crissy Report post Posted November 14, 2009 hello leather community, I would like to start with a giant thank you for all the warmth and respect shown on this site making the introduction to leather craft fun and inspiring! I am going to beat on this horse a little about finishes. I have been using resolene as a resist and finish but honestly I am not happy with the out come as the dye bleeds thru when I test it with water and I have read in the past post about this being a common issue. what I would like a bit more clarification on is the bees natural finish, bees rtc, it seems these two are able to stop the dye/color from bleeding onto clothes or skin like for belts and cuffs. so is it the rtc that I need or the bees natural wax finish. a few of my projects are going to wet environments although I simply don't want bleeding no matter what the conditions.... and then there is the simple function of body sweat from the wearer. when my projects are dry the dye (feibings professional oil dye) will stay put after atom wax, or mink oil. or resolene but I am having a hell of a time keeping in the dye once I splash a little water on it. I have gone far back in the archives to read on this topic and I have still one question how can I keep the dye in the leather once the water hits it. I understand about the lacquer finishes being an option but I think I am more interested in a wax finish as I understand better the flexibility and barrier abilities of wax much better then lacquer I will apologize now for the redundancies but I am frustrated and I just have to beat on this to find a solution., thank you to anyone able to shine a big light on this helping to clarify the bee natural product right for the job from the first hand users. my steps are as follows: * carve * dry * oil * slick edges * dry * oil again * dry * antique or dye * dry * tankote * dry * burnish/finish edges * finish (the mystery solution) no bleeding??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted November 15, 2009 I would: * carve * dry * oil * slick edges *dye * burnish/finish edges * finish with RTC. Practice with the stuff, use it wet and more than you think you need. You only have a very short time to spread it out. * antique * tankote * dry The RTC is not as durable as neet laq, but it is good for a water based product. There is a learning curve. Most people try to be too neat ond work slowly, this does not work. Put it on wet, thick and fast. Work it around till it gets sticky and get away. Usually less than a minute. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinhopkins Report post Posted November 15, 2009 Hi... Very few finishes are waterproof... That RTC stuff is really pretty close... But it really takes a build up of several light coats to get the best effect. You might call the folks at Bee Natural... I'm sure they'd be happy to give you all the help they can. (nice folks) Neat Lac is maybe something that you ought to try. Once you learn how to use it, it really makes a nice finish. Again, it really needs to be thinned, and a couple of light coats are better than a heavy one. Usually, neat lac needs to be, (or should be) thinned almost right out of the can. Sheep wool is a good applicator. The problem with tan kote is that it really isn't very water resistant... and that's what you're putting on last. So, when water hits it, it will go right thru. After you've applied the tan kote, and it's dried, try a light coat of Neat lac, and see if that doesn't help. Do it on practice pc tho.... Happy experimenting! kevin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iwannabeacowboy Report post Posted November 15, 2009 kevin, what do you thin neat-lac with? charlie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crissy Report post Posted November 15, 2009 I would: * carve * dry * oil * slick edges *dye * burnish/finish edges * finish with RTC. Practice with the stuff, use it wet and more than you think you need. You only have a very short time to spread it out. * antique * tankote * dry The RTC is not as durable as neet laq, but it is good for a water based product. There is a learning curve. Most people try to be too neat ond work slowly, this does not work. Put it on wet, thick and fast. Work it around till it gets sticky and get away. Usually less than a minute. see I thought the rtc was a wax, I didn't realize it was water based... thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crissy Report post Posted November 15, 2009 Hi... Very few finishes are waterproof... That RTC stuff is really pretty close... But it really takes a build up of several light coats to get the best effect. You might call the folks at Bee Natural... I'm sure they'd be happy to give you all the help they can. (nice folks) Neat Lac is maybe something that you ought to try. Once you learn how to use it, it really makes a nice finish. Again, it really needs to be thinned, and a couple of light coats are better than a heavy one. Usually, neat lac needs to be, (or should be) thinned almost right out of the can. Sheep wool is a good applicator. The problem with tan kote is that it really isn't very water resistant... and that's what you're putting on last. So, when water hits it, it will go right thru. After you've applied the tan kote, and it's dried, try a light coat of Neat lac, and see if that doesn't help. Do it on practice pc tho.... Happy experimenting! kevin thank you it seems this is the direction I should take... I will give it a try to see if the dye stays put. crissy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MBOGO Report post Posted November 15, 2009 I want to follow this... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
outcast Report post Posted November 15, 2009 kevin, what do you thin neat-lac with? charlie good question! anyone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted November 15, 2009 Tandy does not produce (or have produced) Neat-Lac anymore. However LCI makes an identical product called Clear Lac, Kevin has it at Springfield, and Vandy has it at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. There is also a thinner for it called LCI Thinner (imagine that). When you use the thinner, it will reduce the gloss some. Prices? Clear Lac $16.99 quart Thinner $13.99 quart Those are usual retail. Art good question! anyone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
crissy Report post Posted November 15, 2009 Tandy does not produce (or have produced) Neat-Lac anymore. However LCI makes an identical product called Clear Lac, Kevin has it at Springfield, and Vandy has it at Sheridan Leather Outfitters. There is also a thinner for it called LCI Thinner (imagine that). When you use the thinner, it will reduce the gloss some. Prices? Clear Lac $16.99 quart Thinner $13.99 quart Those are usual retail. Art art, thank you ...... thank you to everyone! I am going for it! carve on! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted November 16, 2009 One thing some of ya should try is sno-seal. It has worked for me very well. Doing several thin coats with some heat to help the leather absorb it works great. Granted its not a perfect seal but it works probably on par with bee natural or picards. One thing I like about using the above mentioned items is that you can reaply them when necessary and not have to try and strip anything. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
