Dye rubbing onto gun...HELP

[carljc72]

There has been a thread about this subject before but I have another question. Do you dye, buff and then slick the inside of the holster? Can you buff after slicking? Do you finish the inside with Resolene (or your choice) before assembly? I have a friend that has one of my recent holsters and he has dye coming off onto his Les Baer stainless. I asked him to give it back to me so I could hopefully fix the problem. I used Angelus Black, then used gum trag to slick, formed and boned and then I used an airbrush to spray Angelus acrylic high gloss. I am definitely going to change my process but does anyone have advice for fixing my "booboo"?

Thanks, Carl

[Lobo]

There has been a thread about this subject before but I have another question. Do you dye, buff and then slick the inside of the holster? Can you buff after slicking? Do you finish the inside with Resolene (or your choice) before assembly? I have a friend that has one of my recent holsters and he has dye coming off onto his Les Baer stainless. I asked him to give it back to me so I could hopefully fix the problem. I used Angelus Black, then used gum trag to slick, formed and boned and then I used an airbrush to spray Angelus acrylic high gloss. I am definitely going to change my process but does anyone have advice for fixing my "booboo"?

Thanks, Carl

Carl:

I know I am starting to sound like a broken record, and I know that there are forum members having significant experience that contradicts my own findings, but I will continue to recommend the use of neatsfoot oil compound as the primary finishing agent following holster forming and dying.

After more than 35 years of using neatsfoot oil as the primary finishing process I have never had a complaint of dye rubbing off on clothing or the handgun. Neatsfoot oil penetrates the leather, infusing the fibers, and seems to "set" the dye in the process.

Once the piece has fully dried after dying, I use a 1" paint brush to apply a single coating of neatsfoot oil to the exterior surfaces. That is allowed to settle into the leather overnight. Then I apply my final finishes, consisting of Fiebing's Bag Kote for a deep warm satin finish. When that has settled (about 2 to 4 hours) I apply an acrylic sealant for surface protection against moisture. Resolene works well if you like a higher gloss, I prefer another product (can't reveal everything here, can we?) to enhance the satiny sheen of the finish. There are several available, and a few trials with scrap pieces will lead you to a finish you can feel good about.

Note that neatsfoot oil can be overdone, excessive application will leave any leather article limp and useless. One application, and only one! This will provide very good long-term protection against moisture infiltration, and as I have observed, it will also settle the dye into the leather completely.

Note also that neatsfoot oil will ALWAYS darken a dyed leather product significantly. We must experiment with our dyes on scrap pieces before proceeding to the final finishing process. A light brown dye will be turned medium to dark brown. A medium brown dye will be turned very dark brown. A dark brown dye will be turned nearly ebony in final finish.

Neatsfoot oil, properly applied, also provides a moderate degree of flexibility without worrying about surface cracking. Holsters will accomodate themselves to belt attachments, and conform around the user's body contours very readily, while retaining the molded shape very well.

Fifty to one hundred years ago there was only one way to finish veg-tanned leather, and the old saddlers and holster makers all used neatsfoot oil, and perhaps a bit of beeswax. Many of those old holsters still exist, some in fine shape. I know of holsters that I made over 30 years ago that remain in use today.

Polymers and acrylics are wonderful products, properly applied and used. But there is no substitute for hundreds of years of experience with the old methods, which can be improved upon by some of the modern products.

Best regards.

[carljc72]

Once the piece has fully dried after dying, I use a 1" paint brush to apply a single coating of neatsfoot oil to the exterior surfaces.

What do you do to the interior? I am not having anything rub off on the outside...only on the inside. And can this holster be salvaged?

I use neatsfoot oil on some holsters and most of the straps I make. I am definitely not against its use. I have just never applied anything but an acrylic finish after slicking the inside.

Thanks,

Carl

[TwinOaks]

It sounds like perhaps the holstering and drawing of the weapon has removed the finish and slicking from the interior of the holster, letting it bleed. When dye is applied, it needs to be buffed to remove any excess. Since the holster's already sewn, you may have to resort to using a ruler or paint stick to buff the interior of the holster. You'll also need to reslick, then reseal it. Nothing...and I repeat NOTHING does as good a job on slicking leather as just good ol' work. You'll want to basically burnish the interior of the holster, prior to sealing. Once that's done, you need to apply the sealer in enough quantity to penetrate the leather and work it into the leather. Neatsfoot oil may do the trick, it may not - Lobo has had good success with it, and there IS that little thing about history and what's been used for a long time. I haven't enjoyed NF oil as much, but it's probably user error.

If you're intent on using an acrylic like Resolene, you might consider getting your hands all gummy (use exam. gloves) and smearing/rubbing the finish in. Spraying it doesn't give a thorough coating when you do it to the inside of a holster. There's also dipping it. If you use any type of oil and/or wax finish, keep in mind that warm leather absorbs better than cold leather.....just don't put it in the toaster oven and forget about it.

[Dwight]

Although I have done some differently, . . . usually I sew, . . . final form & bone, . . . dye, . . . then finish my holsters.

My last process is the same as Lobo, . . . an acrylic sealant, . . . and I use Resolene, in a 50/50 solution of Resolene and tap water. I apply it with a camel hair brush, . . . usually two coats. It takes about 20 minutes for a medium size pancake holster, . . . as you keep brushing and applying, until all the bubbles are broken down and the finish is smooth. It is similar to spit polishing shoes with Kiwi shoe polish.

I have never had dye come through the Resolene, . . .

May God bless,

Dwight

[Lobo]

What do you do to the interior? I am not having anything rub off on the outside...only on the inside. And can this holster be salvaged?

I use neatsfoot oil on some holsters and most of the straps I make. I am definitely not against its use. I have just never applied anything but an acrylic finish after slicking the inside.

Thanks,

Carl

The neatsfoot oil penetrates completely through the leather and infuses the fibers, including the interior. I apply to the exterior only because that allows for even absorption. Applying directly to the flesh side results in very rapid absorption, so there is less control of the application process. Following the settling period you can easily see that the oil has fully penetrated all areas.

So, neatsfoot oil is the basic finishing process. Application of the acrylic is a sealing process. The interior can be done with a swab, or the item can be dipped and allowed to drain. Dipping results in a more thorough job, in my opinion; it also uses considerably more of the solution (which I think is a good thing).

Good luck.

[Shorts]

Interesting.

I hadn't thought about dye rubbing off on the interior. But I carry a blued gun so I don't see it if it were. W

I don't do anything special with the interior that I don't do to the exterior. Just dye it (Angelus) and seal it (Resolene). I haven't had any customers approach me about dye rub off (yet). I know it can happen. Matter of fact my new brown holster left ruboff on the inside of my khaki shorts. It doesn't bother me either way but it might bother others, especially if it's a nice shirt or whatever.

What I would suggest is dying the inside of the holster before you glue and stitch. Then give it a good wipe down, either with a dry towel/cloth or with a swab of isopropyl. Experiment with it and see which works best. The isopropyl will show color, but use the dry cloth to test it out. Then stitch it up. When you seal it, even if you get a good thorough coat, it is still possible to rub off.

Might want to experiment with different products as well.

[carljc72]

Ok...I was hoping for wiggle your toes and chant 3 times and poof it would be fixed . It sounds like I need to change my methods a little (and work a little harder). Thank you everyone for all your great ideas.

Carl