Members hazymat Posted June 5, 2012 Members Report Posted June 5, 2012 I love this guide to perfect edges. I've still not completed my first perfect edge (mainly because the leather I'm using is difficult to burnish; it's a veg tanned leather but softer than normal tooling leather and although it burnishes, it doesn't shine and harden as well...) Anyway, I'm actually asking about saddle soap alternatives. Has anyone used Pears Soap before? I think it's a soap made with glycerin left in: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pears_soap It's about 10 times cheaper than getting Fiebings saddle soap (at least here in the UK)...
hidepounder Posted June 5, 2012 Author Report Posted June 5, 2012 I love this guide to perfect edges. I've still not completed my first perfect edge (mainly because the leather I'm using is difficult to burnish; it's a veg tanned leather but softer than normal tooling leather and although it burnishes, it doesn't shine and harden as well...) Anyway, I'm actually asking about saddle soap alternatives. Has anyone used Pears Soap before? I think it's a soap made with glycerin left in: http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Pears_soap It's about 10 times cheaper than getting Fiebings saddle soap (at least here in the UK)... I use the bar form of Fiebings glycerine for two reasons. In bar form the process of rubbing the soap onto the leather edge helps to "round" the edge. Also it is easier to apply. Any form of bar soap would probably work just fine. I use the paste soap on my burnishing cloth (mechanical burnisher) to control the heat produced by the friction. Also applying the paste soap to the burnishing cloth is easier than working the glycerine bar into the cloth. I was taught to use both soaps and I still feel I get better results than when I jsut use one or the other. I really don't have an explanation for that. It's always been one of those "if ti ain't broke don't fix it" things...... Hope this helps... Bobby
Members Lorrso Posted July 3, 2012 Members Report Posted July 3, 2012 Bob, I mostly do dogs stuff and horse tack and your tutorial definitely changed my edges: I want to thank you for sharing the "secret" with us! I have a question about edge dye product: my usual provider doesn't sell anymore Fiebing's Edge Dye. Can I use other spirit-based, Fiebing's Leather Dye, for edges too? Is there any substantial differences between the two products? Thank you very much, Lorenzo
hidepounder Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Posted July 3, 2012 Bob, I mostly do dogs stuff and horse tack and your tutorial definitely changed my edges: I want to thank you for sharing the "secret" with us! I have a question about edge dye product: my usual provider doesn't sell anymore Fiebing's Edge Dye. Can I use other spirit-based, Fiebing's Leather Dye, for edges too? Is there any substantial differences between the two products? Thank you very much, Lorenzo Hi Lorenzo! I never use edge dye. I only use Fiebings spirit based dye (alcohol). It is quickly absorbed and dries much faster which helps to reduce the possibility of getting wet dye on my hands and transferring it somewhere where I don't want it. I have never been happy with edge dyes and I don't use edge coatings. Hope this helps! Bobby
Members Lorrso Posted July 3, 2012 Members Report Posted July 3, 2012 Hi Lorenzo! I never use edge dye. I only use Fiebings spirit based dye (alcohol). It is quickly absorbed and dries much faster which helps to reduce the possibility of getting wet dye on my hands and transferring it somewhere where I don't want it. I have never been happy with edge dyes and I don't use edge coatings. Hope this helps! Bobby Sure it helped! I will go for alcohol-based Leather Dye then. Again, Thanks a lot! Lorenzo
Members tielz Posted July 4, 2012 Members Report Posted July 4, 2012 Thank you for sharing this wonderful tutorial!
Members rugershooter Posted September 12, 2012 Members Report Posted September 12, 2012 Hey Bob, Thanks for you detailed instructions for finishing edges, finally I found the process and you cut years off of my trial and error! I am working on a Logbook over the involves a calf lining and calf/plastic document pockets that is glued to a 3 ounce cowhide. The logbook/document holder will be finished with a 1 1/2" to 2" calf trim, and would like to know the following; 1. How do I turn the trim on the rounded corners without any "crimping" of the leather (like these bags http://benscycle.blogspot.com/2011/05/gilles-berthoud.html) and keep an even amount of trim on both sides of the edge? I will be hand sewing with a diamond awl and 5 cord Barbours linen thread. Incidentally, I originally folded the edges of the calf leather trim after soaking and "gimped" or made three slits on the inside of the leather trim, which eliminated the "crimping," but distorted the shape and size of the trim. In other words, I was not left with a clean 1/4" folded trim on each side of the logbook holder. I even practiced sewing the trim and the glue did not hold on the edge of the project. Yours any other crafts person's response would be greatly appreciated, since I know with the right machine I can sew trim, but as everyone knows, machine of not we need to always be proficient at hand sewing! Thank you in advance..... Regards, Drew............ Hello everybody, I receive quite a few PM's and emails requesting information on edges, finger cutting, tooling patterns and various other topics. Questions regarding some of these topics come up on a fairly regular basis, so I thought I would put something together that members could easily refer to. This article describes the way I finish edges and Johanna has posted it in the "Tips & Tricks" section on the main page. I hope that some of you will find it helpful. Finishing Edges Bob
Members Dogface Posted October 6, 2012 Members Report Posted October 6, 2012 Wow....I've been doing leather work for a fairly long time and had decent edges but this will rocket my stuff to the top...Many thanks...
Members macdaddytoolin Posted November 1, 2012 Members Report Posted November 1, 2012 Bob Parks is a true AMERICAN HERO!!!!
hidepounder Posted November 1, 2012 Author Report Posted November 1, 2012 ....LOL! Glad I could help!! Hey Bob, Thanks for you detailed instructions for finishing edges, finally I found the process and you cut years off of my trial and error! I am working on a Logbook over the involves a calf lining and calf/plastic document pockets that is glued to a 3 ounce cowhide. The logbook/document holder will be finished with a 1 1/2" to 2" calf trim, and would like to know the following; 1. How do I turn the trim on the rounded corners without any "crimping" of the leather (like these bags http://benscycle.blo...s-berthoud.html) and keep an even amount of trim on both sides of the edge? I will be hand sewing with a diamond awl and 5 cord Barbours linen thread. Incidentally, I originally folded the edges of the calf leather trim after soaking and "gimped" or made three slits on the inside of the leather trim, which eliminated the "crimping," but distorted the shape and size of the trim. In other words, I was not left with a clean 1/4" folded trim on each side of the logbook holder. I even practiced sewing the trim and the glue did not hold on the edge of the project. Yours any other crafts person's response would be greatly appreciated, since I know with the right machine I can sew trim, but as everyone knows, machine of not we need to always be proficient at hand sewing! Thank you in advance..... Regards, Drew............ Sorry, Drew, I missed your post! I'm sure you've finished your project by now, but I'll try to answer your question. I'm terrible when it comes to sewing, but what I do is skive the leather very thin, wet it, and when I turn it, I gather it in little pleats and use a modeling tool to rub them out smooth. The leather will compress and dry very neat. Peter Main published an article in the LC&SJ a few years ago which was excellent in explaining this method. It's the Jan/Feb 2001 edition. I think it's called "Turning Edges" or something similar. You need that article! Hope this helps! Bobby
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