Members Mudruck Posted April 3, 2012 Members Report Posted April 3, 2012 Yea, wanted to say thank you as well. Always thought I was getting a good casing, but once I tried your tips it was like that lightbulb went on and POW! Now THAT is how leather is when it is properly cased. Thanks again!
Members Dustyn Posted June 29, 2012 Members Report Posted June 29, 2012 Sorry I'm new to leather working and don't quite understand what your saying when you say you soak it overnight. Do you put it in a pan of water overnight or is that the part that you use the trash bags on? If it is the trash bag do you soak it then put it in the bag overnight? Sorry for the newbie questions. Dustyn
Northmount Posted June 29, 2012 Report Posted June 29, 2012 (edited) Sorry I'm new to leather working and don't quite understand what your saying when you say you soak it overnight. Do you put it in a pan of water overnight or is that the part that you use the trash bags on? If it is the trash bag do you soak it then put it in the bag overnight? Sorry for the newbie questions. Dustyn The soaking overnight was for old leather that had really dried out. Soak only as long as there are bubbles rising. Soaking too long will take much longer to return to normal color before you can start working with it. Bagging it overnight right after soaking lets the moisture penetrate to the core. If the leather is light weight, less than say 6 oz, it doesn't take very long to get saturated. Heavier leather of course takes longer to soak up the water. After sitting in a bag overnight, take the leather out and let it dry until its natural (original) color starts to return. Then it is ready to work with. Bag it between work sessions to keep it from drying out completely. For large pieces that you can't tool in one session, cover with plastic wrap or other except for the area you are working on. Then bag it till your next work session. If it is getting too dry so it doesn't burnish well (darken when you are stamping it), then mist lightly with water. If it gets too wet, the crisp tooling swells and you lose definition. Hotter climates need refrigerated between tooling sessions to stop mold and mildew. Listerine and other antibacterials can reduce the tendency to mold and mildew. I don't have that problem here except for a couple weeks in the summer. Since I do most of my work in my basement, the temperature doesn't get over 70 F most of the time. Hope this helps. Go back and re-read the thread now, keeping these points in mind. Happy tooling! CTG Edit: Just saw this post too. moistening while tooling Edited June 29, 2012 by northmount
Members Dustyn Posted July 2, 2012 Members Report Posted July 2, 2012 Thanks for the clarification. I'm sure it will help my work look loads better!!
Members PD186 Posted August 21, 2012 Members Report Posted August 21, 2012 Thanks for this great info I have been wetting the leather rather than casing it and after trying your way I am getting a much better result. I had a look but havn't been able to find if you had a good way of backing a larger piece of leather that is to be stamped or carved that can be cased using the same way. Thanks Phil
hidepounder Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Posted August 21, 2012 Hi Phil! The method I use to back cased leather is to glue it, using ruber cement, to a piece of acrylic. I like the acrylic to be at least 1/4" thick. Using this method allows me to cover the leather with plastic wrap and then exposing only as much leather as I can tool in one sitting. If the residue of the glue on the back of the leather creates a problem for you, you can apply shelf lining to the back of the leather ILO gluing to acrylic. When using the shelf lining I find I cannot apply it to cased leather as easily as gluing to acrylic. However, once the shelf lining is in place water can be added to the surface of the leather and then the entire piece can be covered with plastic wrap, where again, you would only expose an area large enough to tool in one sitting. Some people like to use packing tape ILO of shelf liner, and either can applied and then be glued to a piece of acrylic if you are so disposed. Hope this helps! Bobby Thanks for this great info I have been wetting the leather rather than casing it and after trying your way I am getting a much better result. I had a look but havn't been able to find if you had a good way of backing a larger piece of leather that is to be stamped or carved that can be cased using the same way. Thanks Phil
Members TomG Posted August 21, 2012 Members Report Posted August 21, 2012 Sorry I'm new to leather working and don't quite understand what your saying when you say you soak it overnight. Do you put it in a pan of water overnight or is that the part that you use the trash bags on? If it is the trash bag do you soak it then put it in the bag overnight? Sorry for the newbie questions. Dustyn Dustyn: Read the whole thread here and/or look up the Peter Main method of casing - I think it's outlined in this thread.- don't have time to search through 4 pages for it <g> He uses some sort of artist board. It's a bit expensive to keep replacing though. I use a sheet of acrylic that I got from Hobby Lobby for $2 and use rubber cement to attach the leather. Wet, let dry to the proper level and cover with a piece of taped up window glass. Works OK, but I think Peter's method of using a larger piece of thick plate glass would probably work better to help distribute the moisture better. Tom Tom Gregory Legacy Leathercraft www.legacyleathercraft.com www.etsy.com/shop/legacyleathercraft
Members PD186 Posted August 22, 2012 Members Report Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks guys that was a big help I will get a big enough piece of the acrylic as I have a couple of wallet size pieces of leather I would like to have a go at now I understand casing the leather better.
hidepounder Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Posted August 22, 2012 Thanks guys that was a big help I will get a big enough piece of the acrylic as I have a couple of wallet size pieces of leather I would like to have a go at now I understand casing the leather better. Just a word of caution. The rubber cement is going to stick to the back of the leather and you will have a sticky residue when you're finished. If you are going to line the the piec, then the residue doesn't matter because it will be covered up. However, if you intend for the flesh side to remain exposed then it would be advisable to use shelf paper or packing tape to control stretch, as they can be removed without much residual glue. Some people apply the shelf paper or packing tape and then glue ti all down to the acrylic. Your option..... Hope this helps! Bobby
Moderator bruce johnson Posted August 22, 2012 Moderator Report Posted August 22, 2012 .... Some people apply the shelf paper or packing tape and then glue ti all down to the acrylic. Your option..... Hope this helps! Bobby We were discussing this in a carving class a few years ago. One guy pointed out that some people wear a belt and suspenders together too. Either one might be considered paranoid. Bruce Johnson Malachi 4:2 "the windshield's bigger than the mirror, somewhere west of Laramie" - Dave Stamey Vintage Refurbished And Selected New Leather Tools For Sale - www.brucejohnsonleather.com
Recommended Posts