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Posted

Sorry for the delay on this, Thanksgiving was a wonderful holiday, but took a lot of time away from the leather shop.

The seat tooling is complete for the front and rear leathers. It is time to put the seat together.

The rivet holes in my seat are a bit too large for the rivets that I use so I'm putting a washer over the hole to decrease the size. These washers are just super glued on the pan. Once the rivet is through them, the super glue is no longer needed to hold them.

Also if your pan has a badge or advertising riveted to it that will be covered by the leather, take it off. It will leave a lump under the leather that will be seen and it will create a wear spot on the leather.

With the washers in place the padding is attached oversize and trimmed down to size. I use a 40 year old electric knife that has been banished from the kitchen. I also put a bevel on the edge of the padding to facilitate forming the leather over the edge of the padding.

Dave

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Posted

The seat back is now riveted to the pan.

With the back in place the front is tied on to the pan using artificial sinue from Tandy. I put a tie-down about every three holes to hold it as tight as possible. When starting to tie the seat together, put a tie-down at the front of the seat and then one at the rear, then one on the right side at the lowest point in the seat bend, then one on the left side at the lowest point in the seat bend. Then keep adding more tie-downs first in the front, then the back, then the right, then the left. This method will prevent the seat front from pulling in any one direction as you tie it down.

It is starting to look like a seat now and I can begin to lace the front leather to the back. I've pretty well covered that before.

I use 1/4" lace through the 1/8" holes. This gives a tightly packed appearance to the lace. I use only kangaroo lace, because I like to pull it very tight and calf skin breaks way too easy. My source is Jim Downey in Skull Valley, Arizona.

When the lacing is finished, don't forget to tap the lace all the way around with a mallet.....this will smooth everything out and prevent a "lumpy" looking edge to the seat, which ruins a seat in my opinion.

It is ready to add your finish now.

Dave

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Posted

DAVID :THAT HAS REALY TURNED OUT WELL...I SIMPLY MUST LEARN DO THAT LACING ..AGAIN GREAT WORK ....THANKS FOR SHAIRING .....DOC.....

Posted

Hey David!

As usual, simply beautiful work. When you re-case the leather, do you wet the whole thing, stamping and all, or only the area that's left to be stamped?

Thanks,

Mike

My choice early in life was either to be a piano-player in a whorehouse or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference.

Harry S. Truman

Posted

Hey David!

As usual, simply beautiful work. When you re-case the leather, do you wet the whole thing, stamping and all, or only the area that's left to be stamped?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike, if it has dryed completly, I'll re-wet the whole thing (to keep from getting water spots), but concentrate on the area to be reworked. Hope that makes sense,

Dave

DAVID :THAT HAS REALY TURNED OUT WELL...I SIMPLY MUST LEARN DO THAT LACING ..AGAIN GREAT WORK ....THANKS FOR SHAIRING .....DOC.....

Thanks Doc,

I appreciate the atta-boys, they really mean a lot. Makes me want to start another right away.

Dave

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Posted

It does David, thank you.

Mike

My choice early in life was either to be a piano-player in a whorehouse or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference.

Harry S. Truman

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Posted

The seat back is now riveted to the pan.

With the back in place the front is tied on to the pan using artificial sinue from Tandy.  I put a tie-down about every three holes to hold it as tight as possible.  When starting to tie the seat together, put a tie-down at the front of the seat and then one at the rear, then one on the right side at the lowest point in the seat bend, then one on the left side at the lowest point in the seat bend.  Then keep adding more tie-downs first in the front, then the back, then the right, then the left.  This method will prevent the seat front from pulling in any one direction as you tie it down.

It is starting to look like a seat now and I can begin to lace the front leather to the back.  I've pretty well covered that before.

I use 1/4" lace through the 1/8" holes.  This gives a tightly packed appearance to the lace.  I use only kangaroo lace, because I like to pull it very tight and calf skin breaks way too easy.  My source is Jim Downey in Skull Valley, Arizona.

When the lacing is finished, don't forget to tap the lace all the way around with a mallet.....this will smooth everything out and prevent a "lumpy" looking edge to the seat, which ruins a seat in my opinion.

It is ready to add your finish now.

Dave

Dave....This seat is top notch and ought to turn a whole lot of heads. Primo lacing too!

Storm

Please keep in mind that unless I ask for anyones critique I do not want nor require same.

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Posted

Can't get over the lacing... just beautiful! Oh, and the carving is alright, too. ("alright" = "fabulous")

Kate

Posted

Kate and Storm,

Thanks for the nice comments. The seat took a bit longer than I expected but I'll blame it on Thanksgiving.... it couldn't be the lazy seat maker.

Dave

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Posted (edited)

Wow ... all I can say is Wow :)

Oh and thanks for yet another chunk of knowledge to salt away for the day when I actually get to do some of these ;0)

Beautiful work guy :clapping: <----- "Bravo!"

Edited by McJeep

"I gotta have more cowbell!" Cristopher Walken - SNL

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