Adler 30-1 Threading Problem

[Wizcrafts]

Ginny;

I just removed the leaf spring from my 29-4 patcher and laid it on a flat table, with the arch side up. I measured the highest point of the arch, and it is just barely over 3/8" above the table (1/4" max. on underside of arch). My tension is fully adjustable from very light to very heavy, with this amount of arch.

My spring is 1/8" thick and 11 3/16" long, if that matters. The measurement was made with the lift adjuster removed.

Edited November 20, 2009 by Wizcrafts

[ginny]

wiz, this confirms my 'fears'. i did the same for mine, (it is the exact same dimensions as yours btw, little over 11" long and 1/8" thick) and my arch is significantly greater. when measuring from the bottom to the top of the metal, (including the 1/8" thickness) it measures 1/2", and if measured to under the metal, 3/8" (obviously this makes sense as it is simply 1/8" less, or the width of the bar).

i am off to charleston sc for the weekend, to visit with family, but i will be online if i can, and will def. check in on sunday night.

thanks for this WONDERFUL thread, all the replies and this great website, leatherworker.net.

Ginny;

I just removed the leaf spring from my 29-4 patcher and laid it on a flat table, with the arch side up. I measured the highest point of the arch, and it is just barely over 3/8" above the table (1/4" max. on underside of arch). My tension is fully adjustable from very light to very heavy, with this amount of arch.

My spring is 1/8" thick and 11 3/16" long, if that matters. The measurement was made with the lift adjuster removed.

[Trox]

Tor, Man you rock. It would be an honor to recieve this gift from you. If you want to, just send it to me postage due or we can find out how much shipping will be and I can send you the money up front. What ever is the easiest for you.

My address is as follows:

Mark E. Caylor

59 Alabama Ave.

Victoria, Texas 77905

Let me know.

I stand in amazement of the support and generosity of the people on Leatherworker.net.

God Bless all of you.

Thanks Hawgman!

I’ve sent an email to the Norwegian postal service yesterday, and asked for the price sending it cash on delivery to the States. No answer yet. No time on Monday, but Tuesday I’m free to send it. I’ll send you a PM with the price and more info when I have it. There is lots of this old shoe repairing units for sale here in Norway. They are cheap to, because shoemakers and saddlers are a dying breed here. On Monday I’m picking up a used Adler 204-64 with a efka position motor, I bough for 4000 NOK (700 US $) and It’s in good condition. New it cost more than 100000 NOK here. I’ve got 2 working shoe sewing machines. One Adler and a Singer, and one Adler spare part machine. And 3 big saddler sewing machines. I can only use one at the time and this bobbin winders will not break anyway. So I’m only happy to help you! Later!

Tor

[CowboyBob]

Ginny,

FWIW the machines of these type are supposed to be used for repair work not finish sewing.I have seen people do some pretty nice work on them but you have to rub out the marks.

If the top foot doesn't mark the material then can't grab it enough to pull it through,I have known people that have ground off the teeth,you then may need to asist by pulling it & then it can also skip stitches if it gets too loose.

I measured an Adler 30-1 here & it has 10mm arch under the center of the spring which is alittle over 3/8"

Sure it's your machine & you can do what ever you want,it's just that I've been in this machine biz for over 29yrs & didn't want to see you damage the spring,Adlers parts aren't cheap,sure less arch will mark less but it'll still mark & then with less pressure it won't hold thicker leather down,this is why most Adler 30's will sew alittle heavier than Singers.

[Hawgman]

Thanks Hawgman!

I've sent an email to the Norwegian postal service yesterday, and asked for the price sending it cash on delivery to the States. No answer yet. No time on Monday, but Tuesday I'm free to send it. I'll send you a PM with the price and more info when I have it. There is lots of this old shoe repairing units for sale here in Norway. They are cheap to, because shoemakers and saddlers are a dying breed here. On Monday I'm picking up a used Adler 204-64 with a efka position motor, I bough for 4000 NOK (700 US $) and It's in good condition. New it cost more than 100000 NOK here. I've got 2 working shoe sewing machines. One Adler and a Singer, and one Adler spare part machine. And 3 big saddler sewing machines. I can only use one at the time and this bobbin winders will not break anyway. So I'm only happy to help you! Later!

Tor

Ok Tor I am waiting with much anticipation. Sounds like I need to come to Norway to look for some bargins. What a trip that would be.

