my handsewing technique

[jimsaddler]

Man you arn't kiddn about that!!! If you stopped and scratched your leg in the middle of the first stitch you better find a place to scratch every time!!! LOL

I work for Springfield Leather (upper right hand corner) and I teach a lot of people how to hand sew in a days time, we have ton of sewing machines , but man there is real satisfaction in having to say, "no its hand sewn"

The holes MUST be consistant weather drilled or punched ( I perfer punched the stitches tighten up as the leather shrinks back,) they should always be at the same angle and distance. The back not looking even will also be cause by your awl or drill bit not going through straight up and down, the thicker the leather the more it can deflect. But what ever you do I always start with the front stitch, once it is through it should be held down and away at a little bit of an angle which will let the back thread lay kind of on top and beside the lower thread, which ever direction you pulled the thread away, always pull it the same way. You must be very careful that everything happens the same dirrection every time, I know thats been said be it can't be said enuff!! hope this helps

Dear RustyD

The best Stitchers that I have employed worked mechanically. In fact they sang all day in unison while sewing Harness Traces at 8 spi x 5/8" thick x 6"3" long, two rows. Every stitch was perfect, both back and front. I bought them the biggest Tape Player available to play music and it paid off with the results.

Why I quote this is to emphasize that you are right, every stitch must be the same as the previous one. The best way is to get used to one Awl for each size of thread and be comfortable with it to the point that you forget to concentrate and it becomes like driving a Car, Natural reflexes for the job.

I've never drilled holes as round holes are not good for sewing as the core of the Leather is removed. Punching has it's uses but again the Holes are bigger so the resulting Stitch has to be bigger.

When using a good Awl and I want as near to perfect Stitching as possible, a good Pricking Iron that is sharpened to a point is used. The reasons being, it will come out of the Leather easily and the Awl will follow and enter the centre of the hole every time. Thus making as near to perfect a stitch as possible. I have 3 Irons in each of popular stitch sizes (8,10,12), a full Iron, 2 Teeth ground of and a half Iron. This allows for shorter and longer splices to be set-up easily by combining the Irons. Every tooth is pointed to a wide V which actually helps to bounce the iron out after driving it into the Leather, as well as putting the centre in the hole.

I hope this helps some of you get the perfect slope back and front (refer to previous post on stitching) that looks so good. Someday I'll get to be able to download some photo's of the methods when I work out how to do it.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

[RandyScott]

Someday I'll get to be able to download some photo's of the methods when I work out how to do it.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Is there anyone who lives close to Jim who can teach him how to down load his photos?

[blinddog]

Hi All,

Just ran across this thread, and couldn't find any good pics of my 12# or finer handstitching,

so I took this one of a quick and dirty swivel knife sheath I made years ago. I don't claim it's

a great example of fine handstitching (note the bobble in the middle of the top row!), but it's

an illustration of how fine you can go with needles and an awl.

As I recall this was sewn with waxed 2 cord Barbour's linen, and I eyeballed the 12 spi. 'cause I

didn't have a #12 overstitch at the time.

Happy Trails,

Jeff

Edited February 28, 2010 by blinddog

[chouinardragon]

Hello Jim Saddler,

No wonder when I study the stitches of Hermes, they always appear flat slots on the back and round holes on the front.

I have few questions on hand stitching.

1) Questions on Awls.

if the SPI is less than 12, what kind of awl should be used? The round awl with flat tip or the diamond awl we used to use?

If it is the round awl with flat tip, the stitching holes on the front probably will not as big as the marks made by pricking irons.

If it is the diamond awl we used to use, should we make half knots on the back? Also, if the diamond awl is used, the stitches on the front will not appear / / / / / but \ \ \ \ \, right ? So, is there any other ways to stitch?

2)Questions on Thread.

As we know, Hermes uses "Fil au Chinois" linen thread. There are many sizes. 332,432,532,632,832,1032,1532. The bigger the number, the finer the thread.

The 532 and 632 are mostly used. Are they as big as the 18/3 and 25/3 thread of Barbour's?

Thank you.

Chris

Hi all

This Awl cuts the Leather then the Body stretches the Leather open to allow the Needles to be passed through. there is no room for the threads to do anything but lay in place neatly. The back thread is thrown over to create a SINGLE KNOT knot in the material and the thread pulled up firm completes the stitch. If done properly the Back will look as good as the Face side and have the same lay. The Knot will help to hold the stitch even when the Thread is worn on the surface. I add that the Needles should be much finer than the thread and the thread tapered to allow the Needles to be placed on the taper so they can be pulled through easily. (Hand made Waxed end Linen (Hemp) or Silk is by far the Best thread to use) But it all boils down to Practise Practise and more practise.

[jimsaddler]

What a funny coincidence.

T0-day i was showing a Couple how to improve their Hand Stitching. Using my fine Awls. They were amazed at the difference it made to have just the tip as the Blade to cut the Leather and make such neat tight stitching. Then I got your questions, so I'm well prepared.

Firstly I really want to do some Photo's at least but a Video would be better. I'm a bit closer now as I am updating the Saddlers & Harness Makers Association of Australia page now and learning a lot about downloading from doing it. All I need now is a Camera person.

