HARVEY Posted October 13, 2009 Report Posted October 13, 2009 So I was thinking, I use the regular tracing and vellum paper to transfer patterns for tooling, but I know there must be a better way, The paper always soaks up the moisture out of the leather and get soggy, and you can't see through it clearly. So I was thinking about the old projector film that teachers use to use before the age of computers. I was thinking you can run it through a laser copier/printer and boom you've got a pattern that is perfect forever. So I went over to Staples and they have it, about $50 bucks a pack though. So has anyone else thought of this and does it work as good as I think it would, or am I going to have to spend 50 to find out? Let me know.... Thanks Brandon Brandon, Add me to the list of folks that use it. But only for patterns I will do more than once. Yes, it IS pricey. Also check Office Depot, even if online. I saw a pack for $33.00. The type I use is 3MCG600 and it works just fine. Again, I agree it IS pricey, but the ease of using it saves HOURS in tracing, the sheets ARE reuseable, and the overall convenience of it can't be beat. And as someone else said, one pack is gonna last you a LONG time. P.S.: If you want a "cheap" way to get it . . . Xmas is comin' up. You might put that on your "wants" list. I'm a hard guy to buy presents for, and folks that do ask me what I'd like appreciate when I say "Here's a list of 5 different things I would like." (Usually it's leather stuff.) It sure makes easier shopping for them. Good luck. Harvey Los Angeles Quote
Members Go2Tex Posted October 13, 2009 Members Report Posted October 13, 2009 I have used the transparency film but I find that the ink does rub off. Plus, it doesn't work well on curved surfaces, like fork covers on the tree. I use drafting mylar. I get the type with one side smooth. It is excellent for designing your pattern in pencil and then transferring to damp leather. I can tell immediately if the leather is ready for tracing if I see the moisture on the backside as I press the pencil or stylus on the mylar. It clear enough to see your guidelines, etc for lining it up too. Cost might be an issue as it is spendy but by far the best thing I've found for the job. You can get it here: http://www.draftingsteals.com/info.html Quote Brent Tubre email: BCL@ziplinkmail.com
tashabear Posted October 13, 2009 Report Posted October 13, 2009 Chuckle.. you too GMTA! Nice meeting you this weekend at KWCS! Quote
Members bex DK Posted November 1, 2009 Members Report Posted November 1, 2009 I had a box of ink jet transparencies that had been lying around for years. Just tried today. Trace with ball point, not stylus. Stylus scratched the ink off more. Ballpoint did a little, but left a visible line. Dunno the cost--this box is probably 5-6 yrs old now and barely used. But it is nicer than paper for things to reuse. Quote
Members DaltonMasterson Posted November 19, 2009 Members Report Posted November 19, 2009 I also use drafting mylar. It is pricey, but if you check around online, I have found it very reasonable. I am fortunate enough in my real job to have access to the city engineers. They use computers now, so they have rolls of the stuff they dont use, and they let me have a roll. It is nice stuff. Use your pencil on the rough side, then when your pattern is done, give it a quick spray of clear spray paint to keep it permanent. This has worked for me for several years now, and I havent worn out a pattern yet. DM Quote Specializing in holsters of the 1800s. http://www.freewebs.com/daltonmasterson/plumcreekleatherworks.htm
electrathon Posted November 20, 2009 Report Posted November 20, 2009 Aaron, an ink-jet printout will make a smeary mess on wet leather, but on dry leather, it does a very nice job of reproducing the image, and you can re-use the sheet you printed on. Kate, How do you deal with the ink on the leather as you are working with it? When you cut a line and you can see the edge of the ink line or when you wet the leather and the ink desolves and you slide your hand over it? My experience with inkjets is the ink is water soluable and will desolve when it gets wet. I will try this and see how it goes, but I am leary (I will try on a practice piece). I will try finding this post again too, every since the update I figure things are lost if I do not find it in new posts (and have now figured out if I view them once they are gone from that area even when others post after my viewing). Aaron Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted November 20, 2009 Members Report Posted November 20, 2009 Aaron, It does fade slightly when the water hits it, but it stays clear and visible plenty long enough (without smearing) to cut the design in. I've also found it helps to give the ink some sitting time (about 5-15 minutes or so) before putting the water on the leather. I'll post more photos when I have a chance. Kate Quote
electrathon Posted November 20, 2009 Report Posted November 20, 2009 What about visible ink at a later date? After the pattern has been carved? Does it lighten up where it is no longer visable, of do you have to try to rinse the color off the finished tooling? Quote
Members CitizenKate Posted November 20, 2009 Members Report Posted November 20, 2009 By the time I'm done carving, I can't see any ink on my projects at all. I think for the most part it must get buried in the tooling, but it also fades away over time. Here are photos of ones I did before carving, then another after. Kate Quote
Des804 Posted November 20, 2009 Report Posted November 20, 2009 Think one of those Kodak AiO printers would work ? Quote
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