Members oldtimer Posted October 9, 2009 Members Report Posted October 9, 2009 (edited) I got this recepie from a master shoemaker, you might give it a try . The result a sticky wax that I use on all kinds of thread, linen, nylon and polyester. I melted and mixed all and then poured it into a thin plastic cup placed in cold water. When it had cooled off and settled I ripped the cup off. If it is too sticky for your taste, add some more bees wax. If you wax nylon and poly threads with pure bees wax it will come off the first stitch, but this mix will stick. Be careful when melting the mix, it is HOT ! 2 parts ( by weight) rosin 1 part ( -"- ) bees wax 1 part ( -"- ) sheep tallow Neats foot oil can be a substitute for sheep tallow, but I haven´t tried that so I don´t know the proportions / Knut Edited October 9, 2009 by oldtimer Quote "The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...
MADMAX22 Posted October 14, 2009 Report Posted October 14, 2009 Well I must say I have been missing out. I got around to trying out some of the stuff I got. Mixed about 60bees wax and 40rosin, with about a teaspoon of olive oil. I only have some hemp thread unwaxed that I used it on. Wow what a difference. It is so nice being able to control how much wax is on the thread. Made for easy threading and the thread layed down very well. I know this isnt much news to those that do this all the time but for us beginners I must say give it a try, youll be very happy you did. Quote
Members ToddB 68 Posted January 26, 2010 Members Report Posted January 26, 2010 (edited) Newbie here Read both pages of this thread........interesting stuff ! Say, I have two large pine trees on my place and notice globs of sap attached to the bark. Also, the pine cones are very sticky with sap. #1..Would these globs of raw rosinous sap melted with beeswax make a good Coad ? #2..What about boiling the pine cones to render out the rosin ? (Assume straining through cheeze cloth would be adviseable before the cold water treatment.). I know this is not as easy as buying the stuff but, if some extra effort will produce a good product, it would be gratifying IMO. If anyone has tried this, I would appreciate knowing the results Pro/Con. Thanks, Todd Edited January 26, 2010 by ToddB68 Quote
Members MikeCahill Posted February 2, 2010 Members Report Posted February 2, 2010 The boot and shoe guys mix it up various formulas and ratios of waxes and rosin. I have heard it referred to as coad. It helps to lock and seal stitches. It almost approaches doctrine with formulas and types of wax and rosin to use, and then how it is worked. www.thehcc.org has info in the archives. Rosin is available with many rodeo equipment suppliers in black and white rosin, depending on remaining pitch or terpenes or some other chemical I never really undertstood. Roughstock riders use it to tack up gear and gloves. It is almost doctrine with them too about whether black or whote rosin is better. **Big hint** Don't let your girlfriend try to clean out your gearbag. Rosin socks play hell on a load of wash and the machine too. Over here (UK), this is known as cobblers heel ball, and is available from shoe repair suppliers, a mix of rosin, beeswax and natural turpintine, I however can't use it because I am allergic to rosin, and If I use it my hands swell up, and I get a really bad itchy rash, I just use bee's wax, not as good, but it works! cheers Mike Quote
Members ToddB 68 Posted February 3, 2010 Members Report Posted February 3, 2010 Over here (UK), this is known as cobblers heel ball, and is available from shoe repair suppliers, a mix of rosin, beeswax and natural turpintine, I however can't use it because I am allergic to rosin, and If I use it my hands swell up, and I get a really bad itchy rash, I just use bee's wax, not as good, but it works! cheers Mike Mike........Thanks for the information. Do you know if the "cobblers heel ball" is made using the natural raw rosin right off the tree, or is it processed rosin ? Todd Quote
Members oldtimer Posted February 4, 2010 Members Report Posted February 4, 2010 (edited) Mike........Thanks for the information. Do you know if the "cobblers heel ball" is made using the natural raw rosin right off the tree, or is it processed rosin ? Todd Rosin is the hard and brittle substance you get when destilling turpentine out of raw pine pitch. So I don´t think it is a very good idea to try making hand sewing wax out of raw pine pitch as it will probably wind up in a mess , and if you get it on your hands you´ll be like Spiderman. So my advice is : Don´t do it ! / Knut Edited February 4, 2010 by oldtimer Quote "The gun fight at the O.K. corral was actually started by two saddlemakers sitting around a bottle of whiskey talking about saddle fitting"...