[MikTigger]

I am having the same problem (plus others). I was thinking it was timing at first. Still could be the problem, but it's just not hooking the top thread. I've tried several needles, and moved the needle as far to the right as it will go. Operation manual says to use "needle system 332 L" and "left-torsion" thread???? Oh, the manual is available still in PDF on Adler's web site. Adler 30. And shoesystemsplus has a .BMP file of the exploded view with part numbers. I can email these to anyone that needs them.

Anyway, the timing is adjusted by two screws. Don't disassemble anything if you don't absolutely need to. A fella at a shoe repair shop showed the screws to me on his 30-1, and how to adjust the timing, although I still might not have it right.

If you're not familiar with setting up a sewing machine in general (or patcher in this case), it will eliminate a LOT of frustration to take it to an expert. Let them know what you plan to stitch, and he/she can have it set up exactly how you need it. The info you gain from talking to someone that's in the business can completely outweigh the cost of a repair or adjustment. I design and fabricate lots of things, but trust me on this one! There's a reason even engineers say "runs like a sewing machine!" when they're happy with some type of machinery.

On mine the take-up lever cuts the thread, the top thread tension seems way too high (even with the adjusting nut barely holding on), and the bobbin shuttle rarely hooks the thread off the needle. So I'll be taking mine in next week. I'll post back with the results and hopefully a report on what was adjusted.

I can't wait to actually stitch with it. It's been a great hole puncher so far.

My presser foot spring has about the same arc. And even at the lightest setting, it makes a pair of tracks along the stitch line (line of holes thus far). However, it doesn't feel like too much pressure, just to aggressive a foot. I think I'll just machine a new foot for working with the finished side of leather.

If anyone with a nicely running 30-1 could please post a picture or two showing their timing, I'm sure lots of us would appreciate it.

[CowboyBob]

One thing to check is the spring on the needlebar,lower the bar all the way down & look underneath the head casting where it comes out & you'll see a flat spot there w/a flat spring on it,this spring is supposed to be seated against the needlebar & pinches the thread preventing it from being pushed backwards when the needle goes in the leather.

This spring doesn't cost alot either,the hardest part is getting the pin out of the top of the needlebar to change it.

MikTigger,you say your thread breaks @ the t/u lever,1st what size thread are you using?Is there any grooves worn in it?

[MikTigger]

Sewmun, the thread I'm using is "Rice's 1oz nylon Machine Twist D/E". This is what was with the machine when I got it. I've also tried "Coats Extra Strong, Dual Duty Plus, Button Craft" (just because I had several colors). And I tried some heavy thread that came in a hand sewing awl ("The Speedy Stitcher"), but I was holding the spool in one hand rather than feeding it through it's proper course. Thinking the top thread tensioner was already tight on the smaller thread.

Although I've sewn fabrics on a home model (Singer 413 Stylist, 252 Fashion Mate, and a Husqvarna 118(?)) I'm new to all this, so bear with me. I don't see any other indication of thread size on the spools I have, but I noticed on this forum, there are designations with 3-digit sizing. I haven't done that research yet, so I don't know what else I can say there.

The needles I have are Weltmarke 332 100/6 (on the package) and on the shank is imprinted Lammertz 160. It is a large round needle, with only a very slight scallop above the eye. In the machine when I got it was a GB 120. A very cool needle, as it has a twist to the flattened point which makes my (hand) stitches lay all in the same direction. It is smaller than the 332, and has a more defined scallop above the eye.

Ginny, I took my presser foot leaf spring off and from a flat surface, it measures 5/16" to the top, 3/16" to the underside. (eyeing it, I couldn't find my calipers) At it's lightest setting, it still leaves marks on the 4-5oz veg tan leather, though there is hardly any pressure. When I take mine to the local guy here, I'll see what he says about how it feels. You said you were going to Charleston, SC? I'm in Columbia. The guy I'll be taking mine to knows these machines well. Tommy Lightner (sp?).

Many thanks everyone for the replies! I am encouraged by all of what I've seen on this forum. My son is getting more interested as well. Oh, the projects we've thought up!

Mik

[shoepatcher]

Hawgman,

I have original Adler bobbin winders for $99.00 plus shipping. what color is your machine?

shoepatcher

<br />This post has been extremly informative.  Great job.<br />I have an Adler 30-1 also and am looking for a bobbin winder.<br />Anyone have a clue where to find this little jewel.<br />I looked on the site that Trox suggested but my German is a little rusty.<br />

<br /><br /><br />

[Trox]

Ok Tor I am waiting with much anticipation. Sounds like I need to come to Norway to look for some bargins. What a trip that would be.

Hawgman!

25 Nov 10.08 Norway Time

I`m on my way to the post office! I send it as a letter free of charge. (Cost only 6 USD)

Tor