Finishing Edges

[qlthreadhead]

Hi Beka,

I only use Fiebings spirit based ( alcohol) dye on my edges. It penetrates quickly and dries quickly as well. I have never used an oil based dye on my edges but the feedback I get indicates that it doesn't penetrate as well. I know it takes a lot longer to dry, also, which is problematic because of the likelihood of picking up dye on your hands and transferring it on the surface which will ruin the piece.

The edge dye that Fiebings makes is very thick and slow to penetate. I don't use it.

Hope this helps....

Bobby

thank you so much! I picked up some of the regular alcohol-based dye that fiebings makes and tested it on a few edges -- not only does it give a much better result, but it's also better dye overall. you need less applications and it soaks in way faster. appreciate your help bob!

[mnagis]

Thanks for the tutorial Bob. As a newbie, this is invaluable information. Can these same steps work with non-veg tanned leather, such as shell cordovan which is much more dense? Also, as a final dumb question, how do you wrap the motorized wood burnishing wheel with canvas? I may be picturing what you mean incorrectly.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks again,

Mark

[hidepounder]

Thanks for the tutorial Bob. As a newbie, this is invaluable information. Can these same steps work with non-veg tanned leather, such as shell cordovan which is much more dense? Also, as a final dumb question, how do you wrap the motorized wood burnishing wheel with canvas? I may be picturing what you mean incorrectly.

Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks again,

Mark

Hi Mark,

I don't know what shell cordovan is so I can't comment on it. In general, chrome tanned leather just doesn't burnish. There are some exceptions, though. Sometimes exotics like alligator and ostrich can be skived very thin and glued to a piece of veg tanned leather and then they will burnish acceptably.

For the canvas, I just taped it on with elelctrical tape, saturated it with water & saddle soap and then formed it to the wood. After a time it will completely form to the wood and the flap will stay down.

Hope this helps.....

Bobby

Edited March 7, 2012 by hidepounder

[Chavez]

Hi Bob!

Thank you for the great tutorial!

I've read that someone was using felt bobins to burnish the edges. Does anyone know if I need to put some saddle soap or wax on them first? I've tried burnishing with them and the result was not great =(

[hidepounder]

Hi Bob!

Thank you for the great tutorial!

I've read that someone was using felt bobins to burnish the edges. Does anyone know if I need to put some saddle soap or wax on them first? I've tried burnishing with them and the result was not great =(

I can't answer your question because I've never tried them. I stick with the canvas and saddle soap simply because "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

[Bluesman]

I can't answer your question because I've never tried them. I stick with the canvas and saddle soap simply because "if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

I do it Like Bob............................Work's Great. Some work, but great results. Good things don't happen without some sweat.............

[AdrianS]

Hello,

I'm quite new to leather working. I know most of you use thick vegetable tanned leathers, but would this method work on softer, chrome tanned upholstery leathers?

I tried a similar technique and the edge looked great, but after a lot of flex, the burnished wax turned into a big crumbly mess.

Perhaps someone here can suggest a method for softer leathers?

Thank you.

[hidepounder]

Hello,

I'm quite new to leather working. I know most of you use thick vegetable tanned leathers, but would this method work on softer, chrome tanned upholstery leathers?

I tried a similar technique and the edge looked great, but after a lot of flex, the burnished wax turned into a big crumbly mess.

Perhaps someone here can suggest a method for softer leathers?

Thank you.

Hi Adrian!

Unfortunately chrome tanned leather won't burnish. Best to do a bound edge. However if it is combined with a piece of veg tanned leather burnishing is possible by skiving the chrome tanned leather paper thin before gluing to the the veg tan. Hope this helps....

Bobby

[Bard Skye]

Bob

First off, Thank You! for the tutorial. I had no idea of how to deal with edges until I read it. My edges still need a lot of work, but at least now it looks like I have a clue or two. (Practice, practice, practice! Likewise for my stitching....)

I have a couple of questions.

I just finished a magazine holster for a friend. As you can see in the first pic, the base piece flares out to accomodate the belt loops. I burnished and polished the top portion of the box edges before stitching it to the base, then completed the edge work after. The finished edge took a bit of a beating during stiching, so I'm not real happy with it.

I was wondering how you would have handled this.

In the second pic, the arrows point to what looks like a dividing line between the box and base. It's not. The line is about half way through the thickness of the base. I've had this happen on several pieces now. It seems like as soon as I have one sanded out, another one appears. Any ideas why this might be happening?

Thanks.

