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Posted (edited)

Ok Busted you got me wanting to unlace mine and put the innertube in but I wanna see some shots of your seat pan and the contours needed to accommodate the tube!

Edited by stealfdawg
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Posted (edited)

There's a pic in this thread:http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29901&st=0 Didn't work, try this,post-1704-039189800 1314655351_thumb.jpg Still crappy. Search for Mountain Bike Gel Seat in this section.

Edited by bustedlifter
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Posted

So did this help?

Ok so your photography is as good as mine!! Lol yea it helped a little I get the meat of what you did, now about the contour give it up man!!

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Posted

The sharp bend actually works better than a curve, which I used to do. I bend the cut out pan right down the middle,gives it more strength, then I bend it across the middle bend, for the back, then I shape it with a plastic mallet and some old body hammers on an old body dolly. Then I add the mounting bolts for the bracket and springs and add a rib down the center for added strength.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Very Nice!

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Posted

Some pics of my seat pans:post-1704-014706200 1314975277_thumb.jpgpost-1704-075889900 1314975297_thumb.jpgpost-1704-082572100 1314975323_thumb.jpg

10 gauge? nice contour and oddly enough my old corbin saddle (solo) has a very similar 'bend' instead of the curve sure it keeps the booty meat from slippin..stealf..

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Posted

10 gauge? nice contour and oddly enough my old corbin saddle (solo) has a very similar 'bend' instead of the curve sure it keeps the booty meat from slippin..stealf..

16 gauge, I prefer to use a lighter gauge then reenforce it a bit. I use a throat less shear to cut it, I'd never be able to cut and bend 10 like that with my primitive equipment.

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