Latest step by step seat build

[Storm]

Today I finished the Phoenix and one of the koi fish and all of the remaining flowers.

So I hope to finish the carving tomorrow.  That could be pretty ambitious as I know that Thanksgiving company arrives tomorrow.

Let me know what you think and feel free to ask questions.

David Theobald

Wow David! This is just coming along so nice man! Like watching the progression. Sweet!!!

[David]

Thanks Storm,

I'm glad you are enjoying the progress.

Dave

[OdinUK]

Hi Dave, can you tell us how you keep the punched holes in a straight line as I cant see any reference line around the edge! Is it underneath?

V ery inspiring work!

Thanks.

[TroyS]

As always Dave, your attention to detail is outstanding! Truly a work of art!

[David]

Hi Dave, can you tell us how you keep the punched holes in a straight line as I cant see any reference line around the edge! Is it underneath?

V ery inspiring work!

Thanks.

Odin, Good question, there is no reference line, since I use this seat pan frequently, I have a pattern that locates all the holes, so they are traced onto the leathers individually.

Dave

[Storm]

Thanks for the question MadMax.  I hope this doesn't start some sort of firestorm.

One of the many things I've discovered that goes against conventional wisdom.  I know I'll catch heck for this so I'll tell you now that I'm not trying to start an argument or even a discussion.

It has been my experience that whether the leather drys out or not makes very little difference.  Tests have proven that the leather hardens with each drying.....by .003%.  That isn't enough to be noticeable by carvers.  This hardening accelerates after about a dozen dryings....but I'm finished long before then.

If I really want to keep the leather damp I simply turn the tooling board face down on my marble top workbench.

Try it.

Dave

David...I find that for the big ones I will also wrap it in Saran Wrap or something similar.

Storm

[David]

David...I find that for the big ones I will also wrap it in Saran Wrap or something similar.

Storm

I'm sure that works, Storm, I just don't work on any large bike seats. I do springer style solo seats exclusively.

Thanks for taking a look,

Dave

[Storm]

David...I find that for the big ones I will also wrap it in Saran Wrap or something similar.

Storm

I'm sure that works, Storm, I just don't work on any large bike seats.  I do springer style solo seats exclusively.

Thanks for taking a look,

Dave

Dave,

What I am also talking about are projects  that may take awhile to carve because of intricacy and so forth. I really do like where you are taking this one. You are going to get this puppy in more than a few publications.

Storm

[kytim]

Hey Dave I am confused. Do you let it dry out and then re wet it? How do you recase with the backing on it?

[David]

Hey Dave I am confused. Do you let it dry out and then re wet it? How do you recase with the backing on it?

Hey Tim,

I never case by submerging the leather. I spray my casing solution on, seems to work fine for me.

Thanks for taking a look.

Dave

[workingman]

Hey Tim,

I never case by submerging the leather. I spray my casing solution on, seems to work fine for me.

Thanks for taking a look.

Dave

Ok now I'm confused, What is casing and casing solution? Thanks Matt

[hidepounder]

Beautiful, David, as all your seats are! I think your designs are great!

Bobby

[TroyS]

I'm like Dave.

I never submerge my leather to case it. I do, however, run it under the bathtub spout with the hottest water my water heater can provide. It only takes about 15-20 minutes before I'm able to start molding the leather with any success. I don't cover mine with anything to retain the moisture. I simply spray it again tomorrow and it works great.

Troy

[David]

Ok now I'm confused, What is casing and casing solution? Thanks Matt

Hey Matt,

I guess the broadest defination of casing is dampening the leather to get it soft enough to begin transfering the design and also begin tooling.

I do it with several applications of casing solution. I've applied the solution with everything from a sponge to a spray bottle. I have used plain water to case for years, on this seat I added some Lexol to the water to help with conditioning the leather. It worked fine so far, I like the way the leather carved with this solution but, I'll withhold final judgement until it is completed.

I hope this helps

Dave

Beautiful, David, as all your seats are! I think your designs are great!

Bobby

WOW, coming from someone like Bobby, this is a tremendous boost for me. Thank you so much, I'm sure I've said about a hundred times, how much I admire your work.

Thanks again,

David Theobald

Edited November 28, 2009 by David

[Kustomizer]

Great work as always!!! Very cool design!

[David]

Sorry for the delay on this, Thanksgiving was a wonderful holiday, but took a lot of time away from the leather shop.

The seat tooling is complete for the front and rear leathers. It is time to put the seat together.