Skye

[hidepounder]

Skye,

Every project is different. Sometimes I sew before I finish my edges and sometimes the other way around. I sew with a machine so it's not quite as hard on the edges as hand sewing is. I think you might be sewing a little too close to the edge and for me your thread is too heavy. I prefer lighter thread than heavy. The way to get around beating up the edge is to leave everything oversized and then trim back to your sewing and finish the edge. The lines appear to be where you have glued pieces together, but if that's not the case I'm not sure what is going on there. I think I'd have to see it person to get a better idea....sorry!

Take care....

Bobby

Bob

First off, Thank You! for the tutorial. I had no idea of how to deal with edges until I read it. My edges still need a lot of work, but at least now it looks like I have a clue or two. (Practice, practice, practice! Likewise for my stitching....)

I have a couple of questions.

I just finished a magazine holster for a friend. As you can see in the first pic, the base piece flares out to accomodate the belt loops. I burnished and polished the top portion of the box edges before stitching it to the base, then completed the edge work after. The finished edge took a bit of a beating during stiching, so I'm not real happy with it.

I was wondering how you would have handled this.

In the second pic, the arrows point to what looks like a dividing line between the box and base. It's not. The line is about half way through the thickness of the base. I've had this happen on several pieces now. It seems like as soon as I have one sanded out, another one appears. Any ideas why this might be happening?

Thanks.

Skye

[hazymat]

I love this guide to perfect edges. I've still not completed my first perfect edge (mainly because the leather I'm using is difficult to burnish; it's a veg tanned leather but softer than normal tooling leather and although it burnishes, it doesn't shine and harden as well...)

Anyway, I'm actually asking about saddle soap alternatives.

Has anyone used Pears Soap before? I think it's a soap made with glycerin left in: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pears_soap

It's about 10 times cheaper than getting Fiebings saddle soap (at least here in the UK)...

[hidepounder]

I love this guide to perfect edges. I've still not completed my first perfect edge (mainly because the leather I'm using is difficult to burnish; it's a veg tanned leather but softer than normal tooling leather and although it burnishes, it doesn't shine and harden as well...)

Anyway, I'm actually asking about saddle soap alternatives.

Has anyone used Pears Soap before? I think it's a soap made with glycerin left in: http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Pears_soap

It's about 10 times cheaper than getting Fiebings saddle soap (at least here in the UK)...

I use the bar form of Fiebings glycerine for two reasons. In bar form the process of rubbing the soap onto the leather edge helps to "round" the edge. Also it is easier to apply. Any form of bar soap would probably work just fine. I use the paste soap on my burnishing cloth (mechanical burnisher) to control the heat produced by the friction. Also applying the paste soap to the burnishing cloth is easier than working the glycerine bar into the cloth. I was taught to use both soaps and I still feel I get better results than when I jsut use one or the other. I really don't have an explanation for that. It's always been one of those "if ti ain't broke don't fix it" things......

Hope this helps...

Bobby

[Lorrso]

Bob,

I mostly do dogs stuff and horse tack and your tutorial definitely changed my edges: I want to thank you for sharing the "secret" with us!

I have a question about edge dye product: my usual provider doesn't sell anymore Fiebing's Edge Dye. Can I use other spirit-based, Fiebing's Leather Dye, for edges too? Is there any substantial differences between the two products?

Thank you very much,

Lorenzo

[hidepounder]

Bob,

I mostly do dogs stuff and horse tack and your tutorial definitely changed my edges: I want to thank you for sharing the "secret" with us!

I have a question about edge dye product: my usual provider doesn't sell anymore Fiebing's Edge Dye. Can I use other spirit-based, Fiebing's Leather Dye, for edges too? Is there any substantial differences between the two products?

Thank you very much,

Lorenzo

Hi Lorenzo!

I never use edge dye. I only use Fiebings spirit based dye (alcohol). It is quickly absorbed and dries much faster which helps to reduce the possibility of getting wet dye on my hands and transferring it somewhere where I don't want it. I have never been happy with edge dyes and I don't use edge coatings.

Hope this helps!

Bobby

[Lorrso]

Hi Lorenzo!

I never use edge dye. I only use Fiebings spirit based dye (alcohol). It is quickly absorbed and dries much faster which helps to reduce the possibility of getting wet dye on my hands and transferring it somewhere where I don't want it. I have never been happy with edge dyes and I don't use edge coatings.

Hope this helps!

Bobby

Sure it helped! I will go for alcohol-based Leather Dye then.

Again, Thanks a lot!

