Members cmantz Posted August 12, 2013 Members Report Posted August 12, 2013 When I back my nosebands with pigskin I don't burnish the edges. I use DuraEdge by Fiebings on these. Also, sew before you do your edges. Edges are last. Christine Mantz www.tacktemplates.com Specializing in acrylic templates for tack makers **TACK SETS - HALTER SETS - SPECIALTY - DELRIN STAMPS** We also offer custom acrylic templates and laser service on leather blanks
Members tboyce58 Posted October 23, 2013 Members Report Posted October 23, 2013 Thanks! This is very useful information!
Members 5shot Posted December 18, 2013 Members Report Posted December 18, 2013 Really old thread, but great info. Bob is THE man! My edges have never been better after following the process laid out in the OP.
Members VonTannin Posted December 30, 2013 Members Report Posted December 30, 2013 You mention using different wheels wrapped in either canvas or denim. How does one wrap something with canvas and keep the canvas on at high revolutions?
hidepounder Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Posted December 31, 2013 I just taped the cnavas onto my cocobolo wheel that came with my weaver machine. If you're using small dremel wheels I don't think you can do that. It takes a while to get the canvas to conform with the grooves on the wheel, but eventually it will stretch and fit the wheel nicely. Hope this helps...... Bobby
Members nrk Posted January 22, 2014 Members Report Posted January 22, 2014 I just taped the cnavas onto my cocobolo wheel that came with my weaver machine. If you're using small dremel wheels I don't think you can do that. It takes a while to get the canvas to conform with the grooves on the wheel, but eventually it will stretch and fit the wheel nicely. Hope this helps...... Bobby Hi Bob, 1.what is the RPM on the motor that have attached wheels for burnishing? 2. in case where two pieces are glued up flesh-to-flesh sides, what glue gives so even lookup that holds fibers 'forever' and the method of using (hand press, or maybe manually hammering down) sincerely
Members 5shot Posted January 22, 2014 Members Report Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) You mention using different wheels wrapped in either canvas or denim. How does one wrap something with canvas and keep the canvas on at high revolutions? I use a little contact cement to get one end to stick on the wheel and then just a bit at the other end of the strip to get it to stick to itself. Edited January 22, 2014 by 5shot
Members Durhamleatherman Posted January 27, 2014 Members Report Posted January 27, 2014 Hi Bob, Just wanted to add my thanks for your generous help in improving my edge burnishing. Don't get much chance to practice my interest in leather working with small kids and "real" work getting in the way but was able to try out your method recently. Fantastic improvement over my old Tandy edge slicker and gum trag method. Project was only a little bookmark for my oldest son but the edges came out incredibly smooth. That was just with hand rubbing with heavy canvass following method step by step. Can't wait t try it on a belt. Thank once again to you and all the skilled craftsmen out there who are prepared to share their knowledge. Take care.
hidepounder Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Posted January 31, 2014 Thanks for the kind words! I'm glad you found the process helpful. It's gratifying to be able to pay it forward. Best! Bobby
Members ToddB 68 Posted February 3, 2014 Members Report Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) Hi Bobby ! Looking a your 8 step tutorial Finishing Edges, at steps #3 and #4 you are applying the two soaps and then at step #5 applying a spirit dye because, as you say, "l prefer spirit dyes as they are absorbed into the leather rather than bonding to the outside, like edge paint." What evidence do you see that the spirit dye is soaking through the two soaps and into the leather ? Do you see signs of the dye leeching out into the leather field adjacent to the edges ? Or are you seeing some other evidence, such as a change in the sheen of the edges that convinces you the dye is soaking through the soaps and being absorbed by the leather ? I'm making a digging tool sheath out of 12oz. veg-tanned leather following the steps outlined in your tutorial Finishing Edges, except for a change of dye at step #5 (read on.). I have my parts cut out and first I plan to complete steps #1, #2, #3 and #4 applying the Fiebings glycerin and yellow paste saddle soaps, rubbing and burnishing, etc.. At step #5, I plan to apply black tea to the edges to add more tannin and then apply some well-aged vinegaroon on top of the tea, after which I'll neutralize the roon with a solution of baking soda/water and then rinse-off the baking soda with warm water. I assume the roon, being acid based, will penetrate through the two soaps and into the leather, same as the spirit dye, but I don't know what to look for as evidence, thus my questions above. Then I'll do the finishing steps #6, #7 and #8. At step #8, I believe Neat-Lac is no longer available, so will have to choose an alternate product. I've been searching the Internet for an alternate product, but shipping charges across the nation are so ridiculous ! For instance one company in Wyoming has an economical price of $4.50 on a 4oz. bottle of Quik Slik, but UPS standard shipping adds another $22.49, or you might as well say $27.00 total ! So, I'll see what I can find locally here in Ohio. Since I'm just getting started in leatherwork with my digging tool sheath, I want to keep costs down and you wouldn't believe how much I've invested already ! Thanks Bob.......I look forward to your reply ! ToddB68 Edited February 3, 2014 by ToddB68
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