For coarser Stitching a Diamond profile will do from say 9SPI and coarser and leave a good stitch. Even the Finer Stitching can be done with Diamond but it weakens the Stitch because of the extra width.

Actually the Pricking Iron sets the surface for your stitch to lay in. I have ground my Irons finer and to a Steeple point for ease of use. So the marks are finer on the Leather than those of an altered Iron. The result is that when the round shaft of my Awls fits better. Then the Stitch pulls tight and neat into the impression of the Pricking Iron (Don't drive too deep as it is a guide). Always throw the back thread over the Needle to make a half Knot as it serves 2 purposes,1, it evens up the slope of the back stitch to match the slope of the front for neat finish,2, The knot acts to hold the stitch in place like a Screw, especially as the Wax of the thread sticks the thread to the Leather (this is why we use Resin in the Wax) over time. Good Sewing will hold even when the top of stitches wears off because of this.

Remember the aim of good stitching is to be very neat so the Back stitch should always slope the same way as the front just as you state. Awl cuts /// on front Stitch is \\\ and a mirror image on the back.

Regarding threads.

I mourn the passing of good Patent Hemps here in Australia. We can only get #12 Shoe Thread which is too coarse #15 patent is the best, especially in Golden colour. Lately I am using .6mm Italian Poly Braided Thread in White. it is round in profile and sits neatly in the Stitch hole. the flat Braids look bigger than they should in the hole.

Please remember that I am lost when machine thread sizes are quoted. My size recognition runs to 2,3,4,5,6 Cords and 6,8,10,12,18,20 for Machines.(Old sizes). 2 cord Waxed end for #12 spi, 3 cord for #10spi, 4 for 8spi, 5 & 6 for 6spi.

Now I'm using this Braid it is .6mm 10 & 12 spi, .8mm 8 spi, 1.0mm 6spi. I bought it on special clearance for Au$20 and it is like Tiger thread. It will take about 20 years to see how it lasts. So far so good?

The other way of stitching that I use sometimes is single needle, but not often. The same principal applies there also. Throw your back stitch! or sometimes I actually throw twice to form a surface knot. This is used for the like of Girth Strap anchoring so that if one stitch is cut it wont undo.

So endeth the Sermon for to-day!

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Oh by the way some of the people who are learning from me are going to come when it warms up and do the filming for me. It's too cold at present as GLOBAL COOLING is affecting us badly here.

Hello Jim Saddler,

No wonder when I study the stitches of Hermes, they always appear flat slots on the back and round holes on the front.

I have few questions on hand stitching.

1) Questions on Awls.

if the SPI is less than 12, what kind of awl should be used? The round awl with flat tip or the diamond awl we used to use?

If it is the round awl with flat tip, the stitching holes on the front probably will not as big as the marks made by pricking irons.

If it is the diamond awl we used to use, should we make half knots on the back? Also, if the diamond awl is used, the stitches on the front will not appear / / / / / but \ \ \ \ \, right ? So, is there any other ways to stitch?

2)Questions on Thread.

As we know, Hermes uses "Fil au Chinois" linen thread. There are many sizes. 332,432,532,632,832,1032,1532. The bigger the number, the finer the thread.

The 532 and 632 are mostly used. Are they as big as the 18/3 and 25/3 thread of Barbour's?

Thank you.

Chris

[chouinardragon]

Hello Jim Saddler,

Thank you.

I'd like to see your round awl and pricking irons and your stitching tutorial.

I wish I could fly to Australia immediately to help you to hold the camera...

Chris

[alb]

me too!

Hello Jim Saddler,

Thank you.

I'd like to see your round awl and pricking irons and your stitching tutorial.

I wish I could fly to Australia immediately to help you to hold the camera...

Chris

[Lippy]

Hey Jim,

I'd come hold the camera, but Google Maps tells me I'd have to drive (from Oregon to Childers) over 13,000 miles and it would take over 54 days. That includes tolls, a ferry ride or two and a visit to Japan. So that's not happening anytime too soon. However, I might suggest mounting the camera on a tripod or on a stand above your workbench. If the camera was small enough you could mount it on a hardhat on top of your head.

And about thread sizes! Yikes. Attached is a chart I found on the web awhile back. Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Lippy

thread_Verlane.pdf

[jimsaddler]

Hi Lippy

I actually have a tripod. But to jump up and set the camera each time is beyond me. I now have several offers of help to get Photo's and a Video made for posting. Just waiting for our normally Mild Winter to return to normal, as its too cold at present.

Please keep pushing me.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

By the way there is a shortcut if you can dig fast enough nearly straight down (it's bit warm though).

Hey Jim,

I'd come hold the camera, but Google Maps tells me I'd have to drive (from Oregon to Childers) over 13,000 miles and it would take over 54 days. That includes tolls, a ferry ride or two and a visit to Japan. So that's not happening anytime too soon. However, I might suggest mounting the camera on a tripod or on a stand above your workbench. If the camera was small enough you could mount it on a hardhat on top of your head.

And about thread sizes! Yikes. Attached is a chart I found on the web awhile back. Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Lippy