ETW Grumpy Posted September 3, 2009 Report Posted September 3, 2009 I'm using Tan Eco-Flo Gel Antique on a Hermann Oak photo album cover. After tooling, I applied the gel using a sheepswool piece in a circular motion and immediately wiped the excess off with a damp paper towel. The result I got was very blotchy and streaky and in a couple of places you can see the pores in the leather where the stuff sank in and didn't wipe off. The finished product looks horrible to the point that I'm going to redo it. Is there something that I'm doing wrong, or some step that I'm leaving out? I thought I read the instructions and the books right. Do I need to dilute this stuff? Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted September 3, 2009 Members Report Posted September 3, 2009 I've only tried the gel antique once before, but didn't have any streaking problems with it. (I just thought it was a little glossier than I prefer to see.) I don't recall what the directions say for that product, but I'm pretty sure I used a dry paper towel to take off the excess. Kate Quote
Members kevinhopkins Posted September 3, 2009 Members Report Posted September 3, 2009 Hi... I'm not too familiar with the eco flo stuff... too many issues for me, but if I remember correctly, I think that stuff can be thinned with either tan kote or bick 4, and if so, it should stop the streaking and splotching. It's probably worth a try... Kevin Springfield leather co. Quote
Members iwannabeacowboy Posted September 4, 2009 Members Report Posted September 4, 2009 I don't know if it applies to Tan Eco-Flo Gel Antique but I read in another post to apply Neats Foot Oil on your leather, let it dry. Then apply your antique. What ever you end up doing, try it on scrap leather, when you cut your leather to size, cut some small pc's for testing purposes. Charlie Quote
Members Double U Leather Posted September 4, 2009 Members Report Posted September 4, 2009 (edited) I use the Eco Flo antique on almost all of my projects. Typically, I use the Sheridan style of finishing which is a) Neatsfoot Oil (let dry 24 hrs.) b)Neatlac (let dry thoroughly- overnight preferably) c) Antique (wipe off excess immediately and then dry for a good couple hours) d) Tan Kote...So far that formula has worked well. Bottom line- put some sort of resist on prior to antique........my two cents. Edited September 4, 2009 by leatherrookie Quote
ETW Grumpy Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Posted September 4, 2009 That all sounds like great advice. Looks like it's experimentation time. Thanks for all the inputs. I'll post back when I get some decent results. Quote
Members Tkleather1 Posted September 4, 2009 Members Report Posted September 4, 2009 When I antique I always use a resist. I found out the hard way why I needed to use a resist. When I didnt I got results just like you are talking about. with the resist it seems to either close or plug the pores and allows for a WAY more even finish. Now with all of that been said I use the Fiebings paste, I tried the eco flow once and did not like the coloring or the way it applied. One thing that I think you might be having trouble with also is that it is a water based product therefor when you used the damp cloth it probably took some of it off. Just my opinions Take them for what its worth to ya. Tim Worley TK-Leather Quote
hidepounder Posted September 4, 2009 Report Posted September 4, 2009 I'm using Tan Eco-Flo Gel Antique on a Hermann Oak photo album cover. After tooling, I applied the gel using a sheepswool piece in a circular motion and immediately wiped the excess off with a damp paper towel. The result I got was very blotchy and streaky and in a couple of places you can see the pores in the leather where the stuff sank in and didn't wipe off. The finished product looks horrible to the point that I'm going to redo it. Is there something that I'm doing wrong, or some step that I'm leaving out? I thought I read the instructions and the books right. Do I need to dilute this stuff? Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Grumpy, There are a couple options for you here. The first is that you need to clean your leather with oxalic acid before you antique. This removes the dirt and oils left on the leather from your hands which is one of the big reasons your antique turned out the way it did. The second option is to use a resist (sealer) like NeatLac before you apply the antique as some of the others have mentioned. You don't HAVE to use a resist, but if you are not going to it is very important to use the oxalic acid (leather bleach from Tandy. Also called wood bleach) to get the leather clean. Hope this helps.... Bobby Quote
ETW Grumpy Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Posted September 4, 2009 TK I think you're right about the damp cloth. I re-read the instructions and it says wipe on/off with a soft cloth. Duh! Bobby, I assume that wood bleach is available at Home Depot, can I use that? Any special instructions before I ruin another piece? Thanks all. Quote
Members Tkleather1 Posted September 4, 2009 Members Report Posted September 4, 2009 TK I think you're right about the damp cloth. I re-read the instructions and it says wipe on/off with a soft cloth. Duh! Bobby, I assume that wood bleach is available at Home Depot, can I use that? Any special instructions before I ruin another piece? Thanks all. I Couldnt find wood bleach at lowes or home depot I ended up finding it at Woodcraft. Quote
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