Lorenzo

[tielz]

Thank you for sharing this wonderful tutorial!

[rugershooter]

Hey Bob,

Thanks for you detailed instructions for finishing edges, finally I found the process and you cut years off of my trial and error!

I am working on a Logbook over the involves a calf lining and calf/plastic document pockets that is glued to a 3 ounce cowhide.

The logbook/document holder will be finished with a 1 1/2" to 2" calf trim, and would like to know the following;

1. How do I turn the trim on the rounded corners without any "crimping" of the leather (like these bags http://benscycle.blogspot.com/2011/05/gilles-berthoud.html) and keep an even amount of trim on both sides of the edge?

I will be hand sewing with a diamond awl and 5 cord Barbours linen thread. Incidentally, I originally folded the edges of the calf leather trim after soaking and "gimped" or made three slits

on the inside of the leather trim, which eliminated the "crimping," but distorted the shape and size of the trim. In other words, I was not left with a clean 1/4" folded trim on each side of the

logbook holder. I even practiced sewing the trim and the glue did not hold on the edge of the project.

Yours any other crafts person's response would be greatly appreciated, since I know with the right machine I can sew trim, but as everyone knows, machine of not we need to always be

proficient at hand sewing!

Thank you in advance.....

Regards, Drew............

Hello everybody,

I receive quite a few PM's and emails requesting information on edges, finger cutting, tooling patterns and various other topics. Questions regarding some of these topics come up on a fairly regular basis, so I thought I would put something together that members could easily refer to. This article describes the way I finish edges and Johanna has posted it in the "Tips & Tricks" section on the main page. I hope that some of you will find it helpful.

Finishing Edges

Bob

[Dogface]

Wow....I've been doing leather work for a fairly long time and had decent edges but this will rocket my stuff to the top...Many thanks...

[macdaddytoolin]

Bob Parks is a true AMERICAN HERO!!!!

[hidepounder]

....LOL! Glad I could help!!

Hey Bob,

Thanks for you detailed instructions for finishing edges, finally I found the process and you cut years off of my trial and error!

I am working on a Logbook over the involves a calf lining and calf/plastic document pockets that is glued to a 3 ounce cowhide.

The logbook/document holder will be finished with a 1 1/2" to 2" calf trim, and would like to know the following;

1. How do I turn the trim on the rounded corners without any "crimping" of the leather (like these bags http://benscycle.blo...s-berthoud.html) and keep an even amount of trim on both sides of the edge?

I will be hand sewing with a diamond awl and 5 cord Barbours linen thread. Incidentally, I originally folded the edges of the calf leather trim after soaking and "gimped" or made three slits

on the inside of the leather trim, which eliminated the "crimping," but distorted the shape and size of the trim. In other words, I was not left with a clean 1/4" folded trim on each side of the

logbook holder. I even practiced sewing the trim and the glue did not hold on the edge of the project.

Yours any other crafts person's response would be greatly appreciated, since I know with the right machine I can sew trim, but as everyone knows, machine of not we need to always be

proficient at hand sewing!

Thank you in advance.....

Regards, Drew............

Sorry, Drew, I missed your post!

I'm sure you've finished your project by now, but I'll try to answer your question. I'm terrible when it comes to sewing, but what I do is skive the leather very thin, wet it, and when I turn it, I gather it in little pleats and use a modeling tool to rub them out smooth. The leather will compress and dry very neat. Peter Main published an article in the LC&SJ a few years ago which was excellent in explaining this method. It's the Jan/Feb 2001 edition. I think it's called "Turning Edges" or something similar. You need that article!

Hope this helps!

Bobby

[teamroper55]

Bob, first off thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to respond to all of us. I saw that you apply your finish before you burnish so the saddle soap doesn't discolor the leather. I was wondering what your steps are when antiquing and edging Before I have been finishing my edge the finishing but I don't want to stain my leather with the soap.

Edited November 4, 2012 by teamroper55

[hidepounder]

My process doesn't change at all. I antique everything. I try not to get a lot of saddle soap build-up on the face of the leather, but when I do I just wipe it off with a damp cloth. An abundance of soap build-up will effect your antique, but otherwise I haven't had a problem. I use Fiebings paste antique but I can't comment on the other antiques. Possibly the saddle soap will affect them more, I don't know.

Hope this helps!

Bobby

[Rattlerman]

Many thanks

[tkirwan]

thank you very much for sharing. as a newbie i can use all the leadership from masters i can get

[Wink]

Fantastic - I now have proper edges! Thanks Bob!!