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I've got a hand full of products that are 20-30 years old. They look usable but I don't want to keep them around if not. I've got Fiebling's Tan-Kote, Tandy Leather Glow, Tandy Super Dye, Fiebing's Dye, saddle soap & carnauba cream. None of them are totaly separated or anything & I've used the Tan-Kote & dye on some scrap. They seem to be fine. Any reason why I should not use them???

Thanks, Bryan

Edited by Bryan

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I've got a hand full of products that are 20-30 years old. They look usable but I don't want to keep them around if not. I've got Fiebling's Tan-Kote, Tandy Leather Glow, Tandy Super Dye, Fiebing's Dye, saddle soap & carnauba cream. None of them are totaly separated or anything & I've used the Tan-Kote & dye on some scrap. They seem to be fine. Any reason why I should not use them???

Thanks, Bryan

If they were frozen and have separated, I would not use them. I have dye that's 30-40 years old, and they work great.Just test first.

Edited by frontpost

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If they were frozen and have separated, I would not use them. I have dye that's 30-40 years old, and they work great.Just test first.

Thanks frontpost. Guess I'll run with 'em. By the way, that avatar is great!

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A buddy gave me a can of Neat Lac. The label lacked a bar code and other indications of modenity so it's pretty darned old. I am new to Neat Lac so I don't know what it should look like but it was pretty yellow. I tried it anyway and WOW, what a nice finish. I liked the way it soaked in. I have struggled with finishes and like Sno-Seal the best but am by no means sold on it for other than its water proof qualities...it is sticky.

Anyway, this ancient Neat Lac worked well for me on my first attempt with the product. I'd say age is not an indicator. The cap was screwed on so tight I hade to use slip joint pliers to open it so it was sealed up nice and tight.

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A buddy gave me a can of Neat Lac. The label lacked a bar code and other indications of modenity so it's pretty darned old. I am new to Neat Lac so I don't know what it should look like but it was pretty yellow. I tried it anyway and WOW, what a nice finish. I liked the way it soaked in. I have struggled with finishes and like Sno-Seal the best but am by no means sold on it for other than its water proof qualities...it is sticky.

Anyway, this ancient Neat Lac worked well for me on my first attempt with the product. I'd say age is not an indicator. The cap was screwed on so tight I hade to use slip joint pliers to open it so it was sealed up nice and tight.

Yeah, I've had to use pliers on a couple of these as well. I've played with a few of the products now & am really exited. Until now I've only used some of the water based products & have not been so happy with the results. So far this stuff seems to be great. I suppose thats why they've been used for so many years. Makes me even more disappointed I can't get a lot of stuff here in ca. any more.

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I have made a leather holster for my S&W .38.  Dyed it black and buffed with shoe polish. The black comes off on my hands. What can I finish it with ?  :whistle:

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After dying I always put a coat of Resolene on the project to stop the dye form getting on my hands or anything else.  Just one coat is all it takes. I especially have problems with USMC Black dye.

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On 4/11/2021 at 7:35 PM, JamesCB said:

I have made a leather holster for my S&W .38.  Dyed it black and buffed with shoe polish. The black comes off on my hands. What can I finish it with ?  :whistle:

With black you really have to buff it well.

Start with a soft cloth or wool. Buff it. Buff it again. The buff it some more. When you think you're done, take a soft paper towel and buff it. If any dye pigment comes off, start over.

After buffing seal with your sealant of choice.

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Just posted in another thread, stay away from older Fiebings Edge Coat, it was a nightmare - I thought it would act like dye, nope...dried crusty. I was able to peel it off like plastic.

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