-read your post a couple of times and I think I understand the idea, just not sure how to execute it properly. Perhaps I will try it out on some scrap pieces. BondoBob, you mentioned that you don't pre-punch your holes for stitching. What type of needles do you use and where can I purchase them? I have had some luck using the "S" curved needles from Tandy, but they seem to make rather large holes and sometimes cut through a stitch. Twin Oaks, the awl that I have is not a professional quality awl. It is round, not four sided, if that makes a difference? I realize that I need to go ahead and spend the money to invest in a high quality model as you have suggested. I will look in to the Bob Douglas blades and hopefully, with some practice, be able to achieve some sort of consistent results.

Lastly, here is a picture of the corrected pocket. It turned out much better this time and I am much happier with it. No, it's not perfect, but better. Now, I just need to figure out this whole "burnishing" thing...lol

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Nick,

First I must appologize, I did not realize that you did not have what you needed, (tools and so forth). There is a book that you can get from Tandy that is called "The Art of Hand Sewing" written by Al Stohlman. It is inexpensive and tells you everything you need to know about not just stitching, the use of an awl (which I do use), but; also types of stitches, how to's on tools, sharpening and much much more. I suggest you make it the first "tool" you get. I think it is around $9 or so. If you read it and follow the advice in it, it will make you a pro.

Bondo Bob

[leatherjunkie]

I second the book the art of hand sewing. its a great book.

also it has a pattern in the back for making a stitching horse.

another good book is leather tools at tandy leather.

it explains a lot on what tools do what how to sharpen and other stuff.

another great set of books i highly recommend is the art of making leather cases by al stohlman.

this is a 3 book set. well worth the money for the information contained in these books

[TwinOaks]

Though it isn't a Douglas or Peter Main awl, I've had pretty good success with the Osborne awl that Tandy sells. It's not bad the way it comes, but like all tools, it needs a little tweaking. When I broke my mine, I bought another, then took the first and reground the blade to have a 'stubby' awl. A little heat and the glue holding the blade in the shaft loosens up nicely. Being shorter, I've been able to significantly reduce its profile. Anyway, for the price of a Douglas, you can purchase several Osbornes to practice with, and they're pretty good quality.

[nick]

So, I finally had some time to work on the "problem" piece. I think overall, it did't turn out half bad. I learned a lot with this one and I appreciate everyones suggestions and advice. I did manage to use an Osborne awl, sharpened to a ridiculous point, on the stitching that holds the back flap on. This will obviously take a great deal of practice and patience on my part. I have to ask a rookie question though. After I stabbed the holes with the awl, I attempted to stitch with two needles. Well, I must say that the awl produces a smaller hole than the punch, and it was VERY difficult to place both needles through one hole at the same time. Am I overlooking something? I still have not been to Tandy to get the books yet and I am guessing that they will shed some light on my problem. Regardless, I am pleased with the final product and as I stated earlier, I have learned a lot.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Nice job considering you did it without the "proper tools". That's akin to working on a car with a pair of pliers and a hammer! The book will make life a lot easier, and your product much more pleasing to your eyes. Call your store and ask for them to send you the book and put it on your charge. That is the real place to start. You will be glad you did.

Bondo Bob