Custom bags

[yldbill]

I've been looking at saddle bags for my motorcycle and have almost convinced myself to make my own. Does anyone know where to get the plastic stiffener that goes between the layers of leather to help the sides keep their shape. I'm planning on using 9/10 oz leather but was told that I still need to use a stiffener even with double thick sides, does that sound like overkill or common construction practices?

[David]

I've been looking at saddle bags for my motorcycle and have almost convinced myself to make my own. Does anyone know where to get the plastic stiffener that goes between the layers of leather to help the sides keep their shape. I'm planning on using 9/10 oz leather but was told that I still need to use a stiffener even with double thick sides, does that sound like overkill or common construction practices?

Im not a bag builder, but two pieces of 9-10oz leather with a stiffner sounds like over kill to me

David Theobald

[McJeep]

When you say double thick "sides" do you mean the outboard sides (the part you see when facing the bike from the side) or the sides that wrap around the bag? (what you would see from standing behind the bike - I usually call it the edge)

If you mean the edge, I would use the stiffener. The thisk sides will keep things from bulging outward, and the stiffener around the bag will keep it from accordion'ing when the bag isn't packed full with gear - I hope this makes sense - hard to describe :0/ My store bought leather bags have a stiffener panel inside and the way I pack em sometimes, I'm glad its there or the edges would accordion and the bottom would bulge eventually.

I would just go to any plastic shop and pick up something stiff but not brittle - then use a heat gun to mold it to rough shape of the bag - then force it inside the bag and put a couple rivets at the top edge front and back so it can't move around anywhere.

Your mileage may vary ;0)

[King's X]

I did a lot of my own motorcycle bag repairs prior to getting into making them, but I used to go to Homes depot and purchase the thin plastic "fake" or drop ceiling tiles (about 2.5 x 3.5") and just cut them into the width of the bag and length from one side to the other. It worked very well. I guess you can adhere it in between the leather pieces. I do have to admit as stated already that two pieces of 9/10oz is going to be really stiff. I hate to see your fingers if you decide to hand stitch them. wow.

Good luck.

[yldbill]

The double layers I am referring to would be the flat surface next to the bike and the surface that you see when looking at the bike from the side. After more thought I'm thinking that 2 layers of 9oz would be overkill. What I don't want, is to put all the work into a set of custom bags and then have them collapse in on the sides. I've seen some bags that can't be closed because there is a huge gap between the side and the overlap of the top.

[McJeep]

The double layers I am referring to would be the flat surface next to the bike and the surface that you see when looking at the bike from the side. After more thought I'm thinking that 2 layers of 9oz would be overkill. What I don't want, is to put all the work into a set of custom bags and then have them collapse in on the sides. I've seen some bags that can't be closed because there is a huge gap between the side and the overlap of the top.

Yup, the plastic reinforcement around the edges of the bag (front to back like a big "U" - the piece that wraps around the whole bag front to back) will keep the bag from collapsing by keeping the face of the bag, and back square to each other.

It's all about which look you prefer - some like the saggy weathered look of classic design saddlebags. Me, I like leather but like em to retain their form at the same time.

Some of the folks who actually build bags all the time will hopefully chime in here with regard to weight selection.

Cheers

Rob

[swinewerx]

Being that I will always make my own from scratch for stiffening purposes I have made metal frames very simple and does not take that much space. I don't like that though, there is another way to do this as well, which I have not tried yet. I was told by the onwer of the Tandy in Reno that when you are ready to stiffen the leather to dunk it in ammonia and make it dry in the shape you want it to stay at. The only reason I have not done this is, I usualyy tool our personal items extremeand dnking an item in liquid would/could make all the tooling in that area flatten out,. So be careful if you do this, possibly before tooling you could try this on some scrap leather and see how it tools after being wetted on the flesh side, to see if it can be done and not to stiff

[esantoro]

Though the prices seem a bit high, have a look at the plastics here:

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=181&step=2&top_cat=849

[ptanks56]

Been working on a set for my 79 Wing. Heavy saddle leather for inboards and outboards. Edge 10 oz. Stitching is rough but 3/4 finished. Tops will be easier 6 and 8 oz. Taking my time and working out hardware plans before all done so I don't have to take anything apart. The most stressful thing is turning the outboards and edges rightside out after stiching. That heavy leather and the zipper effect of stitching, along with trying very hard not to "over-work" the pieces. My clothes washer top was a perfecr form to keep everything the right shape in the rears but the front was swepped and I had to shape those with a plywood form I made with the correct profile. Pics to follow