Members jimsaddler Posted February 4, 2010 Members Report Posted February 4, 2010 Mike........Thanks for the information. Do you know if the "cobblers heel ball" is made using the natural raw rosin right off the tree, or is it processed rosin ? Todd Hi Todd I actually used Resin straight from the Tree to experiment back in the 60's. Pine resin Wax mix turned out Crumbly. Gumtree Resin Mix was good but too sticky to use (Spiderman is a good description). White Lead made beaut White Wax for white Thread, BUT then came the fact that the Lead gets into your system. So I stopped that in the 70's. So back to the precessed Resin, Blond being prefferred. By the way a bit of Castor oil in the mix will help deter Mice. For Mike Have you tried a desert Spoon of Friars Balsam and a bit of Raw Linseed Oil in your Wax. I heard of a Shoemaker who was allergic (Had dermatitus) to Resin using it with no reaction. Don't know where you would get it nowadays. Please have a Happy Day. Kindest Regards. Jim Saddler. Quote
Members jasj Posted February 4, 2010 Members Report Posted February 4, 2010 Very interesting discussion about the use of resin. I had the good fortune to come by tools and gear from a distant relative who was a saddler in NSW Australia during the 1930s. Among the awls, punches etc was some single strand thread and a small 2 ounce tin labelled "SAYERS VENICE TURPENTINE". On the back of the tin it claims to be "A valuable home remedy for cuts sores ulcers, veterinary purposes etc" It is still over half full of a treacle consistency liquid, smelling a bit like turpentine. I wonder if anyone reading this knows if it was used in the saddlery trade,or was just for the uses on the label. Regarding the use of resin, I took a workshop with Stohlman Award winner Peter Main at the Dimensions In Leather Conference in the 1990s and he used resin on his threads. Have a great day wherever you are! Bye from Jim Quote
Members ToddB 68 Posted February 5, 2010 Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 Jasj , jimsaddler, oldtimer.......... Thanks for your replies ! Don't think I'll be trying the globs of raw pine sap straight off the tree anytime soon. Todd Quote
Members ChuckBurrows Posted February 5, 2010 Members Report Posted February 5, 2010 (edited) Rosin is the hard and brittle substance you get when destilling turpentine out of raw pine pitch. So I don´t think it is a very good idea to try making hand sewing wax out of raw pine pitch as it will probably wind up in a mess , and if you get it on your hands you´ll be like Spiderman. So my advice is : Don´t do it Well I have to respectfully disagree - I've been using collected natural pinyon pine pitch (aka resin) now for about eight or nine years and it works fine. I collect the raw pitch from where it's oozed out and semi-solidifeied on damaged sections of the tree (or tap a couple od trees just enough to get some ooze and let it air dry), then I heat the collected pitch until melted and spoon off as much dross as possible - the heat cooks off most of the turpenes leaving behind the solids aka rosin - do this in a well ventilated area and don;t over cook it that will make it too brittle. While collecting you may also find balls of solidified pitch (natural rosin)- this works good as well as the softer stuff - I heat it just enough to clean it. I collect enough once a year or so to last a couple of years. I tried filtering through cheesecloth and for me that didn't work so well. What I do instead is use the small yogurt containers or similar tallish, narrow containers. Pour the melted pitch into the containers (hold them down in a pan of cold water) and let the pitch harden. Once hardened cut away the plastic and you'll find that the remaining dross will have collected at one end - cut that section off leaving you with a nice clean glob of pitch. I like mine hard enough that I can dent it with my fingernail but no harder. If it's too soft cook it some more but keep an eye on it. If too hard mix with some that's too soft. After you work with it a while you'll learn the right consistency. I generally mix it 60/40 pitch to beeswax and a teaspoon or two of EVOO or castor oil per pint of pitch/wax - that's not as sticky as most of the shoemaker's like, but for me it works great. On the other hand you can buy a pound of Brewer's Pitch from James Townsend and Sons for about $15.00 and it will last a long time - but I like doing things myself. As to getting raw pitch on your hands it's easy to clean off - alcohol, acetone, or gum turpentine takes it off - Use Everclear and you can also mix some in with your Sangria - shades of Jerry Jeff BTW - resin is the proper term for the raw pitch, rosin is the finished product although the terms are often used somewhat interchangeably. Edited February 5, 2010 by ChuckBurrows Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
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