The rivet holes in my seat are a bit too large for the rivets that I use so I'm putting a washer over the hole to decrease the size. These washers are just super glued on the pan. Once the rivet is through them, the super glue is no longer needed to hold them.

Also if your pan has a badge or advertising riveted to it that will be covered by the leather, take it off. It will leave a lump under the leather that will be seen and it will create a wear spot on the leather.

With the washers in place the padding is attached oversize and trimmed down to size. I use a 40 year old electric knife that has been banished from the kitchen. I also put a bevel on the edge of the padding to facilitate forming the leather over the edge of the padding.

Dave

[David]

The seat back is now riveted to the pan.

With the back in place the front is tied on to the pan using artificial sinue from Tandy. I put a tie-down about every three holes to hold it as tight as possible. When starting to tie the seat together, put a tie-down at the front of the seat and then one at the rear, then one on the right side at the lowest point in the seat bend, then one on the left side at the lowest point in the seat bend. Then keep adding more tie-downs first in the front, then the back, then the right, then the left. This method will prevent the seat front from pulling in any one direction as you tie it down.

It is starting to look like a seat now and I can begin to lace the front leather to the back. I've pretty well covered that before.

I use 1/4" lace through the 1/8" holes. This gives a tightly packed appearance to the lace. I use only kangaroo lace, because I like to pull it very tight and calf skin breaks way too easy. My source is Jim Downey in Skull Valley, Arizona.

When the lacing is finished, don't forget to tap the lace all the way around with a mallet.....this will smooth everything out and prevent a "lumpy" looking edge to the seat, which ruins a seat in my opinion.

It is ready to add your finish now.

Dave

[terrahyd]

DAVID :THAT HAS REALY TURNED OUT WELL...I SIMPLY MUST LEARN DO THAT LACING ..AGAIN GREAT WORK ....THANKS FOR SHAIRING .....DOC.....

[Mike Craw]

Hey David!

As usual, simply beautiful work. When you re-case the leather, do you wet the whole thing, stamping and all, or only the area that's left to be stamped?

Thanks,

Mike

[David]

Hey David!

As usual, simply beautiful work. When you re-case the leather, do you wet the whole thing, stamping and all, or only the area that's left to be stamped?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike, if it has dryed completly, I'll re-wet the whole thing (to keep from getting water spots), but concentrate on the area to be reworked. Hope that makes sense,

Dave

DAVID :THAT HAS REALY TURNED OUT WELL...I SIMPLY MUST LEARN DO THAT LACING ..AGAIN GREAT WORK ....THANKS FOR SHAIRING .....DOC.....

Thanks Doc,

I appreciate the atta-boys, they really mean a lot. Makes me want to start another right away.

Dave

[Mike Craw]

It does David, thank you.

Mike

[Storm]

The seat back is now riveted to the pan.

With the back in place the front is tied on to the pan using artificial sinue from Tandy.  I put a tie-down about every three holes to hold it as tight as possible.  When starting to tie the seat together, put a tie-down at the front of the seat and then one at the rear, then one on the right side at the lowest point in the seat bend, then one on the left side at the lowest point in the seat bend.  Then keep adding more tie-downs first in the front, then the back, then the right, then the left.  This method will prevent the seat front from pulling in any one direction as you tie it down.

It is starting to look like a seat now and I can begin to lace the front leather to the back.  I've pretty well covered that before.

I use 1/4" lace through the 1/8" holes.  This gives a tightly packed appearance to the lace.  I use only kangaroo lace, because I like to pull it very tight and calf skin breaks way too easy.  My source is Jim Downey in Skull Valley, Arizona.

When the lacing is finished, don't forget to tap the lace all the way around with a mallet.....this will smooth everything out and prevent a "lumpy" looking edge to the seat, which ruins a seat in my opinion.

It is ready to add your finish now.

Dave

Dave....This seat is top notch and ought to turn a whole lot of heads. Primo lacing too!

Storm

[CitizenKate]

Can't get over the lacing... just beautiful! Oh, and the carving is alright, too. ("alright" = "fabulous")

Kate

[David]

Kate and Storm,

Thanks for the nice comments. The seat took a bit longer than I expected but I'll blame it on Thanksgiving.... it couldn't be the lazy seat maker.

Dave

[McJeep]

Wow ... all I can say is Wow

Oh and thanks for yet another chunk of knowledge to salt away for the day when I actually get to do some of these ;0)

Beautiful work guy <----- "Bravo!"

Edited December 1, 2009 by McJeep